Crankbaits 101: Your Go-To Guide

King.Of.Anglers.Jeremiah

Fishing ? Instructor!
Alright everyone, it's a little late, but I'm beginning the breakdown of cranking today. This will be a general information guide to crankbait fishing and how to use them in the key time and places to maximize their effectiveness. Later I will do an advanced cranking thread and go in depth with specifics and some other information to take your crankbait fishing to the next level. Here, I will go over what makes a crankbait a crankbait for those who don't know and are just learning, then I will discuss profiles, colors, action, crankbait types, gear selection, crankbait applications, and then finally a few basic techniques to use. However, I will not talk about lipless crankbaits because they're fished completely different and I will later do a thread all about them. So, let's get into it, there's a LOT to talk about on this subject!


What exactly IS a crankbait?
Crankbaits are a family of lures made of varying materials ranging from wood, plastic, some metals and other materials, in every shape and size from barely an inch long for crappie, panfish and trout to some that are several inches long and are trolled for saltwater game fish like King mackerel, wahoo, tuna, and even gag grouper. The ones we are most familiar with as bass anglers are those ranging from about 2-4 inches in length and from about 1/4oz to just over 1oz. Most crankbaits come with a diving bill or "lip" at the front of the bait. Depending on the shape and size of the bait and the lip the bait when reeled or "cranked" back in will dive down to a set depth with roll, shimmy, tight wiggle or wide wobble on the retrieve.

Profiles: Crankbaits come in all kinds of shapes. Some are shaped like shad, some like sunfish, some like crawfish, and even turtles or frogs. Some don't look like anything in particular but just look like something good to eat. Which one you choose varies depending on time, location and available forage items in the water you are fishing. As a general rule, you should do what the fly fishermen call "match the hatch" which means matching your lure to the natural available food items the fish are feeding on as accurately as possible. For example, if I'm fishing a small backyard pond, I know my odds of catching bass on a bluegill or sunfish pattern bait are pretty high. If I'm on a large reservoir like Lanier, a shad or herring pattern may be a better option. If it's winter time or early spring and fish are sluggish from cold water temperature and they're close to the bottom, I'm throwing a crawfish pattern.

Colors: Crankbaits come in arguably just as many colors and combinations as soft plastic baits do. Generally the best one for the job depends on water clarity, though there are exceptions. Keep in mind that as a rule, spotted bass, shoal bass and smallmouth all prefer bright and gaudy colored crankbaits and jerkbaits and are easily fired up by florescent patterns even in clear water. There are definitely times when more natural patterns work better, but those species tend to be so aggressive that colors like hot pink, orange, yellow, and especially chartreuse get their attention. This is also especially true on smaller fish. Larger ones normally want more natural looking baits. On the other hand, the opposite is often true for largemouth in that they mostly have preference for natural looking colors and are turned off by anything bright and gaudy unless they are aggressively feeding at certain times like prespawn, or when the water clarity is very low and they can't see as well.
We're going to break down color selection into categories to keep things simple when you visit the bait shop or looking online. There are about 5 you should really pay attention to. "Ghost" patterns, Shad patterns, sunfish/bream patterns, attractor patterns, and crawfish patterns.

Ghost colors: Ghost patterns like "ghost minnow" or "ghost sexy shad" are colors that actually are mostly see-through or clear in color, but with subtle accents and details to complete the look. These come into play almost exclusively in clear water situations. There is not a better fit for those finicky bass in that deep, rocky reservoir than a ghost pattern jerkbait or crankbait especially if clarity is beyond 5ft in depth.

Shad Patterns: these colors are self explanatory, as they look like any shad or herring. There are multiple variations, but these tend to be more opaque in color. Many of these feature a lot of white on them. Colors like "threadfin shad" or "sexy shad" or anything shiny or even chrome imitates a shad or herring extremely well. These come into play on lakes with high populations of shad or herring. Especially when bass are schooling.

Sunfish/Bream patterns: These look like any member of the sunfish family and imitate anything from bluegill to pumpkinseeds, green sunfish, redear sunfish and even crappies. They're great choices when the water is relatively clear or slightly stained and there isn't an abundance of shad or herring available. Great for ponds, creeks, small lakes and small sections of Rivers.

Crawfish patterns: There are dozens of crawfish patterns and they come in as many colors as crawfish do themselves. There are many craw patterns, the most popular of which arguably is the red craw pattern. These grew quite the reputation out in Texas on early spring bass so much so that "Texas craw" or "Texas red" became it's own color pattern. Early in the spring, a red crankbait is hard to beat wherever you live. Still though, when it comes to craw patterns, you can't go wrong with any green or brown craw pattern you find, as well as those with a little black on them. One highly successful crawfish crankbait, the rebel craw series, is actually shaped like a crawfish, and comes in several craw colors. Use crawfish crankbaits around any rocky cover where crawfish are known to live or any time fish aren't active and chasing baitfish. They're also great in streams and rivers.

Attractor patterns: These are those bright colored baits in hot orange, Chartreuse, electric blue, yellow, hot pink and other bright colors. They're best suited for dirty water or really aggressive fish. Blue over chartreuse is a known deadly pattern on smallmouth and spotted bass. Black over Chartreuse is a killer for largemouth in muddy or heavily stained water. These bright colors often work well for many other species too. Hot pink is great for not only smallmouth but also a known steelhead catcher. Orange and Chartreuse works well on musky and walleye. Crappies like a bright yellow too, and striper will smash a bright white or chartreuse and white so don't be surprised if you have some by catch while bass fishing with bright lures. But again, as a general rule, largemouth are only interested in these colors when the water is dirty. Reason being is that they can see it. Bass feed mostly by sight and a bright color helps them to find it.

Bonus category - Soft plastic colors: I was going to save this for the advanced cranking course, but a somewhat new thing companies are doing is making crankbaits in traditional soft plastic patterns now. You can find a "watermelon red" or "green pumpkin" or even "Junebug" crankbait now. They have a tendency to be better in clear water as they look more natural but they're a nice choice because it's something the fish often times have never seen before.

That's it for part one of this post, next I will go into different types of crankbaits and their applications, and then I will go into gear selection. When I finish, we'll discuss techniques for each type and locations to use them.
 

King.Of.Anglers.Jeremiah

Fishing ? Instructor!
Oh yeah, this one is an example of a soft plastic pattern crankbait. A strike king 6XD in "watermelon red" craw.rs (5).jpeg
 

King.Of.Anglers.Jeremiah

Fishing ? Instructor!
Just a warning that my wife is not happy with you.
I've been using your post as the reason I've been buying so much fishing gear lately.
And when my current order of three new rods arrives you will again be blamed.:cheers:
You know, I'm actually proud of that. My reasoning has always been you have to keep buying because half of it ends up snagged at the bottom of the lake anyway
 

Fletch_W

Banned
Professor,

I find myself rarely using crankbaits for the last decade or so. Reasons include:

-Trebles get mucked every cast
-Soft plastics on T-rig/C-rig/Weightless/Jerk/Wacky can cover most everythig a crankbait can
-Soft plastics in a million patterns can be had for a fraction of what a full array of crankbaits cost, and take up less tackle space
-One less rod/reel combo to buy/bring/take up space

That said, my PB LMB was taken on a rattletrap...

And that said, I later tied my PB LMB on a carolina rigged soft plastic...

Please don't kick me out of class. I am just looking for discussion, or enlightenment.
 

NoShoes

Member
When would you opt for a crank bait over soft plastic? For me, a Texas rugged worm is like a cold beer, good all day every day in every condition.
 

King.Of.Anglers.Jeremiah

Fishing ? Instructor!
Professor,

I find myself rarely using crankbaits for the last decade or so. Reasons include:

-Trebles get mucked every cast
-Soft plastics on T-rig/C-rig/Weightless/Jerk/Wacky can cover most everythig a crankbait can
-Soft plastics in a million patterns can be had for a fraction of what a full array of crankbaits cost, and take up less tackle space
-One less rod/reel combo to buy/bring/take up space

That said, my PB LMB was taken on a rattletrap...

And that said, I later tied my PB LMB on a carolina rigged soft plastic...

Please don't kick me out of class. I am just looking for discussion, or enlightenment.
Everyone has their own preferred methods for fishing, but the main difference between catching them on a crankbait, jerkbait, spinnerbait, chatterbait etc vs catching them on a worm, jig or other soft plastic is that when you're using a softbait you're more trying to fool the fish and you more acutely pick apart an area you're fishing.
When you're using crankbaits and the like you're triggering reaction strikes whether the fish are hungry or interested in your bait or not many times. More trying to catch them off guard and get them to lash out then trying to trick them. The only exception is a soft jerkbait like a fluke or caffeine shad because they can be fished aggressively.
Also if they're keying on baitfish your odds are better on a crankbait than a worm or jig. Both methods catch big fish, but the biggest bass are lazy and often times are more often caught on big, quiet slow moving baits like worms and jigs.
The stats for top 5 most effective baits for bass over 10lbs are worms first, then jigs and creature baits closely followed by spinnerbaits, and crankbaits.
Odds of breaking your PB are higher on that Texas or Carolina rig. The same stats also showed most trophy bass were caught in the pre spawn to post spawn period where reaction baits are the most deadly and softbaits and jigs outcompete them for trophy class fish most of the rest of the year so your experience does hold some weight.
Mine is somewhat similar. It's about 50/50 with bass over 5lbs for me but it's seasonal. Crankbaits do best for me personally spring and fall, then worms take the summer and winter, although both can be used effectively for both numbers and size year round.
 
Last edited:

King.Of.Anglers.Jeremiah

Fishing ? Instructor!
When would you opt for a crank bait over soft plastic? For me, a Texas rugged worm is like a cold beer, good all day every day in every condition.
I would use a crankbait over a worm in 3 situations primarily. First, when they're actively feeding on baitfish. If fish are aggressive and feeding I'll throw a reaction bait like a crankbait because it can be fished faster and imitates shad, bluegill and other small food fish better.
The second time would be in a tournament or any other situation when I'm limited on time. Crankbaits cover water quickly and you can run through an area in a hurry to find a spot where fish are in short order. Fishing a plastic bait takes much more time and most tournament anglers pick up the slower baits only AFTER they locate active fish on a fast moving bait like a crankbait or if they quit hitting it and get finicky.
Another time I would grab a crankbait over a worm is times when I'm covering more of a general area rather than a specific target. Most plastics like worms, jigs and creatures are slowly hopped, dragged or shaken in a specific spot or thrown at a specific target. Most of them are cover baits that are thrown directly at a dock, tree, brush pile or any vegetation, whereas the crankbait can be used to cover an entire area.
They can also be fished more effectively at greater depths and even trolled behind the kayak or boat just on the way to your spot or between spots. That said, worms are the #1 all time bass lure and they work anywhere, anytime under any conditions, but that's likewise for a handful of bass lures, crankbaits, spinnerbaits, jigs, included. They're All year round baits so long as you know to throw the right one in the right place when conditions call for it.
 
Last edited:

ghadarits

Senior Member
Professor,

I find myself rarely using crankbaits for the last decade or so. Reasons include:

-Trebles get mucked every cast
-Soft plastics on T-rig/C-rig/Weightless/Jerk/Wacky can cover most everythig a crankbait can
-Soft plastics in a million patterns can be had for a fraction of what a full array of crankbaits cost, and take up less tackle space
-One less rod/reel combo to buy/bring/take up space

That said, my PB LMB was taken on a rattletrap...

And that said, I later tied my PB LMB on a carolina rigged soft plastic...

Please don't kick me out of class. I am just looking for discussion, or enlightenment.

There are times that if we fished together in the same boat and you were fishing a soft plastic and I was fishing a hard bait I would catch 5 fish for your 1 and then on the other hand there are times that you would catch 5 to my 1 it all depends on the location and the moment your fishing that location. For example I was catching them on every other cast with a spro little jon 50 crankbait for about 30 minutes last Sunday and then that bite died so I picked up a bitsy bug jig with a swimming chunk trailer and commenced to wearing them out again for another 30 minutes. This was all happening on the same main lake point. Both baits shine at certain times you have to change with the location your fishing and what the fish are doing. if the fish are on shad I'm going with a crankbait first if they're keying on crawfish or some other insect or whatever on the bottom I'm going to fish a soft plastic that mimics whatever I think that is.
 
Last edited:

King.Of.Anglers.Jeremiah

Fishing ? Instructor!
There are times that if we fished together in the same boat and you were fishing a soft plastic and I was fishing a hard bait I would catch 5 fish for your 1 and then on the other hand there are times that you would catch 5 to my 1 it all depends on the location and the moment your fishing that location. For example I was catching them on every other cast with a spro little jon 50 crankbait for about 30 minutes last Sunday and then that bite died so I picked up a bitsy bug jig with a swimming chunk trailer and commenced to wearing them out again for another 30 minutes. This was all happening on the same main lake point. Both baits shine at certain times you have to change with the location your fishing and what the fish are doing. if the fish are on shad I'm going with a crankbait first if they're keying on crawfish or some other insect or whatever on the bottom I'm going to fish a soft plastic that mimics whatever I think that is.
Exactly the point! Hit it square on the head!
 
Top