PVC pipe connection out of well with major leak

[Shadow11]

I've been hearing my well pump cut off and on the last couple weeks. I found a wet spot next to the well yesterday. I dug a hole/tunnel and found where it's coming from. See pics.

It looks like a hex head pvc adaptor of some sort, that connects to a metal fitting, that then goes into the well to the pitless adaptor.

I'm assuming the hex head pvc piece is threaded and screws onto the metal fitting.

The pvc fitting is glued with the pvc cement stuff onto the next piece of pvc.

How do I go about this? Thx

 

[Milkman]

Looks like it’s broken at the threads.

Cut the horizontal pipe at the bottom. Remove all the other piping and discard. That hex fitting is probably going to wring off when you try to thread it out.
If it does, You will probably have to work that threaded section out by either using a pipe extractor or by using a screwdriver and hammer to back it out CCW.

Then get new fittings, glue, and Teflon tape and build it back.

 

[NE GA Pappy]

what Milkman said, and when you go back, get Schedule 80 gray PVC fittings. They are the same size on the glue fittings, but have a thicker wall, so the ID is a bit smaller, but the fittings are much stronger

When those threads break off in the metal fitting, you can take a chisel, and score a line thru the fitting, then pry the plastic away from the metal threads

 

[tucker80]

1. Cut that male adaptor off at the back of the threads.
2. Take a hacksaw blade and make 2 relief cuts through the pvc male adaptor. 3. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry it out, a small set of channellocks can help once its loose. this will protect the threads on the brass (a miss lick on a chisel and the problem gets bigger.)
4. As said, use SCH80 at the threads. Be careful not to cross thread it or you'll be starting over.

I prefer a heavy coat of T+2 pipe dope when threading plastic to metal, the tape can add enough thickness to make the threads jump.
You can glue the SCH80 & SCH40 together. Rough that SCH80 up a little with some sand cloth. Use primer, then glue.
It's cooler out so give it a little extra time to cure before turning it back on.

 

[Artfuldodger]

X2 using a hacksaw blade to get the broken threaded part out. Just be careful to not cut into the metal threads. One cut might do it. You could extend a short galvanized nipple out of the metal fitting or whatever metal that fitting is. Then put a metal coupling on the nipple. Just to get out a bit before the PVC transition, that way if it breaks at a later date, you will not have to mess with that pump fitting again.
The reason for putting a metal coupling on the nipple is where you can then use a male PVC adapter. They are less likely to break compare to a female PVC adapter.
Then in the future if it breaks you can unscrew the nipple and work on it in a vise and not in a hole in the dirt.

 

[Shadow11]

Thanks fellas. I'm going to wait til Saturday, so that i can have all day to run back and forth to hardware store if need be. I'm keeping the pump off for the time being, except long enough to take shower.

 

[NE GA Pappy]

yep, you can damage the threads with a chisel. That is why I said to score a line with it. Don't hit it with a hammer, just push it thru the fitting 6 or 8 times to form a line for the fitting to crack on.

 

[Throwback]

Thanks fellas. I'm going to wait til Saturday, so that i can have all day to run back and forth to hardware store if need be. I'm keeping the pump off for the time being, except long enough to take shower.

Word of advice —have a plan B
Every time I wait until the weekend to do a project like that something BAD happens while I’m doing it and I either need “right now” help or parts I can only find at a local hardware store which is closed till Monday.

 

[basstrkr]

It would be a good idea to have a threaded galvanized fitting to run through (trace) the threads just in case you booger the threads getting the PVC out. And maybe get some pipe dope too.

 

[27metalman]

Eliminate that metal fitting if you can. Good chance those threads are rusted out. What doesn't turn will crush. We have soft water and it will eat up any metal other than stainless. Like someone above said, go back with sch 80 if you can. Not sure where you are located. Local hardware, Home Depot, and Lowes sometimes don't have it. You might need to go to your closest industrial pipe supply place. Lived in the country my whole life --- I have all the spare parts I need for a Sat/Sun project just in case. And every time I've needed it, it's on the weekend. LOL.

 

[Shadow11]

Too wet to mess with it today with all the rain we've had. I'm going to wait til Monday. I've got the day off and all the hardware stores/plumbing places should be open. I'm gonna wash some clothes/dishes/catch water tomorrow before I cut anything, lol. Thx for all the info!

 

[Shadow11]

It looks like this is close to what I'll be working with. Is it common for the well company/plumber to use glue/cement on the pvc threads? Would a heat gun help any?

 

[Batjack]

It looks like this is close to what I'll be working with. Is it common for the well company/plumber to use glue/cement on the pvc threads? Would a heat gun help any?
View attachment 1261596

All of the ones I know use pipe dope or thread tape on threads, never herd of anyone using pvc glue (cement) on threads. If it is glued I doubt a heat gun would do anything other than melt the pvc to a point that you couldn't get a grip on it with anything.

 

[Shadow11]

Like y'all said, it's broke at the threads. I took a chance at Lowe's early this morning, and brought home the only thing they had with threads. Too small. I think the howard brothers are out of bed now. Gonna go see what they have...

 

[Shadow11]

Found a fitting that fits at howard brothers hardware store. I got the pvc threads out. I probably boogered up the threads.

I don't feel real good about how it felt when I screwed it in. I used the dope in the pic below on the threads. It's been a about 2 hrs since I put the threaded fitting on.

The label doesn't give a dry time or anything. How long do y'all think I should wait?

 

[Milkman]

2 hours is plenty

 

[Pig Predator]

An hour at least for the glue. Pipe joint thread should be fine.

 

[Shadow11]

Well, I turned the pump on about 10 minutes ago. The tank is full, and I haven't seen a drop of water yet. Praise the Lord!

Thanks guys! I'll leave it the dirt out for a week or 2 and keep an eye on it.

 

[DannyW]

Well, I turned the pump on about 10 minutes ago. The tank is full, and I haven't seen a drop of water yet. Praise the Lord!

Thanks guys! I'll leave it the dirt out for a week or 2 and keep an eye on it.

Well played sir! (no pun intended)

 

[Spotlite]

Well, I turned the pump on about 10 minutes ago. The tank is full, and I haven't seen a drop of water yet. Praise the Lord!

Thanks guys! I'll leave it the dirt out for a week or 2 and keep an eye on it.

I think you’re fine. If it was going to leak it’d show up by now.

The next time you break it down I’d stick a 3 inch nipple in that brass fitting and then a coupling. That’ll give you a little pipe to hold on to and you won’t have to worry about pvc threads breaking off in that “Merrill” fitting.

If they break it’ll be in a coupling - cheaper and easier to replace.

Also - keep you a box full of parts. My nephew opened my well house door the other day to see if he can ring the door opening with his football…….fortunately I have fittings in my well house.