subsoiler

1gr8bldr · Jun 8, 2012

I was wondering if the design of a subsoiler causes it to go down deep, kind of like a chisel. Or is it like any other implement that takes weight, or maybe a combination of the two. I took a tator plow, removed the plow and welded on a subsoiler foot. Without added weight, it does not want to go down. With added weight, it does OK. If a factory subsoiler does not go down all that well, then I should settle with what I have, but if they go down well by design, then I should study the angles and refab mine, or maybe buy one. When responding, please note that you have indeed used a subsoiler. Thanks for sharing your wisdom

T.P. · Jun 8, 2012

A well designed sub-soiler should pull itself to the bottom.

I have indeed pulled sub-soilers through at least 1000 miles of Ga hardpan.

T.P. · Jun 8, 2012

A sub-soiler has more forward point than a tater plow.

T.P. · Jun 8, 2012

OH... don't skimp on a sub-soiler, it's one implement that the "Tractor Supply" types won't cut it, unless you have a low hp tractor.

NE GA Pappy · Jun 8, 2012

as requested, I am indicating that I have indeed used a sub-soiler.

They are designed to pull themselves into the ground. The angle of a tater plow is much to straight to help it dig in very deeply.

1gr8bldr · Jun 8, 2012

I would like to find a Fred Cain. They have a shear bolt

T.P. · Jun 8, 2012

1gr8bldr said:
I would like to find a Fred Cain. They have a shear bolt

I took the low grade shear bolts out of mine and replace them with A325 bolts that won't shear. Everytime I would hit a hard spot it would shear the bolt. It would get annoying replacing bolts every 300 feet. Sheer bolts may work for others, but the don't for me.

Forest Grump · Jun 8, 2012

T.P. said:
OH... don't skimp on a sub-soiler, it's one implement that the "Tractor Supply" types won't cut it, unless you have a low hp tractor.

True dat.

1gr8bldr said:
I would like to find a Fred Cain. They have a shear bolt

Yes, get one with a shear bolt, by all means, or you will soon have a really hefty paper weight.

The angle is important, as well as the moisture in the soil, when subsoiling. You need to do it at just the right time: if the soil is too dry, it won't dig enough. If too wet, it won't shatter & trenches instead. (This will let water deeper, but does not resolve compaction, in fact, it may add to it).

Increasing the angle of attack, by shortening the top link, will make the subsoiler pull itself into the ground. Too much angle, & you are dragging the point behind you. Generally, in position, the vertical "bar" of a typical subsoiler like a Fred Cain or a TSC runs pretty much straight up & down, but when the point is up at the surface, the top leans toward the tractor. The point runs basically level, at depth, just below the hard pan layer, & you adjust it so it is doing that. Parabolics are different, better, need less horsepower & are much more expensive.

liv2bowhunt · Jun 8, 2012

look at the subsoilers that are built by tufline. i own a single shank and a double shank. if your dirt is dry and hard even subsoilers will bounce across the ground like lightweight plows and discs. if thats the case best thing you can do is scratch the ground and loosen it up as much as you can with a plow or disc and wait on mother nature to give you some rain. in response to t.p.'s post, a shear bolt is there for a reason to keep you from tearing up costly parts to your implement or worse damaging you tractor. if you are shearing bolts hitting hardpan then you need to slow down. subsoiling is not a speedy job. you should be running in first or second gear.

redlevel · Jun 8, 2012

This one is about 60 years old. Maybe older.

Below, in the first picture, I have subsoiled on about 60 inch centers, about 14-16 inches deep. Maybe a little deeper. The soil was perfect. It shattered the pan, and loosened the soil at least 8-10 inches on either side of the furrow. In the second picture, I have made a second pass over the field. I ran my wheels in the subsoil furrows I made originally, and subsoiled in the middles. This shattered any clods that I had pulled up, and didn't compact the soil much. The soil was left in a very mellow condition. I harrowed it to get a level, firm seedbed, and planted. The soil was mellow for two or three years afterward, needing only shallow tillage with an all purpose cultivator. Eventually, the pan will re-form and the subsoiler is needed again.

1gr8bldr · Jun 8, 2012

Always like pictures, Thanks

T.P. · Jun 9, 2012

liv2bowhunt said:
in response to t.p.'s post, a shear bolt is there for a reason to keep you from tearing up costly parts to your implement or worse damaging you tractor. if you are shearing bolts hitting hardpan then you need to slow down. subsoiling is not a speedy job. you should be running in first or second gear.

On my tractors in 2nd gear a person would have to mark a line on the ground to see if you were moving. If a person can't recognize when the tractor is lugging too much for the implement used, and he needs to slow down or pull up, then yes, he needs sheer bolts. I also said shear bolts are not "for me".

Like I said in my original post, I've pulled subsoilers 1000 miles or so and I haven't broken a tractor or subsoiler yet. I also have a subsoiler like the one redlevel posted, although mine is only about 50 years old, I recommend them if they can be found. Mine doesn't get used anymore because the shank is worn down to paper thin.

redlevel · Jun 9, 2012

I think a lot depends on the hp of the tractor. The subsoiler in my pictures will stall that tractor. If I were using a 100 hp tractor I might worry about breaking the ss.

It also helps if you have a good draft control with adjustable response. I wouldn't want to use just position control, although it can be done.

1gr8bldr · Jun 15, 2012

LOL, I could not remember where I left it. I have implements scattered all over my hunting lease and home. I was beginning to wonder if it fell off the trailer. LOL, I found it today. It was on the tractor. Someone had asked for a pic but since deleted it??

1gr8bldr · Jun 15, 2012

How does this angle compare to a factor subsoiler?

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