Getting traps ready !

antharper

“Well Rounded Outdoorsman MOD “
Staff member
I just got done pressure washing my traps and was about to re dye and wax . But see so many other options I thought I’d see what y’all do . I also just got done reading gobblers sticky above and he said he dyed his but doesn’t wax , that’s really what got me curious as to what u guys do . Just wanted to have them ready when I get ready to set again . Thanks gentlemen and hope y’all have a blessed 4th
 

antharper

“Well Rounded Outdoorsman MOD “
Staff member
And another member on here that’s not around much that helped me some when I was getting started recommend just cleaning and spray painting . Any of y’all tried this
 

Doug B.

Senior Member
There are several methods but I still dye and wax my land traps. I personally don't like the spray paint method but that's just because I don't feel like it protects everywhere like inside the springs. My water traps I dip in a solution of around 60% to 70% Rustoleum paint that comes in a gallon can ( same stuff that is in a spray can) to 30% to 40% acetone. You have to work kinda fast though cause the acetone dries quickly and it helps the paint to dry fast on your traps.

The dipping method just seems to me to get everywhere on the trap better.
 

buckpasser

Senior Member
There are several methods but I still dye and wax my land traps. I personally don't like the spray paint method but that's just because I don't feel like it protects everywhere like inside the springs. My water traps I dip in a solution of around 60% to 70% Rustoleum paint that comes in a gallon can ( same stuff that is in a spray can) to 30% to 40% acetone. You have to work kinda fast though cause the acetone dries quickly and it helps the paint to dry fast on your traps.

The dipping method just seems to me to get everywhere on the trap better.

I really want to dip some in the future. If I do, I’d still like to wax them as well. Do you think I’d have any issue heating and waxing them if they were dipped?
 

Doug B.

Senior Member
I really want to dip some in the future. If I do, I’d still like to wax them as well. Do you think I’d have any issue heating and waxing them if they were dipped?
I don't think you would. It dries fairly quickly but maybe give it a couple of days before you wax them. I have some MB 750s that I dipped in the paint then set them and caught beavers and they still look really good.
 

Railroader

Billy’s Security Guard.
I don't know nothing from nothing much, but when I got done this spring I washed mine in purple stuff, hosed them off and dyed them.

As soon as I pulled them from the dye, I dipped them in Full Metal Jacket while hot and hung them to dry.

They've been hanging in the corner posts of my carports since, in the weather, and they are looking good. I'd go set them tomorrow if I had any sign to set on! :rolleyes::p
 

Doug B.

Senior Member
I'm switching over to rustoleum dip.

Equal parts Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and acetone.

Thinner for snares.
I gave the wrong ratio in an earlier post. You don't want to go equal parts with the paint and acetone. You want more acetone like 60 acetone and 40 paint/primer. It doesn't take much paint to color the traps and more acetone will make it dry better. Equal parts and it will be sticky to the touch for a while.
 

fatback

Senior Member
For those of y’all who are waxing and dying, what are the advantages of waxing over just dying the traps. I thought the wax mainly helped with the traps not freezing during cold weather, which we don’t have enough of where I trap to ever worry about it effecting how a trap operates. What are the other advantages? I might be missing the boat on this one.
 

Doug B.

Senior Member
For those of y’all who are waxing and dying, what are the advantages of waxing over just dying the traps. I thought the wax mainly helped with the traps not freezing during cold weather, which we don’t have enough of where I trap to ever worry about it effecting how a trap operates. What are the other advantages? I might be missing the boat on this one.
I believe that wax is just another added protection against rust. Is it necessary? Probably not. I guess I just do it cause I always do. I also think it helps keep coyotes from smelling my traps. Necessary? Probably not.

It does get cold here in the mountains. I do battle freezing temperatures all winter. I can tell you that wax does not help keep traps from freezing.

Are there any advantages of waxing over not waxing? The only advantage that comes to mind is that it makes the trap a little faster. Is it enough to make it worth doing? I doubt it. I guess it's just another example of the different ways that things are done to achieve the same end result.
 

fatback

Senior Member
I believe that wax is just another added protection against rust. Is it necessary? Probably not. I guess I just do it cause I always do. I also think it helps keep coyotes from smelling my traps. Necessary? Probably not.

It does get cold here in the mountains. I do battle freezing temperatures all winter. I can tell you that wax does not help keep traps from freezing.

Are there any advantages of waxing over not waxing? The only advantage that comes to mind is that it makes the trap a little faster. Is it enough to make it worth doing? I doubt it. I guess it's just another example of the different ways that things are done to achieve the same end result.
That all makes perfect sense to me. When it comes to catching yotes, I need all the advantages I can get. I might try waxing my traps this year and see how it goes. Thanks for the input
 

buckpasser

Senior Member
I wax for rust protection and as we talked about in another thread, scent control. Not necessarily the scent from the initial set, or the handling of the trap preset, but to actually cover the strong iron oxide smell that will soon be emitted from a rusting trap (possibly helpful for pressured coyotes). I also firmly believe there is less friction for launching jaws when they are waxed vs raw.

The only caveat to that is that summer time sugar sand sets and waxy traps don’t mix real well. I couldn’t figure out how those pups were walking all over me last year. The wax and 130 degree sand was making a glassed in effect and the pan tension must have gone up to ten pounds or more.
 
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buckpasser

Senior Member
I think you guys should try the Zeps or Full Metal Jacket wax treatment.

From what I have seen it do, I think y'all would like it...

I’m thinking you’re correct. I’ll try to always remain open minded and flexible on trapping. There are just so many layers of it to master, there has to be areas like dipping that could be an improvement.
 

Ol' Gobblero

Senior Member
I have gotten away from boiling traps all together. It just takes up too much time. I am now dipping new traps in a 60% rustoleum and 40% acetone mix. Then I follow that with Bullet Proof dip after the paint dries. It dries clear and scent free. I normally run 200-300 traps a day for 2-4 week per property. When I finish a property I will pressure wash and dip traps again in Bulletproof. The rustoleum normally lasts me at least 6 months. Just have to redip in Bulletproof between properties. The Bulletproof acts like a wax by speeding up the traps a tad and also adds another layer of protection.
 

Mike81

Senior Member
Since I have already bought everything to clean, dye and wax traps. Let me know if this is going to be ok? I bought a gallon of degreaser. I was going to let them soak in the degreaser for an hour then spray off with hose. Then put them in dishwasher with soap. After cleaning in dishwasher dye and wax them. What yall think
 
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