Gun Bluing Not

Lostoutlaw

Senior Member
Is it true or has anyone tried?
Wrapping bacon around the barrel and metal of the Guns to leave sitting in the hot sun? suppose to Brown the barrel, Just curious if it works. I may have to PM Nic cause he shoots them Old Muskets
 
I think that anything wet and salty (like raw bacon) will brown a barrel. I believe I read that some people use seawater to brown barrels -- they just let it start rusting, and then keep carding off the rust until they get it where they want it. Then, they finish it off with a water displacing oil. I've never tried it, but it makes sense. Of course, you wouldn't get a blued finish without boiling off the rust.

I'm sure CK'n will probably chime in on this one as well.

AE
 

Nicodemus

The Recluse
Staff member
That`s a new one on me! I believe I`d eat the bacon, and take the gun to a good gunsmith!! :bounce:
 

CK'n

Senior Member
I'll chime in

mention his name and who should show up? :D don't have anything to add though. I would be nervous about the salt as Nicodemus mentioned. It would be difficult to flush out of the browning. The leaves, especially oak are acidic. That would speed things along and help keep things evenly damp. Would the tannins stain any? hmmmm Don't think I want the salt around.

Got a few old barrels laying around. Might have to try some of that "Myth Busters" mojo and add it to the article I am writing on slow rust bluing (will include cold bluing out of a bottle too).

The article I mentioned on another thread, - (diplomatic here) requested the former writer to cease and found another fellow to write the web-site's code. Maybe something besides talking/hot air will happen?

Got any other odd formulas I can try out? This could be interesting.

Chris
 

contender*

Senior Member
I would think the grease in the bacon would mess up a browning process, wouldn't it? After all browning is just a controlled rust. I was under the impression that any grease or oil would cause uneven browning or blueing.
I looked into setting up to do gunblue but decided after reading a few books I would probably be investigated by the FBI. All the chemicals you need to have they would think I was building a bomb or something.
I've played with the cold blue in the bottle and can't get a very nice finish with it.
CK, I'd be interested in any process you've found to get a decent finish with cold blue if you come across one.
 

CK'n

Senior Member
cold blueing...

can't say much about cold bluing yet. Still playing around trying to get it consistent. Now if you want to discuss slow rust bluing....well, I can bring a glazed look to any one's eyes talking about that. The two are very different processes. I have expounded upon that too much I would suspect already.

So far I have found the cold bluing is really dark and seems to be tougher (when you follow directions) then factory bluing and most caustic bath type bluing too. Still having troubles with mottling. Might be a problem with getting the surface down to raw new naked iron (consistent material on surface) and making it oil/grease free. Some alloys may still mess things up anyway (I suspect) ....stay tuned!

Chris
 

Confederate_Jay

Senior Member
I discovered that with cold blueing if you apply the blue lightly with a piece of scotch brite it goes on a lot more evenly. Steel wool would probably work too if it didn't have oil in it.

My method is to completely strip/clean the barrel and of course degrease it, and then apply a coat of blue, stick it in the oven for a few minutes until it heats up and hazes over. Take it out and rinse in cold water and wipe with down with alcohol to remove any grease from your fingers and repeat the process. As the blue begins to deepen you have be gentle with the scotch brite or you can rub off some of what you have already applied. Just repeat the process until you acheive the color you want.

It's not a factory job but it will still look very nice.
 
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