do get a Good quality paint mask and wear it.. It goes on very thin compared to Durakote, so a little bit goes a long way. Practice a bit on smaller parts so you can get the feel for distance when spraying
prep is the big thing for any paint, so use the recommended 120 grit blasting media and keep it clean prior to application.. blow off any dust from the blasting. Acetone will help degrease it
we heat our parts a bit prior to aplication
after application we leave them hanging to dry for around 30 minutes before putting them in the heat box ..
When 1st applied the two part is very wet so we like to leave them hanging after spraying to let them dry a bit before handling them... keeps you from messing it up moving it over to the heat box( don't ask how I know...)
if you have an issue it comes off very easily while wet... after it dries and you cure it.. blasting is about the only way to get it off.
as you get some experience with it you can vary the amount of gloss in the finshed product by increasing the % of hardener a bit.
it will be pretty flat if you use the recommended ratio. as far as mixing the two parts we found syringes work well for getting the % correct.. you can get them in many sizes and they are cheap.
for the typical hunting rifle we use the Graphite black quite a bit
we plug both ends of any barrel prior to application.. Rubber plugs work well for the muzzle and fired case for the chamber end.
we have coated entire bolts with it but tend not to today.. Cerakote is a bit gritty so coating the entire bolt makes the action feel rough. we still coat the handles.
the one part air dry is also very tough and can be dried in your heat box as well. the black is very dull.
we get most of our black Cerakoat from Brownells or NIC directly for some of the odd colors not carried by most
be sure and clean your gun afterwards !!
let us know how it works for you
"Some folks are simply educated beyond their intelligence"