Barrel blueing question

I picked up a used gun that has several areas of rust on the barrel. I used steel wool to remove the rust. It was suggested to me to use Birchwood Casey Super Blue but on the bottle it says to confine the blueing to only the polished steel parts as it could affect the original blueing. How in the world can you possibly do that? Please help this first timer on this project.
 

Bobby Bigtime

Senior Member
I think what they are referring to is blotchy spots between the two areas. I haven't had it do anything to the original blue but depending on the original blue it can certainly produce a different tone or hue..... Thus the blotchy
 

killerv

Senior Member
Brownells classic rust blue is an option also. Pretty easy to do with a make shift steam chamber (large box tall enough for barreled action and humidifier).

But anyway, I don't know how close that super blue will be to original bluing, probably isn't going to match up anyway, but most call for lightly blending it in with some 0000 after the bluing takes. I've used the birchwood cold blue with pretty good results.
 

Stroker

Senior Member
I just used the blue remover on the whole barrel, degreased it and hit it with the blueing till I got the color I wanted. Always polished with 0000 steel wool between applications.
 

Big7

The Oracle
I just used the blue remover on the whole barrel, degreased it and hit it with the blueing till I got the color I wanted. Always polished with 0000 steel wool between applications.
And.. Make sure you get un'oiled steel (ferrous) wool.
Not oiled. Not Stainless.

Acetone after scrubbing, stoning out pits, blending.
Do ALL abrasives along the LENTH of the barrel. NOT around.
Then, 90% isopropyl alcohol. Not denatured.
Hydrogenous solvents are NOT your friend. (there is always some water, technically) 90% is good.. No petroleum either.

CLEAN, DRY, WHITE GLOVES all subsequent operations past acetone step. Very important.

PM me if you have questions. I've done it a bunch. ?
 
And.. Make sure you get un'oiled steel (ferrous) wool.
Not oiled. Not Stainless.

Acetone after scrubbing, stoning out pits, blending.
Do ALL abrasives along the LENTH of the barrel. NOT around.
Then, 90% isopropyl alcohol. Not denatured.
Hydrogenous solvents are NOT your friend. (there is always some water, technically) 90% is good.. No petroleum either.

CLEAN, DRY, WHITE GLOVES all subsequent operations past acetone step. Very important.

PM me if you have questions. I've done it a bunch. ?
Excellent info, thanks!
 

jglenn

Senior Member
If you use oxpho read the instructions provided by Brownells. Available on their website usually noted with the product itself. I've used dicropan IM for years as a cold blue, but it has gotten expensive for most folks
 

flintlock hunter

Senior Member
Stroker and Big 7 gave you a wealth of information on doing cold blue.
The only thing to add is that using a well saturated patch, and rubbing it in lightly until it appears to not get any darker, will do a great job. The cold blue will continue to darken the surface until it appears to be "drying" and milky. Using xxxx steel wool between applications makes for a good looking job.

Make sure you follow the instructions for completing the process. Blue is a controlled rust, which can under the right circumstance cause regular rusting. Most suggest rinsing with water, drying, and coating with a light, WD40 works, oil for two or three days running.
 

Jester896

Senior Clown
I remember a co-worker some 30 years ago getting an S&W reblued by a smith. He told him to rub it 2 times a day with WD-40 on a rag for a week. Man that pistol came out nice. Pretty sire it was tank done too.
 
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