Steve Hudson
Senior Member
This Saturday on The Tying Bench, we'll break out the epoxy and tie some Epoxy Ants!
Ants are everywhere -- millions and millions of 'em -- and it's no surprise that some end up in creeks and rivers where they're enthusiastically gobbled up by hungry trout!
The fact is that trout LOVE to eat ants. Fisheries biologists affirm that over and over.
A good ant imitation can make for a great day on the water, and the Epoxy Ant we'll tie this Saturday is one of most effective subsurface ant imitations you'll find.
This innovative ant uses an unusual material -- epoxy -- for the body. You'll learn how to create those epoxy bodies using either 5-minute epoxy or thick-formulation UV-cure epoxy. I'll show you how to use both, and the flies you create will be great for spring, summer and fall fishing.
Here's a list of the materials. Read it over carefully:
Materials we'll use:
For all versions:
Hook: Size 12 or 14 nymph hook, straight shank, 1XL. Smaller ants are possible (even as small as 16 or 18) but I suggest that you learn the technique on a larger size 12 or 14 version.
Thread: 6/0 thread. Note that when using clear epoxy without a colorant, the thread color will determine the body color.
Legs: Two or three turns of hackle - choose a suitably sized grizzly, black or brown hackle feather with suitable barb lengths and a thin central shaft.
...or...
...two or three turns of dubbed thread, wrapped and then teased out with a dubbing brush or dubbing needle. Use a coarse dubbing blend in black or brown.
Head cement: Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails, clear
AND:
For 5-minute epoxy body version:
Epoxy: 5-minute clear Devcon or Gorilla epoxy. Get the kind that comes in two parallel syringes (for easy and relatively precise mixing). This is available at most hardware stores and from some fly shops.
Colorant: Fabric paint, the kind that comes in those little plastic bottles. Black or red are top choices.
You'll also need:
1) A place to mix the epoxy. Try the bottom of a soda can, a small plastic pill cup, or even a stack of Post-it notes.
2) Something to mix with. A disposable plastic knife is ideal. A toothpick or popsicle stick can also work.
3) A toothpick or bodkin (needle tool) for precisely applying epoxy to the hook. If you use the bodkin, remember to wipe it clean after use!
For the UV-cure resin version with thread underbody:
UV-cure resin for defining body: "Thick" formula UV-cure resin. I'll be using Solarez "Thick, Hard Formula." Thin formulations are more difficult to use in this application. Thick formulations are definitely recommended. UV-cure resin for fly tying should be available from your fly shop. You can use "clear" and allow the thread base to determine the body color, or you can use colored resin (black is the most popular color).
You'll also need a bodkin (needle tool) or a toothpick for precisely positioning the resin on the hook (prior to curing, of course).
Don't forget that you must have a UV light source to cure the UV resin!
Some thoughts on the tools you use when tying these flies:
1) A rotary vise makes it much easier to tie epoxy-body flies, since such a vise allows you to rotate the fly and better control the flow of and sag of the resin or epoxy as it cures.
If you don't have a rotary vise, use a set of hemostats to hold the hook while you apply the resin or epoxy. You can then manipulate the hemostats to control the sag and flow as the material cures.
2) After adding the legs (hackle or dubbing), you will tie your finishing knot between the ant's body segments. If you're using a half hitch to secure your thread, you'll need a tool that allows you to reach overthe front body segment to drop the thread where you want it to go. A homemade ballpoint pen barrel half hitch tool does the job nicely; so do some large-bore metal half hitch tools.
3) Remember that you'll need a bodkin (needle) or toothpick to precisely place the epoxy or resin on the hook.
ZOOM Meeting info:
May 28 at 10 a.m. Eastern
Meeting ID: 823 1099 8829
Passcode: FlyTying28
(with two capitals and no spaces)
Ants are everywhere -- millions and millions of 'em -- and it's no surprise that some end up in creeks and rivers where they're enthusiastically gobbled up by hungry trout!
The fact is that trout LOVE to eat ants. Fisheries biologists affirm that over and over.
A good ant imitation can make for a great day on the water, and the Epoxy Ant we'll tie this Saturday is one of most effective subsurface ant imitations you'll find.
This innovative ant uses an unusual material -- epoxy -- for the body. You'll learn how to create those epoxy bodies using either 5-minute epoxy or thick-formulation UV-cure epoxy. I'll show you how to use both, and the flies you create will be great for spring, summer and fall fishing.
Here's a list of the materials. Read it over carefully:
Materials we'll use:
For all versions:
Hook: Size 12 or 14 nymph hook, straight shank, 1XL. Smaller ants are possible (even as small as 16 or 18) but I suggest that you learn the technique on a larger size 12 or 14 version.
Thread: 6/0 thread. Note that when using clear epoxy without a colorant, the thread color will determine the body color.
Legs: Two or three turns of hackle - choose a suitably sized grizzly, black or brown hackle feather with suitable barb lengths and a thin central shaft.
...or...
...two or three turns of dubbed thread, wrapped and then teased out with a dubbing brush or dubbing needle. Use a coarse dubbing blend in black or brown.
Head cement: Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails, clear
AND:
For 5-minute epoxy body version:
Epoxy: 5-minute clear Devcon or Gorilla epoxy. Get the kind that comes in two parallel syringes (for easy and relatively precise mixing). This is available at most hardware stores and from some fly shops.
Colorant: Fabric paint, the kind that comes in those little plastic bottles. Black or red are top choices.
You'll also need:
1) A place to mix the epoxy. Try the bottom of a soda can, a small plastic pill cup, or even a stack of Post-it notes.
2) Something to mix with. A disposable plastic knife is ideal. A toothpick or popsicle stick can also work.
3) A toothpick or bodkin (needle tool) for precisely applying epoxy to the hook. If you use the bodkin, remember to wipe it clean after use!
For the UV-cure resin version with thread underbody:
UV-cure resin for defining body: "Thick" formula UV-cure resin. I'll be using Solarez "Thick, Hard Formula." Thin formulations are more difficult to use in this application. Thick formulations are definitely recommended. UV-cure resin for fly tying should be available from your fly shop. You can use "clear" and allow the thread base to determine the body color, or you can use colored resin (black is the most popular color).
You'll also need a bodkin (needle tool) or a toothpick for precisely positioning the resin on the hook (prior to curing, of course).
Don't forget that you must have a UV light source to cure the UV resin!
Some thoughts on the tools you use when tying these flies:
1) A rotary vise makes it much easier to tie epoxy-body flies, since such a vise allows you to rotate the fly and better control the flow of and sag of the resin or epoxy as it cures.
If you don't have a rotary vise, use a set of hemostats to hold the hook while you apply the resin or epoxy. You can then manipulate the hemostats to control the sag and flow as the material cures.
2) After adding the legs (hackle or dubbing), you will tie your finishing knot between the ant's body segments. If you're using a half hitch to secure your thread, you'll need a tool that allows you to reach overthe front body segment to drop the thread where you want it to go. A homemade ballpoint pen barrel half hitch tool does the job nicely; so do some large-bore metal half hitch tools.
3) Remember that you'll need a bodkin (needle) or toothpick to precisely place the epoxy or resin on the hook.
ZOOM Meeting info:
May 28 at 10 a.m. Eastern
Meeting ID: 823 1099 8829
Passcode: FlyTying28
(with two capitals and no spaces)
