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when sighting in muzzleloader
- Thread starter rance56
- Start date
wera44
Member
I ran a wet and dry patch between shots, seemed to work good.
turky93
Senior Member
What kind of powder are you using?
DonArkie
Senior Member
I clean between every other shot, I run a fowling brush down then followed with a few clean patches. I use the Lead Sled for sighting in all my ML's Rifles, & Turkey Guns
Cknerr
Senior Member
hrumph, an inline...
anyway, sometimes using synthetic powders build up to a point and hit a steady state. Kinda odd I'll admit, but try it. No cleaning needed!
For the rest of us, you do need something wet. Along the sides the powder residue is kinda like fluffy black ceramic. If you use bore butter or any other "moisture stuff" it is mixed in with the ceramics. It usually does make it easier to scrape off. It also clumps very nicely when you knock it down with a patch or brush. I usually use a dry patch first to knock as much as possible out. Run the patch in and out, then shake the rifle up side down if you have a build up. You will be surprised at the junk that falls out.....uhoh, don't know so much about the in-line. This is for a conventional rifle. Probably not much different in your rifle. After that a wet patch then dry patch until it is clean. If I want to really clean it, keep using wet patches until it is clean, then dry patch. Since you are hunting with that rifle and not shooting matches, can I suggest you shoot it very clean. That is the way you will be shooting it in the woods, so at the range keep things as close as you can with what happens in the woods. A real pain the back side, but worth it.
To help scrub the bore and get the gunk out faster, there is no law saying you can't wrap a patch around the brass scrub brush. Pour solvent on it and go to work. Works for dry patches too - just be aware there will always be a little contamination from the brush.
Hope this helps,
Chris
anyway, sometimes using synthetic powders build up to a point and hit a steady state. Kinda odd I'll admit, but try it. No cleaning needed!
For the rest of us, you do need something wet. Along the sides the powder residue is kinda like fluffy black ceramic. If you use bore butter or any other "moisture stuff" it is mixed in with the ceramics. It usually does make it easier to scrape off. It also clumps very nicely when you knock it down with a patch or brush. I usually use a dry patch first to knock as much as possible out. Run the patch in and out, then shake the rifle up side down if you have a build up. You will be surprised at the junk that falls out.....uhoh, don't know so much about the in-line. This is for a conventional rifle. Probably not much different in your rifle. After that a wet patch then dry patch until it is clean. If I want to really clean it, keep using wet patches until it is clean, then dry patch. Since you are hunting with that rifle and not shooting matches, can I suggest you shoot it very clean. That is the way you will be shooting it in the woods, so at the range keep things as close as you can with what happens in the woods. A real pain the back side, but worth it.
To help scrub the bore and get the gunk out faster, there is no law saying you can't wrap a patch around the brass scrub brush. Pour solvent on it and go to work. Works for dry patches too - just be aware there will always be a little contamination from the brush.
Hope this helps,
Chris
Jim Thompson
Live From The Tree
if shooting 777 or pyrodex pellets or loose powder you need to do a FULL cleaning after a shooting session. while still at the range you will typically get your best accuracy and it will be easier to seat each bullet by running a wet patch (windex or spit work fine) and then a couple of dry patches between EACH shot, leaving the breech plug in.
if you shoot BH209 DO NOT SWAB BETWEEN shots. when you get home go ahead and clean like normal.
if you shoot BH209 DO NOT SWAB BETWEEN shots. when you get home go ahead and clean like normal.
I clean (with breech plug removal ) with EVERY shot unless I'm actually hunting. Unlike a centerfire rifle that can be left uncleaned all season long, you have to clean a muzzleloader to keep it from rusting. That means that each shot you take in the field on a deer is going to be from a perfectly clean barrel. That being the case, I feel that each shot off the bench needs to be made the exact same way. Yes, it is a pain and takes quite a while to work up loads and sight in but the results are worth it.
KLR650
Senior Member
I guess that leaves me the odd man out. At the range after each shot I blow down the bore and reload. Then after three shots I will run a a dry brush and shake out the crunchies followed by a patch w/BB then a couple strokes with a brush followed by a couple dry patches. At the end of a shooing day it gets the full treatment.
Logic being if I take a shot at a deer/bear I give at least 15min before trailing and may have a chance for a second animal and that will be from a fouled bore.
Logic being if I take a shot at a deer/bear I give at least 15min before trailing and may have a chance for a second animal and that will be from a fouled bore.
miles58
Banned yankee
I use Ultra Bore coat in all my rifles. In my M/Ls it makes the biggest difference, No crud ring and much easier cleaning, but nothing makes 777 load like BH-209 other than what JT said. I use windshield washer fluid instead of Windex though because it gets cold here.
