Hiking: Arkaquah to Blue Bluff, Chimneytop, Brasstown Bald (and hogs)

Woodshound

Member
Took the day off Friday and hiked the Arkaqua trail from Track Rock Gap to Brasstown Bald. I had heard it has spectacular winter views, I've put it off for a few years, and decided to knock it out before leaves come in and I have to wait several more months.

I had also planned to hike up Chimneytop and Blue Bluff, both short bushwhacks and on the Georgia 4000 list, and so arrived at dawn at the trail head on Track Rock Gap, and set out.

The first 1.6mi goes straight uphill, with a few switchbacks begrudgingly tacked on at the end - its brutal (and I'm in decent shape). Once you get to the top of Buzzard Roost Ridge, though, it becomes more standard rolling ups and downs like you see on other ridge trails. The winter views are fantastic and they are fantastic for almost the entire trail. Some truly spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. This is also the first place where you can see the tower on Brasstown. It looks very far from here.

Also notable - from the top of the ridge down to Low Gap, the forest floor had been rototilled (in some places, intensely so) by hogs. It looked maybe a few days old? A week? I scouted around a bit to check things out - to the south, overlooking Plott Cove, its either incredibly steep or impassible bluffs. There's a lot of blue lines draining into Arkaquah Creek but it'd be hard to get up and down there from the trail. The north side of the ridge slopes more gently towards fields, but is still rough going.

After Low Gap, I went up Blue Bluff to knock this off the GA 4000. If you ever have an interest in going up, do not do what I did, which was to bushwhack in from the west. It looks reasonable on topo but halfway up it becomes waves of boulders covered in moss, fenced in with rhodo. Instead, walk past Blue Bluff on the trail and go up the shoulder of the much nicer eastern ridge , where you will see a manway has been trodden down (at the spot on the trail nearest N34 52'26.5" / W83 50'23.0", walk uphill ten feet and look west/right). There's a rock cairn at the top and decent winter views.

Chimneytop was next. I found instructions from a few years ago to get to the Chimneytop unobstructed views by walking through the remains of the burn from the Chimneytop Fire. This works to get to a magnificent view - one of the best I've seen in the mountains - but the brush up there has recovered well and is growing back with a vengeance (and if you thought regular rhodo was bad, burned rhodo is its own special awful). There are thick canes, dense brush, deep moss that (as of Friday) require a machete to get to the high point slabs. However, just getting to the rocks in the burn is worth it. I will say, the approach is a climb over warm rocks with lots of cracks and crevices and feels pretty snakey. It was a bit early on Fri, but I'll bet you this place crawls later in the year.

I was disappointed that I couldn't get to the west chimneytop high point... and then immediately past the burn is a beautiful and obvious manway that takes you up there. I went up, hit the point, went to the higher crag and enjoyed those views, and walked back down. There was coyote scat on the rock faces.

Closer to the brasstown parking lot, there's a section of the trail that was damp, moist, and muddy. And full of hog prints. I stopped to get my bearings: Bald Creek has three little rivulets - the easternmost starts at the Brasstown Bald Parking area. I was standing just north of the westernmost rivulet (the center rivulet actually crosses the trail further east, but there was no hog sign there). Down the hill I went, scoping out the area - I found another hog print in a muddy dip about 50 yards down, so I suspect they came up that direction, but I was already exhausted and slightly behind the schedule I had set myself, so I moved on.

There were ten cars in the Brasstown parking lot. I saw two other groups of people on top. Air was clear and the views were fantastic. I saw three people on Arkaquah ... took 4.5hrs to get up, with extra bushwhacks and a bunch of time taking in the views from Chimneytop. 2.5 to get down.

Attached pics are from Chimneytop.

Anyone ever hunt the Brasstown wilderness (I found one thread here from a few years ago)? This is some rough country but I'm curious as to how far the hogs move around in here and if anyone's taken one ... I am going to check back in here next time I'm around. Its a brief hike down from the Brasstown parking area to the Bald Creek stretch of trail and now I'm kinda curious about it.
 

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northgeorgiasportsman

Moderator
Staff member
You were in my back yard! I know all the places you named and know them well. I've hiked that trail no fewer than 50 times over the years. Unfortunately, it's becoming too popular for it's own good. So many people are parking at Trackrock gap, there tearing up the shoulder of the road and making a real mess. There's only room for half a dozen cars, but some weekends there will be 20 or more lining the ditches. There's parking for 500 cars on the other end of the trail.
 

Woodshound

Member
You've got quite a backyard! Absolutely beautiful. I'm just guessing but the fact that Brasstown Bald is at the end of it probably creates a huge draw for weekend hero types... this kinda makes me sad, I had a remote and quiet experience (was the first car at Track Rock Gap) and its really a trail for some solitary time, IMO.

I will start at Brasstown next time because it avoids the 1.6 straight up that doesn't have any views.

There was a huge tree down on the north side of Blue Bluff, took out a chunk of trail where it hugs the gully under the big boulders. Someone put a rope there but it didn't matter, I slipped and slid down on my rear - if it isn't fixed, that feature oughta dissuade a few people.

Although that part of the trail is one of the things I love most about the N Ga mountains - it goes from sunny dry ridge to drippy, cool, dark boulder climb hugging the hill, back to a dry ridge again in 500 yards.

More pics attached! 5170 is the partial view from Blue Bluff. I think the mountain far in the distance in 5212 is Clingmans Dome.
 

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northgeorgiasportsman

Moderator
Staff member
The north side of Blue Bluff where it's drippy and cool can be very treacherous when it's been below freezing for several days. Several years ago, some friends and I rapelled the rock face on the west side. It's rough country, for sure.

I proposed to my wife on Chimney Top.
 

northgeorgiasportsman

Moderator
Staff member
More pics attached! 5170 is the partial view from Blue Bluff. I think the mountain far in the distance in 5212 is Clingmans Dome.

I don't think you could see Clingman's dome on a hazy day. Conditions have to be absolutely perfect to see it from the top of Brasstown Bald and they day you were there, there were several controlled burns going on in surrounding counties making it hazy.
 

Woodshound

Member
There certainly were a bunch of burns - there's one in the 5210 image. The sign at the top of Brasstown says that peak to the right of the smoke is Tray Mountain.

Chimneytop is a quite a place to propose! Well done, sir.

Updated my GA 4K list last night it looks like I'll be walking Wagon Train and then heading off trail on a long bushwhack. Ditto Jacks Knob south to the AT (I hiked it up to Brasstown last summer) and up a bunch of off-trail peaks. Any advice?
 

northgeorgiasportsman

Moderator
Staff member
There certainly were a bunch of burns - there's one in the 5210 image. The sign at the top of Brasstown says that peak to the right of the smoke is Tray Mountain.

Chimneytop is a quite a place to propose! Well done, sir.

Updated my GA 4K list last night it looks like I'll be walking Wagon Train and then heading off trail on a long bushwhack. Ditto Jacks Knob south to the AT (I hiked it up to Brasstown last summer) and up a bunch of off-trail peaks. Any advice?

Now's the time to do it. Leaves are off, snakes are denned up, and there are no hunters in the woods to bump into. I don't know all the 4k peaks, but I bet the Duncan Ridge trail and/or Coosa Backcountry trail would take you by at least a few.
 

Woodshound

Member
Interestingly, I was on the fence until the last minute w Arkaquah vs Coosa Backcountry... Coosa knocks off Coosa Bald and Slaughter Mountain. I chose Arkaquah after staring at the topos 'cause the winter views were too much to pass up.

Here's the list:
GA 4K

(if there's a term that's more laden with irony than 'short bushwhack', I don't know what it is)

I discovered this a while ago and noted that just in the course of hiking and trying to get into silly places to trout fish, I had gone over or near several of the peaks. Figured I may as well make it formal and hike over the rest.

Sadly, I live 1.5-2 two hours away from all the good stuff. I think I can knock off seven more between now and Ticks, Snakes, and Impassible Cane Season starts, but it'll take a few years to complete the whole thing.
 
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