I was shooting easton legacy arrows in 600 spine off my 45 lb bear grizzly recurve - I probl dont pull back 28 inches with my open shooting stance.150 grain points, hits where I aim usually. I anchor high with three under apache style, it really falls out past about fifteen to eighteen yards. I shot a few same length big jim arrows with heavier 500 shafts. They actually hit higher, is it because they have four inch lower fletching and i have more aggressive helical fletching on the Eastons? Or is it also because the big jims are smaller diaamter? Thinking the big jims with the straight smaller fletching might be flatter for longer targets for 3d. I dont mind shooting to twenty yards, but hte idea of shooting to thirty yards on a 3D course concerns me (been shooting about nine months).
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Transition to Trad 3D (sorry did not mean oto post on 3D Thread)
- Thread starter psedna
- Start date
trad bow
wooden stick slinging driveler
Welcome to traditional archery. First let me state I know nothing about a compound bow or how to shoot one. So just bear with me as we try to figure it out. Sounds like a nock adjustment issue but I will try to explain how I do it.
Finding the right arrow setup that your bow likes takes a lot of tinkering with the arrow and the bow. First make sure the bow’s brace height is correctly adjusted. Also you didn’t mention the age of your bow so you can determine the correct string for bow. You may have already made it to this place in setting up your bow. I don’t set my nock height until after I find the right arrow for my bow.
Did you bare shaft test your arrows? Getting the arrows tuned to the bow starts here. Weight of the arrow has an effect on how the impact point changes Decide on your arrow material of choice and for right now stick with it until you get this bow shooting properly. Also try a couple different point weights to see if it changes your point impact. The length of the arrow can and does affect the flight of an arrow. I’ll start with an arrow that the charts determine where my starting point will be. I shoot a bare shaft to determine how to adjust the arrow which I do by cutting a quarter inch off the arrow then shoot the arrow again. If it flies like it should then I’ll do nock adjustments. Once all this is done and you’re satisfied with how the bow shoots, then record your brace height, your nock height, your arrow length, arrow material, and point weight. Put that arrow to the side and then set your other arrows up to exactly like the bare shaft arrow but add your feather choice(I prefer 4”).
Now assuming you have already did all this, then you can determine the answer to your question. With the aluminum arrows it seems your nock adjustment is a little bit high. With the carbon arrow do right opposite as it seems the nock point is low.
A buddy that can lay eyes on you shooting will help a lot though not necessary
Good shooting
Finding the right arrow setup that your bow likes takes a lot of tinkering with the arrow and the bow. First make sure the bow’s brace height is correctly adjusted. Also you didn’t mention the age of your bow so you can determine the correct string for bow. You may have already made it to this place in setting up your bow. I don’t set my nock height until after I find the right arrow for my bow.
Did you bare shaft test your arrows? Getting the arrows tuned to the bow starts here. Weight of the arrow has an effect on how the impact point changes Decide on your arrow material of choice and for right now stick with it until you get this bow shooting properly. Also try a couple different point weights to see if it changes your point impact. The length of the arrow can and does affect the flight of an arrow. I’ll start with an arrow that the charts determine where my starting point will be. I shoot a bare shaft to determine how to adjust the arrow which I do by cutting a quarter inch off the arrow then shoot the arrow again. If it flies like it should then I’ll do nock adjustments. Once all this is done and you’re satisfied with how the bow shoots, then record your brace height, your nock height, your arrow length, arrow material, and point weight. Put that arrow to the side and then set your other arrows up to exactly like the bare shaft arrow but add your feather choice(I prefer 4”).
Now assuming you have already did all this, then you can determine the answer to your question. With the aluminum arrows it seems your nock adjustment is a little bit high. With the carbon arrow do right opposite as it seems the nock point is low.
A buddy that can lay eyes on you shooting will help a lot though not necessary
Good shooting
The other thing that’s tricky when your newer to shooting stick bows is it’s likely to have inconsistency in your anchor point, hand and back tension, and release - which will show in inconsistency In arrow flight- especially with bare shafts. Even after you’ve been at it a long time it’s easy for all those things to be less than perfect.
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trad bow
wooden stick slinging driveler
Correct. Back tension to me is the key to consistency in one’s shooting.
splatek
UAEC
This question (?) seems all over the place.
If your goal is to shoot 30 for 3D then you need to tune a specific arrow for that. Could it also be your hunting arrow, sure, but I would venture to guess that a 3d arrow ought to be a little lighter for straight path
The trade off for a 3d arrow would be (imho) small gaps and straight (little arc) arrow flight. For hunting arrow you would want penetration. I’ve been on 3d courses where I could’ve hit the target at 30,40 etc but there was stuff in the way, a straighter arrow arc would’ve been great. But I was using my hunting arrows. Still haven’t found that arrow.
I guess what I’m saying is if you’re goal is long distance 3d a tune for that. Don’t try to fit a square peg thru a round hole. Go back to the drawing board.
Again just my opinion also being a noob to all this.
