Quick Question on Pedal Drive Kayaks

[JohnnyD]

I did a search on this and just didn't find what I was after, so apologies if it has been covered repeatedly. I'm leaning hard toward getting a pedal drive kayak because it just gives me the versatility I need bouncing between the spots I'd use it in.

Anyway, dumb question, if I pull the drive out to paddle around some shallow water during the cold days of duck season or sauger fishing time, how much water are we talking about getting up in the kayak itself due to paddling and bouncing around? I'm not too worried about that during summer fishing, but during the winter it becomes a thing I'll need to deal with. Appreciate the help.

 

[RedHills]

I did a search on this and just didn't find what I was after, so apologies if it has been covered repeatedly. I'm leaning hard toward getting a pedal drive kayak because it just gives me the versatility I need bouncing between the spots I'd use it in.

Anyway, dumb question, if I pull the drive out to paddle around some shallow water during the cold days of duck season or sauger fishing time, how much water are we talking about getting up in the kayak itself due to paddling and bouncing around? I'm not too worried about that during summer fishing, but during the winter it becomes a thing I'll need to deal with. Appreciate the help.

My experience is with a Native brand...none. my son has a bow mounted, quick mount trolling motor on his and removes the pedal mechanism. Pretty sure any brand performs the same way.
@Geffellz18

 

[Geffellz18]

My experience is with a Native brand...none. my son has a bow mounted, quick mount trolling motor on his and removes the pedal mechanism. Pretty sure any brand performs the same way.
@Geffellz18

I have never used a modern pedal drive, but have been around them a bit. I wouldn’t think removing the drive system would have any significant impact on water getting in to the boat on flat, minimal flow water depending on the load in the boat of course. I would think of it as one large scupper hole. I do believe most of the newer models have covers for the hole when not using the drive.
Just make sure you have a dedicated spot to place it on the boat when not in use. They are pretty bulky!

 

[RedHills]

Think of an old mullet skiff with the center motor well...same principle. Float water line is good bit below top of motor well cutout. Even on the yak, water would come in over the side about the same time it would flood the pedal well.

 

[JohnnyD]

I appreciate the input. That's a big help.

 

[weagle]

I bought a pedal drive for covering water on some of the bigger watershed lakes, but soon discovered that a lightweight trolling motor in the pedal drive hole is the way to go. This was one of my first test runs:

 

[HarryO45]

I use hobie and no water to speak of

 

[washercan4]

I also had a pelican catch hd110. It got a lot of water in the kayak with the drive in or out. It was great in the summer but a deal breaker for the winter. I believe the problem was capacity. The weight capacity was 350 lbs. and I weigh 240 lbs. However there could be a design problem as well. Where the drive goes through the kayak it is flush with the floor. Coupled with how close I was on capacity there was always water in it. I loved the kayak but had to sell it due to the issue. My advise is to get a kayak that has plenty of capacity (which can be difficult to figure out sometimes) and if possible get one that has a raised lip around where the drive goes through the kayak.

 

[Brifish]

I have a hobie outback, comes with a cartridge that fits in where the pedals go. Even without it it doesn’t get much water. Wind and chop will get you more wet.