Advice on removing ebony fore end tip

[Baroque Brass]

I have an old Winchester model 70 that I want to refinish the stock on but I don’t know how to remove the ebony tip on the end of the stock. Any suggestions?

 

[Stroker]

If it's like most fore tips don't, they're glued on and difficult to keep lined up when glueing back on. Tape it off and strip, sand and stain the wood stock first then sand the fore tip with some 400 then 600 grit sand paper then finish everything with your choice of polyurethane. If your doing a oil finish on the stock you can still sand and poly the fore tip.

 

[Baroque Brass]

If it's like most fore tips don't, they're glued on and difficult to keep lined up when glueing back on. Tape it off and strip, sand and stain the wood stock first then sand the fore tip with some 400 then 600 grit sand paper then finish everything with your choice of polyurethane. If your doing a oil finish on the stock you can still sand and poly the fore tip.

Thanks, I’ve never stripped and refinished a stock. What type finish would you recommend? I also have to preserve the checkering as much as possible.

 

[Stroker]

Finish is a personnel thing. I like a oil finish, especially on my every day hunting rifles, easy to maintain or touch up when needed. Best stripper depends on your current finish. I've used mineral spirits, acetone, MEK, and Citristrip, all with good results, each has it's pros and cons depending upon your finish, do your research, and follow the directions. I find it best to start with the checkering first. Brass parts brushes, old tooth brushes, and a exacto knife will help remove the finish from the checkering, take your time in these areas for best results. If your going to be doing a lot of sanding tape off your checkering to help keep the sharp points and lines. Test strippers on small areas of the butt stock before attacking the whole stock. Get you some bone black off of the internet to mix(little goes a long way) with your stain or oil, it will make the grain really pop. Take your time, practice patience, and a lot of elbow grease will result in great results and a rewarding experience/product.

 

[nmurph]

...Test strippers on small areas of the butt stock before attacking the whole stock. Get you some bone black off of the internet to mix(little goes a long way) with your stain or oil, it will make the grain really pop. Take your time, practice patience, and a lot of elbow grease will result in great results and a rewarding experience/product.

Just what are we talking about here?

 

[Baroque Brass]

Finish is a personnel thing. I like a oil finish, especially on my every day hunting rifles, easy to maintain or touch up when needed. Best stripper depends on your current finish. I've used mineral spirits, acetone, MEK, and Citristrip, all with good results, each has it's pros and cons depending upon your finish, do your research, and follow the directions. I find it best to start with the checkering first. Brass parts brushes, old tooth brushes, and a exacto knife will help remove the finish from the checkering, take your time in these areas for best results. If your going to be doing a lot of sanding tape off your checkering to help keep the sharp points and lines. Test strippers on small areas of the butt stock before attacking the whole stock. Get you some bone black off of the internet to mix(little goes a long way) with your stain or oil, it will make the grain really pop. Take your time, practice patience, and a lot of elbow grease will result in great results and a rewarding experience/product.

I’ve hunted with this rifle since the 80s and it’s taken more deer than I can recall. I’ve retired it and want to make it more of a show piece. I’d like to replace the trigger guard and the floor plate too.

 

[Stroker]

Just what are we talking about here?

What part are you referring to?

I’ve hunted with this rifle since the 80s and it’s taken more deer than I can recall. I’ve retired it and want to make it more of a show piece. I’d like to replace the trigger guard and the floor plate too.

 

[doublebarrel]

Some tips have one or two dowels to keep them lined up. BB

 

[killerv]

why not leave it and refinish along with the rest of the stock, are you trying to keep it a different finish or something?

 

[Baroque Brass]

why not leave it and refinish along with the rest of the stock, are you trying to keep it a different finish or something?

It has varnish on it now. I’ll try to strip the varnish to restore original look.

 

[rosewood]

Just what are we talking about here?

I got a good laugh out of this one. Love it!

 

[rosewood]

Unless you have a checkering tool, you might want to keep the checkering taped up through the first few coats of poly or tru-oil, then remove the tape for the last coat over the checkering. I discovered this on one I did. If you put several coats of finish on the checkering, it rounds off the edges and looks and feels like junk.

I think I used citrus strip on the last one I did. Worked quite well. Put rubber gloves on to keep it off your hands.

Read that you can wet it and then warm it up with a hair dryer or something that will make the fine wood hairs stand up. Then sand that off as part of the sanding process.

Rosewood

 

[killerv]

It has varnish on it now. I’ll try to strip the varnish to restore original look.

citristrip is all I use, good stuff.

 

[Baroque Brass]

citristrip is all I use, good stuff.

I was planning to use that. I’m looking at Tru Oil for the finish, but I suspect it will be a soft finish. In one way, that’s ok since I don’t plan to hunt with the rifle, but may take it to the range occasionally. Is there any reason why after sanding and filling the stock, I can’t just use a Minwax stain and a satin polyurethane top coat for a more durable finish?

 

[Clemson]

Minwax Wipe On Poly dries hard and wears very well. I learned to use that in Gunsmithing school years ago.

 

[rosewood]

Minwax Wipe On Poly dries hard and wears very well. I learned to use that in Gunsmithing school years ago.

So, poly is recommended over Tru-oil? The poly is more durable? I had been using Tru-oil because I thought that was best for firearms. I may have to start using Poly. Does poly do well against gun oil and cleaners?

Thanks,

Rosewood

 

[Clemson]

Polyurethane finish is what the old gunmakers of the past century would have used had it been available. If you want a hard, water-resistant finish, Poly is it. If you want a finish that is easy to touch up, Tru-Oil is great. I use several different finishes depending on what the customer wants.

 

[rosewood]

Polyurethane finish is what the old gunmakers of the past century would have used had it been available. If you want a hard, water-resistant finish, Poly is it. If you want a finish that is easy to touch up, Tru-Oil is great. I use several different finishes depending on what the customer wants.

Good info.

 

[fi8shmasty]

Just cut it off and put what you want on it.

 

[Baroque Brass]

Just cut it off and put what you want on it.

I want to retain the ebony tip. I was only wanting to remove it for the stock refinishing process.