Leather(particularly snake) guys help...Project advice!! Snake Sling Complete! Pics added!

Railroader

Billy’s Security Guard.
The question is, what specific product do I need to glue a salt cured snake hide to a strip of leather to make a rifle sling.

The intent is to glue it securely, but flexible. Then I will hand run a whip stitch down the sides with artificial sinew...

I tried some Elmer's wood glue as an experiment and it failed miserably. Didn't even try to stick.

Here's what I'm working with...

IMG_20220417_152513852.jpg

I have scrubbed the skin with alcohol and worked it as smooth as I can, and done the strip of leather as well.

All clean, I just need to buy a product that will work. Would prefer a spray, if possible.

Pretty sure 3M carpet glue would work, maybe too well...
 

Nicodemus

The Recluse
Staff member
Use hide glue. You can either make your own from chopped up deer hooves and little pieces of rawhide, or you can cheat and make it from Knox unflavored gelatin.

Don`t follow the directions on the gelatin box. Mix 3 envelopes of the gelatin to 1/2 cup of cold water. Simmer over low heat until it turns to a gel. Apply while it is still warm and workable. This glue is very strong. Being a protein based glue it will bond well with other proteins such as skins and leather.

Or you can really cheat and buy Titebond hide glue. It works good too.


Don`t use one of your good cooking pots to make this glue.
 
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Railroader

Billy’s Security Guard.
Doing an experiment with some Titebond Ultimate I had in the shed...

Trying a couple small pieces, but it's looking good...
 

Anvil Head

Senior Member
DAP contact cement works well on leather and remains as flexible as the leather. I use it on all my leather work. As with most of the glues mentioned it's one shot so measure and try fit to get your moves right before you stick things together. Also - read the directions.
 

earlthegoat2

Senior Member
I was also going to suggest a quality contact cement like Barge, DAP, or Weldwood.

I guessed, as a Leatherworker, you were already familiar with Barge and their ilk.

Years ago, I used barge to glue a snake skin to a belt I was making. I laminated another piece of leather over the snake skin leaving as cutout window. I then stitched around the window.

Not a great example for you since the skin was stitched into place as well as cemented but the belt and snake skin has lasted 15 years and going strong for my dad.
 

Railroader

Billy’s Security Guard.
I was also going to suggest a quality contact cement like Barge, DAP, or Weldwood.

I guessed, as a Leatherworker, you were already familiar with Barge and their ilk.

Years ago, I used barge to glue a snake skin to a belt I was making. I laminated another piece of leather over the snake skin leaving as cutout window. I then stitched around the window.

Not a great example for you since the skin was stitched into place as well as cemented but the belt and snake skin has lasted 15 years and going strong for my dad.

I'm a hack leather worker at best... ?

And I only have one hide at the moment, so I thought I would seek counsel... ?
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
Contact cement or hide glue. As Nic mentioned, Knox gelatin makes great hide glue. I've used it to glue snakeskins to bows and other things. The contact cement will also work good.
 

Railroader

Billy’s Security Guard.
Thanks to @Anvil Head for the Dap Contact Cement suggestion. That wound up being the only product in town, and as well as it sticks, I think it's a winner.

So without further adooo...

IMG_20220418_191152000.jpg

I got the makings of a moccasin rifle sling!!! A little bit crooked, but that's how the snake coils I guess.

Pretty happy with it so far!

Thanks, Y'all!! ?
 

Anvil Head

Senior Member
Looks pretty darn good from here RxR. Snakes are a bit squiggley by nature anyway. If you try a test piece of the scrap skin on leather and try to peal it off after it's set for a couple of hours, you'll find it near impossible to remove without tearing it up (didn't read that in a book).
 

Railroader

Billy’s Security Guard.
Looks pretty darn good from here RxR. Snakes are a bit squiggley by nature anyway. If you try a test piece of the scrap skin on leather and try to peal it off after it's set for a couple of hours, you'll find it near impossible to remove without tearing it up (didn't read that in a book).

That's exactly what I did, AH...

The scrap I tested the Titebond Ultra on was pretty good, but it did peel off...

So I just slathered on some Dap, re glued it, mashed it flat and went out to eat. When we got back, I saw we had us a winner!
 

Railroader

Billy’s Security Guard.
Well, it's DONE! All I need now is the little Henry Single Shot .308.

Man, I 'bout went blind and crazy worrying about how to put ends on this sling...

And how did I want it to look?

And would it work at all?

Finally it hit me at work today to keep it simple, stupid, and just DO IT!

So I did. Still ain't measured nothing, still don't know what the heck I'm doing, still sitting cross legged on the man cave floor, like a big ol' kid...

Here it is...Along with the shell cuff.

IMG_20220419_182047267.jpg

Thank y'all again.
 

Doug B.

Senior Member
Well, it's DONE! All I need now is the little Henry Single Shot .308.

Man, I 'bout went blind and crazy worrying about how to put ends on this sling...

And how did I want it to look?

And would it work at all?

Finally it hit me at work today to keep it simple, stupid, and just DO IT!

So I did. Still ain't measured nothing, still don't know what the heck I'm doing, still sitting cross legged on the man cave floor, like a big ol' kid...

Here it is...Along with the shell cuff.

View attachment 1147372


Thank y'all again.
Yes sir! That turned out sweet! Great job! You have a great knack at designing these things!
 
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