Let's change the oil pressure sensor on the Z71

jdgator

Senior Member
Dashboard reads 0 oil pressure. I know this is not so. So let's pop the hood on the old Z71 and change the oil pressure sending unit.

Daughter asked why I don't bring this truck to a shop. Girlfriend asks why I don't buy a new truck. We can easily afford it. I explain that the truck and the DIY validates my continual purchase of tools. I was told I am a tool.

IMG_4865.JPG



The first step is to locate the oil pressure sender. It is located on the back of the engine block, up against the firewall. Difficult to visually locate. First, I used an air tool and blew around the area to remove dirt and debris before working. I don't want any additional gunk getting into the oil reservoir.

IMG_4834.jpg



Next, I descended the 7 levels of Purgatory and inserted myself in the engine well so I could reach the back of the block.

It was at this point that I realized that every tool that I needed was not within grasp. It also seems that every time I re-entered the engine well I was immediately summoned into the house to offer opinions on issues ranging from the reorganization of decorative pillows on the guest room bed to the evening's dinner menu selection.


IMG_4838.jpg



Next, I extirpated the sensor connector from the top of the oil sensor. This turned out to be the hardest part of the task. It's removal requires the depression of a small tang on the back of the sensor while simultaneously exerting significant upward force. Engine heat causes the plastic to expand and meld together. You need fingers the width and length of Twizzlers to reach and manipulate the tang but you also need the hand strength of a gorilla to wrest it free.

IMG_4835.jpg


To remove the oil pressure sensor a specialized socket is required. 1 and 1/16 I believe. I bought mine at a Harbor Freight Sale several years back and finally got around to using it. Like I said, I am a tool nut.

IMG_4836.jpg



First, I seated the socket firmly on the oil sensor. To the socket I affixed a wobble socket, 6 inch extension, and 3/8 ratchet wrench. It came out pretty easily.

IMG_4839.jpg



For the 2007-2013 Silverado model years there is a small screen seated below the oil sensor. It must be removed and replaced, as it eventually becomes clogged with sludge. (Thanks, AFM.) In the picture below, the screen is just visible.

IMG_4841.jpg



I used a pick set to remove the screen. I then used the pick set to clean my teeth, as I am a firm believer in good oral hygiene.

IMG_4843.jpg



Next, I took a break to visit to the parts store and the Circle K for a delicious, cold Polar Pop. I got home and played matchy-matchy, samey-samey with the new and old components.

IMG_4844.jpg


I wish I had pictures of installation but I was distracted by my daughter's weekly meltdown on the injustices of her not being allowed a TikTok account at the ripe old age of nine and a half. When installation was complete I changed the oil and oil filter as a precaution against any objects entering the engine.

The project total was just over 98 dollars for the replacement parts, supplies, and the Polar Pop. The total elapsed time was 3 hours, including part trip. This service procedure could have been completed in less than an hour if I was not repeatedly called upon to admire new coastal décor and prevent a child from pursuing her dreams of becoming a social media influencer.


Finally, good oil pressure readings:

IMG_4870.jpg

Cheers!
 
Last edited:

jdgator

Senior Member
I am presently working up the nerve to remove the differential so that I can remove the oil pan and change the oil pan gasket, the oil pickup tube gasket, and install the AFM deflector shield that is called out in the TSB. The engine has 225,000 miles and my only complaint is oil consumption.
 

sinclair1

Senior Member
Good job. I try and do all my own work, but I broke down and hired out a new garage spring install.
Could have done the job for $188 myself but now days staying off ladders and turning high torque springs is worth $500.
I still do my own truck maintenance but this days are winding down too!

I don’t trust these new age workers to do much.
 

jdgator

Senior Member
Good job. I try and do all my own work, but I broke down and hired out a new garage spring install.
Could have done the job for $188 myself but now days staying off ladders and turning high torque springs is worth $500.
I still do my own truck maintenance but this days are winding down too!

I don’t trust these new age workers to do much.

I get it. I won't let my father climb ladders or do heavy lifting. There is no sense in him risking injury.

On the other hand, I have a son and daughter who need to learn to repair and maintain things themselves. It is worth the trouble for me to do it myself because it gives me the opportunity to pass along some skills to them.
 

sinclair1

Senior Member
I get it. I won't let my father climb ladders or do heavy lifting. There is no sense in him risking injury.

On the other hand, I have a son and daughter who need to learn to repair and maintain things themselves. It is worth the trouble for me to do it myself because it gives me the opportunity to pass along some skills to them.
Time to detail it now ::ke: C4A394CA-ABE8-4FBA-A751-419E1B53CC19.jpeg
 

bullgator

Senior Member
Mechanic, I’m not!facepalm:
I’ll be at the dealership for a 9am appointment tomorrow. :banginghe
 

Doboy Dawg

Senior Member
I am presently working up the nerve to remove the differential so that I can remove the oil pan and change the oil pan gasket, the oil pickup tube gasket, and install the AFM deflector shield that is called out in the TSB. The engine has 225,000 miles and my only complaint is oil consumption.
It is actually easier to remove the engine than to remove the oil pan on the 4x4. With that mileage on it. I’d pull it, put new rings and bearings, and replace the camshaft and lifters and completely delete the AFM. The AFM will cause a lifter failure.IMG_5202.jpeg
 

basstrkr

Senior Member
Dashboard reads 0 oil pressure. I know this is not so. So let's pop the hood on the old Z71 and change the oil pressure sending unit.

Daughter asked why I don't bring this truck to a shop. Girlfriend asks why I don't buy a new truck. We can easily afford it. I explain that the truck and the DIY validates my continual purchase of tools. I was told I am a tool.

View attachment 1230835



The first step is to locate the oil pressure sender. It is located on the back of the engine block, up against the firewall. Difficult to visually locate. First, I used an air tool and blew around the area to remove dirt and debris before working. I don't want any additional gunk getting into the oil reservoir.

View attachment 1230836



Next, I descended the 7 levels of Purgatory and inserted myself in the engine well so I could reach the back of the block.

It was at this point that I realized that every tool that I needed was not within grasp. It also seems that every time I re-entered the engine well I was immediately summoned into the house to offer opinions on issues ranging from the reorganization of decorative pillows on the guest room bed to the evening's dinner menu selection.


View attachment 1230838



Next, I extirpated the sensor connector from the top of the oil sensor. This turned out to be the hardest part of the task. It's removal requires the depression of a small tang on the back of the sensor while simultaneously exerting significant upward force. Engine heat causes the plastic to expand and meld together. You need fingers the width and length of Twizzlers to reach and manipulate the tang but you also need the hand strength of a gorilla to wrest it free.

View attachment 1230842


To remove the oil pressure sensor a specialized socket is required. 1 and 1/16 I believe. I bought mine at a Harbor Freight Sale several years back and finally got around to using it. Like I said, I am a tool nut.

View attachment 1230843



First, I seated the socket firmly on the oil sensor. To the socket I affixed a wobble socket, 6 inch extension, and 3/8 ratchet wrench. It came out pretty easily.

View attachment 1230844



For the 2007-2013 Silverado model years there is a small screen seated below the oil sensor. It must be removed and replaced, as it eventually becomes clogged with sludge. (Thanks, AFM.) In the picture below, the screen is just visible.

View attachment 1230850



I used a pick set to remove the screen. I then used the pick set to clean my teeth, as I am a firm believer in good oral hygiene.

View attachment 1230851



Next, I took a break to visit to the parts store and the Circle K for a delicious, cold Polar Pop. I got home and played matchy-matchy, samey-samey with the new and old components.

View attachment 1230852


I wish I had pictures of installation but I was distracted by my daughter's weekly meltdown on the injustices of her not being allowed a TikTok account at the ripe old age of nine and a half. When installation was complete I changed the oil and oil filter as a precaution against any objects entering the engine.

The project total was just over 98 dollars for the replacement parts, supplies, and the Polar Pop. The total elapsed time was 3 hours, including part trip. This service procedure could have been completed in less than an hour if I was not repeatedly called upon to admire new coastal décor and prevent a child from pursuing her dreams of becoming a social media influencer.


Finally, good oil pressure readings:

View attachment 1230854

Cheers!
Good job JD.
My son and I have on 3 occasions used a smartphone camera to guide our tools in tight places. and like you we wuz just like surgeons.
 

fireman32

"Useless Billy" Fire Chief.
Good job, I also do a majority of my own mechanic work. Grew up poor with a decent ability to work on things. I have learned that you sometimes have to talk rough to things to get the job done.
This reminded me that it’s time for my youngest to rotate his tires.
 

sinclair1

Senior Member
Good job, I also do a majority of my own mechanic work. Grew up poor with a decent ability to work on things. I have learned that you sometimes have to talk rough to things to get the job done.
This reminded me that it’s time for my youngest to rotate his tires.
Back in the drinking days, I rated the job in beers. Plug change was a 6 pack job. Putting in a trans was a 30 pack.
I didn’t set out to talk rough at it, but it always seemed to happen.
 

fireman32

"Useless Billy" Fire Chief.
Back in the drinking days, I rated the job in beers. Plug change was a 6 pack job. Putting in a trans was a 30 pack.
I didn’t set out to talk rough at it, but it always seemed to happen.
I put an alternator on my wife’s Camry awhile back, it took some stern talk. One of those hidden bolts you can only get to with a swivel and 2 extensions. Why do engineers make bolts flat ended instead of pointed to help line up the threads. The space between the alternator and the frame is exactly the thickness of one flat hand. Not to mention the belt that requires you to be under the car and on top of the motor at the same time to get it around all of the pulleys. Told my bro in law sometimes I hate being cheap and knowing how to do things.
 

basshappy

BANNED
@jdgator I just read your post. The funniest post on GON I have read! Loved reading it. Thank you for taking a task and writing an adventure. Good stuff. Keep writing. Consider accumulating these adventures and publishing a fun read.

May luck, peace and strength be with you regarding your girl and Social Media. My youngest step daughter, age 15, continues to show me videos that, well, I have zero interest in watching. I humor her and watch them, but I keep thinking about her average grades in school (she has way more potential but lacks internal motivation), no job (if yer doing nothing meaningful with your time at least make bank), no ambition for real world things (just the dumbest videos on Social Media and checking her phone every 11 minutes for a digital feel good, but NO phone calls and actually speaking to anyone), and what a waste of life. Life is so live (hard I).if you live (soft i) it. And hers is passing by. Do everything you can short of destroying your bond to expose her to real life every day in any way.
 

oldfella1962

Senior Member
"It also seems that every time I re-entered the engine well I was immediately summoned into the house to offer opinions on issues ranging from the reorganization of decorative pillows on the guest room bed to the evening's dinner menu selection". I feel your pain! I don't even attempt to do any task that involves focus & attention while my wife is awake. This morning I had to replace my electric drier heating element and various fuses that can affect the element. It's a simple job, but not when you get interrupted of course.
 

Baroque Brass

Senior Member
My 93 Chevy 5.7 TBFI engine has been seeping coolant from the back of the intake manifold for quite some time, a common problem as I understand it. I was under the truck to change the oil last week and I saw coolant dripping steadily, so I guess it’s gotten worse and it’s time to fix it. I considered pulling the intake but I called the local shop that I trust and he said he’d do it for about $300. I’m not as young as I once was and staying bent over an engine compartment kills my back so I’ll let the local guy do it. And with my luck, I’d get it all put back together and it would still leak, if not worse than before. If I let the local shop do it, I can take it back to him if it still leaks. At least I got all the burned up wiring fixed and ol’ Red is roadworthy again. I love that old truck.
 

elfiii

Admin
Staff member
It is actually easier to remove the engine than to remove the oil pan on the 4x4. With that mileage on it. I’d pull it, put new rings and bearings, and replace the camshaft and lifters and completely delete the AFM. The AFM will cause a lifter failure.View attachment 1275809

DD is your man JD. He's got the shop, tools and know how. In Sinclair1 terms this sounds like a 2 case job so don't get the cheap stuff. :bounce:
 

M80

Useles Billy’s Spiritual Counselor
My 93 Chevy 5.7 TBFI engine has been seeping coolant from the back of the intake manifold for quite some time, a common problem as I understand it. I was under the truck to change the oil last week and I saw coolant dripping steadily, so I guess it’s gotten worse and it’s time to fix it. I considered pulling the intake but I called the local shop that I trust and he said he’d do it for about $300. I’m not as young as I once was and staying bent over an engine compartment kills my back so I’ll let the local guy do it. And with my luck, I’d get it all put back together and it would still leak, if not worse than before. If I let the local shop do it, I can take it back to him if it still leaks. At least I got all the burned up wiring fixed and ol’ Red is roadworthy again. I love that old truck.
$300 for labor is a good price for replacing Intake gaskets on your truck. If that quick disconnect snaps off and he has to drill it out and tap it you’ll be glad you didn’t do it yourself.
 

NE GA Pappy

Mr. Pappy
$300 for labor is a good price for replacing Intake gaskets on your truck. If that quick disconnect snaps off and he has to drill it out and tap it you’ll be glad you didn’t do it yourself.
that qd is probably where it is leaking. They are notorious for rotting off and leaking. When I owned a couple of NAPA stores, we kept 12 to 15 in stock at all times. It wasn't unusual to sell 8 to 10 a week
 

Baroque Brass

Senior Member
$300 for labor is a good price for replacing Intake gaskets on your truck. If that quick disconnect snaps off and he has to drill it out and tap it you’ll be glad you didn’t do it yourself.
What quick disconnect are you referring to? Im pretty sure that price was for parts and labor so I thought it was good, too. I was expecting more.
 
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