Pull Behind Rotary Mower Question(s)!

[Bigbendgyrene]

Ok, QUICK bit of history... bought my place in 2013 and as part of the sale the owner left behind a 2007 John Deere 5425 tractor (81 engine hp, 65 hp pto) as well as a pull-behind MX10 rotary cutter with a cutting width of 126 inches. Both the tractor and cutter were operational but had seen some hard use. Fast forward to today and after hitting a few hog-rooted spots, knocking a few low stumps, etc, I'm looking at either repair #3 to the MX10 (think main drive shaft is slightly warped and one blade just got knocked off) OR am open to purchasing a new pull behind cutter.

So above shared, would GREATLY APPRECIATE thoughts on mower options/thoughts on whether MX10 is my best option or there are better pull behind cutters to consider.

Here's the specific on my needs. Mainly will be using the pull behind to cut 30 acres of fields a few times a year. I don't love throwing away money on diesel, so really prefer just to cut in early spring and then a few times more in the growing season, usually avoiding fawn drop time unitil mid-August, so grass and weeds can get pretty thick by that time. I will NOT be using the pull-behind to cut 4 acres of grass closest to house / use a zero-turn for that to have cleaner / nicer-looking turf cut. Here's a pic showing the property and acreage I'll be cutting.

NOT concerned with the fields looking pristine/ok with rough cut, and honestly would put robust, heavy build over cut quality.

ANY / ALL input from folks with ANY opinion on the matter / knowledgeable on alternatives, again be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[Canuck5]

Get rid of stumps first?

There's a few for sale down in your neck of the woods ...... you'll have one for (almost) spare parts? What's your budget?

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listin...-sale/list/manufacturer/john-deere/model/mx10

Sickle bar mowers have a lot more moving parts, but if you ever considered doing throw and mow seeding, this kind of mower would be ideal.

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listin...-sale/list/manufacturer/new-holland/model/451

Just some thoughts .......

 

[oops1]

That’s some spread. Congrats

 

[Bigbendgyrene]

Get rid of stumps first?
...
Sickle bar mowers have a lot more moving parts, but if you ever considered doing throw and mow seeding, this kind of mower would be ideal.

https://www.tractorhouse.com/listin...-sale/list/manufacturer/new-holland/model/451

Just some thoughts .......

Trust me, Canuck5, have taken care of the few stumps I've found. Hoping close to done on that count. Also have worked on the hog issue in 2 ways... first, not sure what they're called but for lack of proper terms I used "gauge blocks" to raise minimum height of the deck when in lowest position. Makes for slightly higher cutting, but also less digging into hidden rooting spots. That, and have been shooting every single pig I see immediately on sight whenever possible. No small task, as I've killed at least a dozen each of the past two years and neighbor who grows corn on his place has killed over 100 per year. No shortages of tasks to keep me busy, as to date I'm the only fella caring for my place. Approaching my mid-50s, knows it's just a matter of time before I'm going to have to line up some help.

And appreciate the sickle bar share! In addition to the mower issue, also using an old disc that was left at the place and have been weighing moving to no-till and or throw and mow for my food plots.

 

[Canuck5]

You can see how nicely a sickle bar mower lays down a swath of cutting ..... vs a bush hog that has a tendency to "pile" material. Just seems to be the right tool for a throw and mow job.

 

[davidhelmly]

BB, I can’t remember the model number but I use a 15’ Rhino bat wing almost daily at work and absolutely love it, it cuts great and it’s a beast of a machine.

 

[jdtractor1622]

no mower is going to like the rough terrain. MX10 is a great mower and gives a good cut. An HX10 is a little heavier duty and should cost 12-1400 more than an MX..

 

[BriarPatch99]

Replacing the bent shaft or repairing would be much cheaper than any kind new mower ....

We have a place here that will replace the shaft tubing keeping the same U joints .... much cheaper than a whole shaft ...

The MX 10 uses a "stump jumper" blade holder .... replacing the blade should be pretty simple ...

I have replaced the whole jumper before ... it is work but nothing out the way .... the blade should take very little time ... torch the bolt off( You need to replace it anyway as it is recommended to change each time the blade is replaced) replace bolt and blade...

The MX 10 is called a medium duty cutter ....it is still pretty tough ....any place that is to tough for MX10 would certainly be way too tough for a sickle bar mower.

 

[sleepr71]

Have You raised it up and looked under it to see if the blade is still on it? Sometimes they will spin around and get jammed up against the stump jumper and make the whole thing get out of balance. Even after hitting big rocks and stumps… I’ve never broken a blade or lost one.! Nor have I ever bent a drive shaft. The slip clutch is supposed to be the weak point and let it slip instead of twisting/bending/breaking other part$$$ Is the slip clutch rusted up/froze up? Either way..I agree with BriarPatch… IF it needs a blade…put another blade + bolt/nut on it if you have to, and fix the driveshaft. Can the driveshaft be straightened? Is it wobbling(egg shaped)? After addressing those things… Make sure the gearboxes are full of oil & everything is greased and sharp and go back to cutting! I’m just wondering how the little 5425 handles that 10 ft mower? Sounds like a lot of mower for 65 PTO hp. I’d think a 7-8’ mower would be all that tractor wanted(in thick stuff anyway)!

 

[BriarPatch99]

Have You raised it up and looked under it to see if the blade is still on it? Sometimes they will spin around and get jammed up against the stump jumper and make the whole thing get out of balance. Even after hitting big rocks and stumps… I’ve never broken a blade or lost one.! Nor have I ever bent a drive shaft. The slip clutch is supposed to be the weak point and let it slip instead of twisting/bending/breaking other part$$$ Is the slip clutch rusted up/froze up? Either way..I agree with BriarPatch… IF it needs a blade…put another blade + bolt/nut on it if you have to, and fix the driveshaft. Can the driveshaft be straightened? Is it wobbling(egg shaped)? After addressing those things… Make sure the gearboxes are full of oil & everything is greased and sharp and go back to cutting! I’m just wondering how the little 5425 handles that 10 ft mower? Sounds like a lot of mower for 65 PTO hp. I’d think a 7-8’ mower would be all that tractor wanted(in thick stuff anyway)!

I got a good feeling that 5425 struggled toting that mower in heavy stuff...

We run a JD 5625 (82 PTO hp) 99 hp .....with a heavy 7' Brown mower and you can load it in a hurry with thick stuff .... even two rows cotton stalks let you know they are there...

While I guess it would be better to under power a mower rather than over power it ....

Never broke or lost a blade ...but did have one crack in the bolt hole ....

Somehow we got a set blades that was about inch too long .... But the torch cleared that up quick ...

 

[aabradley82]

Buy new profile for the shaft and replace the blade. 5425 will handle a 10’ just fine until you get into heavy work. If you keep the blades sharp it’ll cut the lawn pretty good, especially if you keep it cut often so that your “clipping” instead of hogging it all at once.

 

[doomtrpr_z71]

Have you considered chemical mowing instead?

 

[elfiii]

Replacing the bent shaft or repairing would be much cheaper than any kind new mower ....

This. ^ I just priced new 5' mowers. Holy cow! is all I got to say about that. I got mine fixed instead.

 

[NE GA Pappy]

A good used 10ft mower will set up back somewhere in the 7000 to 9000 range, depending on the brand and rating. It would be much cheaper to fix what you have

 

[Bigbendgyrene]

Replacing the bent shaft or repairing would be much cheaper than any kind new mower ....

The MX 10 uses a "stump jumper" blade holder .... replacing the blade should be pretty simple ...I have replaced the whole jumper before ... it is work but nothing out the way ....

The MX 10 is called a medium duty cutter ....it is still pretty tough ....any place that is to tough for MX10 would certainly be way too tough for a sickle bar mower.

MANY thanks for the reply, BriarPatch99 and everyone else who has replied. Been crazy busy so just now getting some computer time.

The MX10 has actually served me pretty well outside of running up on hog-rooted spots and a couple of stumps on my place (in 8 years owning the place, just found two of them the hard way). Nowadays I run the mower a few inches higher than I first did and since lifting the min-cut height I haven't dug into any rooted spots.

As for matching well with the 5425, as long as I don't race through thicker spots it handles the load relatively well / gauge readings stay well within limit.

I'll add I didn't word my original post well at all in saying "one blade got knocked off". What actually has happened when I've hit anything is that one of the two blade pan assemblies has dropped. Guessing that this is by design to prevent more significant damage to the entire rotary cutting system. So, the blades are actually ok / still attached to the pan, it's just that one of the pans dropped. Pic below shows the dropped pan after I loaded it up yesterday (got a bet wet thanks to TS Fred).



In the past I've been busy enough with other tasks I haven't tried figuring out how big of a job it is repairing/replacing the pan assembly. When it comes to mechanics I do jobs I can quickly/easily do such as replace filters, belts on belt-driven equipment, bleed lines, etc, but haven't tried tackling much beyond that, again, in large part due to time and lack of equipment (such as a good torch).

Deck's still in half-decent shape so looking to have the Thomasville AgPro pick the deck up sometime this week for a repair estimate. Assuming the repair estimate is well under the price of a new cutter I'll likely go with repair, not only to save a few bucks for now but also to avoid putting wear on a new one while I still think I've got some years of wear the older deck hopefully can handle.

 

[BriarPatch99]

"If" I am seeing this photo correctly ...you have wrung the gear box shaft off ....

Depending on if it did other damage to the gear box ....if it is just the shaft ... it can be replaced ....along with the lower bearings and seals ....

If it damaged the gear box ....replacing will still be much cheaper than buying a whole mower ....

Believe it or not you can get the gear set from Amazon for about $600 .... that is not going to count labor .... but JD price for the lower gear shaft itself is $1500+

The only technical ordeal in replacing is getting the correct shims so the gear teeth work as they should ....

 

[NE GA Pappy]

YEP! broke that shaft right off. You will have to get a new shaft, bearings and seals, and rebuild that box.

Take it apart and get the bearing numbers and the seal number. You can go to a bearing house and get them much cheaper that JD, and they will be just as good. The shaft may be a different matter. You might HAVE to get it at JD, but I would shop it around.

Good chance to look at your gearing while you are in the box too. If they are chipped up or cracked, you are going to have to replace them. If not, I would put them back in and set the correct clearance with shims.

 

[BriarPatch99]

Amazon ..... https://www.amazon.com/Deere-Gearse...s=John+Deere+MX10+gears&qid=1629239752&sr=8-1

Those shafts are designed to break at the point yours did to save the gear box...

 

[NE GA Pappy]

Amazon ..... https://www.amazon.com/Deere-Gearse...s=John+Deere+MX10+gears&qid=1629239752&sr=8-1

Those shafts are designed to break at the point yours did to save the gear box...

found this one a bit cheaper on evilbay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264787198072?hash=item3da68c0078:g:m9gAAOSwWENfAzWr

 

[sleepr71]

Sheared Gearbox shaft. I’d check into a Complete,replacement Gearbox first. It’s either replace the whole
Gearbox,or rebuild yours. IF one can be found…that would be a faster,easier,fix. I say that,because parts are HARD to get & on back order (COVID ?). As far as the Deck…I’d bet a welding shop would be a good bit cheaper than Ag-Pro?. Now…I bet that made one heckuva racket..?