power carving first attempt

[Longhunter89]

First attempt at doing some power carving with a dremel tool. A little rough but not terrible. Especially for a guy that cant even draw a straight line. Learned I need some extra course bits to quickly remove excess material. It was a slow go with my diamond bits. Going to order some course kutzall bits soon.
Trying to teach myself the basics so I can engrave my hunting calls and maybe some gunstocks.. if anybody on here does power carving and has some tips or techniques they would like to share I'm all ears!

 

[Doug B.]

Looks great for a first timer! I doubt I could do that good on a hundredth try!!!!!

 

[Anvil Head]

If you haven't, invest in a flexshaft with variable speed foot pedal. Lot easier to control than bulky hand unit. Little backyard engineering and you can convert a sewing machine pedal control by changing out plug ends. $2 - $4 at the thrift store. Foot pedal lets you concentrate on the work and not the tool.

Carbide bits if you can find them. Run at higher speeds to avoid "grab and runaway" when you hit different textures, hard spots or burly grains in wood.
If you have a problem with jumping grain issues (oaks, hickories, ash and some exotics) try changing angle of approach to grain direction.
Mostly just practice, practice, practice.
That looks pretty good for first efforts using power.

As with any cutting tools - sharper is better, and don't mix ones you use on metal with ones you use on wood. Found that open cell stiff foam packing material about an inch or so thick (the stuff we always throw away) make great bit holders on the cheap.

Diamond bits are for stone and hard metals, they are going to clog up on softer materials like wood, synthetics, bone, and soft metals like brass, aluminum, copper, etc.
Hope some of this is helpful. Give me a holler if you need more detailed info or clarification.

 

[Longhunter89]

If you haven't, invest in a flexshaft with variable speed foot pedal. Lot easier to control than bulky hand unit. Little backyard engineering and you can convert a sewing machine pedal control by changing out plug ends. $2 - $4 at the thrift store. Foot pedal lets you concentrate on the work and not the tool.

Carbide bits if you can find them. Run at higher speeds to avoid "grab and runaway" when you hit different textures, hard spots or burly grains in wood.
If you have a problem with jumping grain issues (oaks, hickories, ash and some exotics) try changing angle of approach to grain direction.
Mostly just practice, practice, practice.
That looks pretty good for first efforts using power.

As with any cutting tools - sharper is better, and don't mix ones you use on metal with ones you use on wood. Found that open cell stiff foam packing material about an inch or so thick (the stuff we always throw away) make great bit holders on the cheap.

Diamond bits are for stone and hard metals, they are going to clog up on softer materials like wood, synthetics, bone, and soft metals like brass, aluminum, copper, etc.
Hope some of this is helpful. Give me a holler if you need more detailed info or clarification.

Thanks a bunch for that informative post I will definitely put into practice your advice! Gonna try to do some Celtic knots next and see how it goes....gonna look at some flexshafts this week.

 

[Anvil Head]

I've been lucky in finding lightly used ones on both fB marketplace and Craigslist that were local to me. Most often for much lower than half price. Always watching for things like that.
I go through Dremels and flex shafts pretty regular in my knife making. Hard working little tools. I actually have the original models #1 and #2 Dremels (antiques by today's standard). The #1 was all metal and when the brushes wore down far enough it'd shock you pretty good.

 

[hopper]

First attempt at doing some power carving with a dremel tool. A little rough but not terrible. Especially for a guy that cant even draw a straight line. Learned I need some extra course bits to quickly remove excess material. It was a slow go with my diamond bits. Going to order some course kutzall bits soon.
Trying to teach myself the basics so I can engrave my hunting calls and maybe some gunstocks.. if anybody on here does power carving and has some tips or techniques they would like to share I'm all ears!
View attachment 1166952

Not to shabby Buddy!

 

[killerv]

You need to check out some of John Sharp's stuff, definitely inspiring, even better in person

http://www.johntsharp.com/gallery.html

 

[Anvil Head]

You need to check out some of John Sharp's stuff, definitely inspiring, even better in person

http://www.johntsharp.com/gallery.html

Think I got to see some of his work down in Charleston at a Decoy Duck Carving Competition many many moons ago. Some of those guys can carve ducks that look so real you'd swear they are dropping feathers and dripping water on the rise. Amazing work for sure.

 

[elfiii]

Not bad at all for a first try. Better than I could do for sure!

 

[killerv]

Think I got to see some of his work down in Charleston at a Decoy Duck Carving Competition many many moons ago. Some of those guys can carve ducks that look so real you'd swear they are dropping feathers and dripping water on the rise. Amazing work for sure.

That was him, I met him at one in Cleveland. Buddy about knocked over one of his pieces, and then asked him, how much would that have cost...he said 15k.

 

[wvdawg]

Mighty fine!