Trad Arrow

[HIGH COUNTRY]

My current arrow as a new trad shooter is only twenty eight and half inches, I can almost feel the back of my broadhead. They seem to be flying fine.

My next half dozen should I try at say a full 30 and see how they shoot or then cut back to twenty nine and half and evaluate?

Also with a forty five lb bow - What is the lowest point up front weight that you would hunt deer with?

I am leaning towards zwickey (bought a pack and they flyfine), magnus stinger, or Simmons head dont know which one.... I was thinking about the one with replaceable blades but it only 100 grains so I wouldhave to add some weight on front end.

REally appreciate your thoughts and guidance!!!

 

[KentuckyHeadhunter]

If it's dialed right the back of the broadhead is where I want my index finger touching. Let's me know I'm at proper draw. Keep your field points and broadheads the same weight. I like 200 up front at least. Don't shoot mechanical broadheads from your trad bow.

 

[trad bow]

Adding length to or shortening the length of your arrow causes impact of your arrow so be aware. Now does it matter? To some yes, to some no. Find the arrow set up of your choice that flies like a dart and make all your arrows for that bow. Write down everything about that arrow and your bow setup. In the future when you’re having problems it makes it easier to identify. Keep your string waxed, focus on your form and have fun

 

[splatek]

I like a heavier head, but total arrow weight and perfect arrow flight and super sharp blades are what I pay most attention to, personally.

Certainly don’t use mechanicals. I don’t think they’ll deploy correctly.

I don’t like the broadhead touching my finger, personally. I like a longer arrow. When the broad head hurts during standing practice, that’s one thing. But I would that from every angle, elevated, seated, etc. because all those things change biomechanics and might change things up. I don’t want fear of cutting my finger in the field.

Just my two cents

 

[trad bow]

When I hit my spot of choice for full draw, that’s my release point and I let the arrow go. But things happen after you start your draw that can make you let down or hold for a few seconds before releasing your arrow. All kinds of scenarios can happen so practice all situations you can think of. I’m in the group of not letting the broadhead touch my fingers.
I’ll tell you how I like to shoot a traditional bow but that doesn’t mean you should shoot a bow my way. Find someone who’s system of shooting is comfortable for you then focus on that and tune everyone else out

 

[HIGH COUNTRY]

I used them some for compound, but was never crazy about expandables even then, I have a pack of zwicky, and ordered the magnus stinger and simmons mako I think it was - its the only simmons with replaceable blades, thats another journey I will take down the road.

Appreciate the thoughts and tips!!!

 

[deast1988]

Start with a long arrow, cut 1/4in off at time till you get it where you want flight wise. This is the best chart I’ve found that’s simple.

Less point weight insert included can stiffen,
More point weight can weaken,

Brace can do it too but it’s more complicated, change the power stroke of the bow.

 

[HIGH COUNTRY]

That is helpful, I have never seen that before. THANKS

 

[earlthegoat2]

Having the broadhead touch your finger at full draw can be a drawing aid to let you know when you are at full draw and as a cue to release to overcome target panic.

Fred Bear did this very thing.

However, if you don’t like it then going to a longer arrow will weaken the spine. Lighter points or stiffer arrows will be in order and a new round of arrow tuning will have to occur.