Cheap, best bang for the buck arrows and broadheads

[JR924]

As posted before on other questions, I just bought a used 52# recurve bow. From am Arrow Chart, I think I need a 400 spline arrow. Too many choices but thinking for cheap, maybe slow but good quality, go for an aluminum arrow unless another material is cheaper. Several questions.

1. Any arrow recommendations for budget minded beginner. I only want to buy say 6. Any Walmart carried brands would be better since I can hide the purchase from my wife better than mail order.
2. What tip weight. 100 or 125 gr. Was leaning towards 125 gr but maybe go with 100 gr. Assume selected broad head weight much match. Again, Walmart carried brand is better for me.
3. Any effective but cheap broadheads that you would recommend to a beginner. Shooting these are far away in my learning process but may buy them anyway as my wife is livid over another shooting hobby so might as well do it all and take the mental pain now instead of later.
4. Not I am exercising to build strength. I may fist buy a cheap say 35 lb bow and shoot that first. Depends how strong I can get.

Thanks in advance for all replies.

 

[deast1988]

Muzzy 125gr 6pack from Wally World

GoldTip warrior tend to be reliable and cheap

Another decent cheaper option, is redhead labeled arrows.

You’ll need feathers, so finding shafts to be made up or already fletched is your options there. I haven’t seen feathered arrows at Walmart ever.

 

[F.A.R.R.]

On this one do your self a big favor and go to an archery shop and have them help you matching arrows to your bow.

That will take one part of the learning curve out of the equation. In the beginning you are likely going to be really inconsistent with your form , aiming method ,anchor point and release that where your arrows are hitting might be erratic …..and you don’t want to be wondering if it’s because of the arrows.

With traditional archery the spine charts will get you in the ball park but really the best way to make sure your arrows are right is shooting them with some one experienced watching

 

[splatek]

If you can’t get to the secret shop order a test pack and go from there
Personally I wouldn’t skimp in broad heads. That’s the killing part of the operation
I like shooting homemade or free or hundred dollar bows. My broad heads usually are worth more than my bows.

 

[Tight Lines]

As other's have said, I've never understood the difference in price vs. performance with respect to broad heads. I'd buy the best you can afford and that work within your setup. From my experience Magnus is top notch, they'll even warranty a head you shoot into the dirt or tree. Next would be NAP for me. Get a shop to help you and don't use mechanicals with that draw weight, but assume you know that.

I use these and love them: https://magnusbroadheads.com/Black-Hornet-Ser-Razor_c_203.html

 

[transfixer]

I'm a novice myself when it comes to recurves, but don't you usually want a fairly heavy broadhead for the penetration ?

 

[JR924]

Going to wait a long while on the broads till I am accurate with field points. Should be able to afford some good ones then. The Magnus as a stand alone purchase will work in the future. Thanks.

 

[trad bow]

I'm a novice myself when it comes to recurves, but don't you usually want a fairly heavy broadhead for the penetration ?

Not really necessary on Georgia’s deer. A sharp cut on contact broad head is all that’s needed. Adding extra weight to the point end of an arrow definitely helps with thick skin animals as they’re hides are tougher.

 

[Troy Butler]

No expert but have been at the trad thing for this will be 32 years. The muzzy 125 from Wally World have killed a lot of deer just put what ever in the lungs or heart dead deer.
As for arrows big Jim has some dark timber arrows that are top notch I’ve killed many a deer with them.
When I started was no internet, I shoot a 72 lb longbow with 2419 arrow and 125 snuffer head. Killed many deer with that setup didn’t know any better. Then along came internet and said I had to use heaver head and bla bla bla.

 

[splatek]

In hindsight, I agree with @Troy Butler for GA deer and most anything else in the state, sans maybe the thickest of thick hog, a decent priced, but SHARP as all get out broadhead ought to work.
I'm not convinced on the heavy broadhead as much anymore, I use them, bc they tune with my bows, but I can also get good flight with lighter heads. Didn't Fred Bear come up with 10GPI as being the ideal.. maybe it wasn't FredBear, but that seems to work for most guys.

I've been talking out loud about archery as my 3 year old shoots his mini-bear bow into my targets, pretending to hunt. I find myself saying the following things: Sharp arrow points and shot angles. I know he's only three but if these principles are ingrained into him now, maybe he will just laugh at the socials and youtubes if he ever watches them. Hopefully, he'll be too far back into the wilderness to ever even open a iPhone.

 

[John Cooper]

Like said above 125-150 cut on contact head will do the job.

Arrow spine/spline for a 52lb Bow, you would be best served going with a 500 or even 600 spine. 400 is going to be stiff, although if you went with 400 you could probably shoot 300gr broad heads and be fine.