Question for the custom knife makers

[Longhunter89]

I have what I believe if my memory serves me correct is a Case hunter. The blade is one of my favorite profiles I really like the upswept blade for skinning also I like the thin blade profile and it's easy to get a razor sharp edge. However what I absolutely cannot stand is the leather stacked handles. They are hard to keep clean and get kinda nasty and slimy when processing game or domestic animals. My question is If I cut off the leather stacked washers off could I replace them with a set of wood scales? And what's a recommend company to order from?

 

[turkeykirk]

That’s what is called a hidden tang knife. The pommel is either threaded on or pinned over. You could remove it and replace the stacked handle with wood, antler, etc. Just fit it up good and epoxy everything in place.

 

[Big7]

MSC and McMaster- Carr have Micarta and Phenolic in different composites, thicknesses and colors.

You could dismantle your knife, number the layers and trace with a scribe or thin marker.

It is easy to cut in a vertical band saw or a coping saw with a fine tooth will cut it too.

Once you get it all stacked up by the numbers and glued, it files, sands and polishes up good and it's practically indestructible in certain grades.

I did something similar with brass and stainless, except the layers were pinned- not glued when I was a kid working in tool and die shops.

 

[Anvil Head]

Like TK said, pretty simple to change out the leather for wood. Biggest trick would be to remove the aluminum pommel with out damaging. The Case knives were usually threaded and screwed on with a slotted nut in the end. Real easy to buggar up if you are not careful. Use a release agent like Blaster to make it easier to remove and sacrifice a flat bladded screwdriver of the proper thickness, slot it to fit the nut then disassemble. Not as difficult as it sounds. Just clamp securely in a leather padded vise. You will probably have to cut the leather off as it is usually rusted tight to the tang.

Fun part will be deciding what handle material you want to use and getting a hole drilled straight and true end to end the proper size. The tang will be a semi-flattened oval in cross section but you want a tight fit so it won't loosen and roll in use. Epoxy will help with the void, but want to use as little as possible (it can breakdown over time depending on what you use). TRY FIT EVERYTHING SEVERAL TIMES to get the fit right before glue up.

I personally don't care for the synthetics even though they are popular and come in a variety of colors, patterns, etc. A good chunk of black locust, osage orange, or desert ironwood will outlast the blade and user unless abused. I'd suggest checking with Pop's Knife Supply for the greatest variety of choices and better pricing than McMC or MSC.
Have fun! Let me know via PM if you get "stuck" along the adventure.

 

[Skeeter XRi]

I've rehandled a couple of those that the leather rotted away on.

As Carl said, getting the pommel off without damage is tricky and I quit trying.

Get a block of wood, micarta, or whatever slightly larger than needed. Remove the leather and spacers with a vibrasaw. Fit the block to length, then split it lengthwise with a bandsaw and cut the mortise down the center to clear the blade tang. Epoxy it all up (using saw dust mixed in the epoxy to fill any voids), let it cure, and sand to final shape. If done correctly, you'll have to look very closely to see the seam.

jim

 

[Bobby Bigtime]

I have a very similar "western" knife that I have used for 45 years I found that knife stuck in a picnic table at a campground. The key is to oil the handles and allow the leather discs to absorb the oil and swell then once it is dry rub it down with bees wax or snow seal. It is your knife and do with it what you will but to make it something else is marring a traditional relic in my opinion.