Renamed: Tikka UPR in 6.5 CM… ordered!

Dub

Senior Member
A year ago I would not have even known what that meant.

I’m trying to learn!!!!


The stock is nice. The adjustable cheek piece feels a little cheap but I guess it is what it is.

I will know more once I get behind it for a few rounds.

The trigger is nice but not light.

I have the new spring coming but my mentor wants me to shoot it with factory trigger for a while before replacing spring.

The rifle does not feel as heavy as I thought it would. Has a pretty big barrel taper . .787 at muzzle and 1.12 at base if I recall correctly.

I want to add a brake but I gotta admit I do not know what to buy. Looks like they are all over the place in terms of specs, price and likely… quality. Open for suggestions.

Hoping my care package from my mentor shows up today or tomorrow so I can get some rounds loaded up this weekend.

Got 2 bxs of inexpensive Hornady factory ammo 129 grains to get me started.

Will probably start shooting next weekend.

I have the Arken on the gun now but since the unit is not overly heavy, I likely will hunt with it at least some.

That creates a situation where I will not be happy with the Arken. Hunting is what made me take it off of the Grendel.



Aaahhhh - the boys and their toys.

Pics to come.

View attachment 1207858

You may not much care for a brake when hunting.


Area 419 He||fire is what I am using and likening thus far.


I simply followed a buddy’s advice on that as I was and remain clueless about such.
 

Baroque Brass

Senior Member
I have Tikka T3x in 22-250 and 6.5CM. Both are insanely accurate. Also have a T1x in .22 Rimfire but this is about center fire.

Factory triggers are adjustable but I still used aftermarket springs to get the pull to 1.5-2#.

Just curious, why a muzzle brake on a 6.5? Recoil is light compared to larger center fires like .308 etc.
 
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Jim Boyd

Senior Member
Sweet !!!


Is the trigger adjustable?

Yessir, it is.

There is a small Allen screw that is either run in or out. It can’t fall out because it will butt up against the larger Allen screw that holds the trigger assy to the receiver. I put blue loctite on both screw however and I have the small screw backed out til it is touching the larger screw.

I don’t have a gauge but it is supposed to take the factory 3.5 to 3.7 trigger and convert it to a 1.5 to 1.8 lb trigger.

Best $12 I ever spent, I think.
 

Jim Boyd

Senior Member
I have Tikka T3x in 22-250 and 6.5CM. Both are insanely accurate. Also have a T1x in .22 Rimfire but this is about center fire.

Factory triggers are adjustable but but I still used aftermarket springs to get the pull to 1.5-2#.

Just curious, why a muzzle brake on a 6.5? Recoil is light compared to larger center fires like .308 etc.

Baroque -

I guess I don’t have a great answer - other than recoil is not my favorite monster.

That - and the Tikka is a new project and I would like to do whatever I am gonna do at the start. It is 5/8 x 24 threaded so I would assume that is for a brake or a suppressor (I am not interested in the latter).

I have a savage 7-08 with on/off factory brake and I can tell the difference between open and closed.

I shoot my 6.5 G with no brake but it is not threaded for one, either.

Maybe I do not need anything and can save that $100 to $200.

I do know that I am conscious of recoil when shooting and I know that - at least to some degree - it affects accuracy.

I am going to work hard on this with the Tikka as it is my first “tool and caliber” that is aimed at precision shooting.

In years past if my hunting rifles shot 1.5”, I was happy - and very confident on deer to 250 yards.


I am 100% open to coaching, advice, instruction etc.


Thanks !
 

Jim Boyd

Senior Member
is that the Lyman funnel set?
How do you like the bench mount primer from Lee?


The Lyman funnel set is wonderful. So much better than the plastic funnel I was using. What it does not have, however - is the nozzle for the .350 legend brass. Will see if I can find one.

Only thing I would note is that since the nozzle fits the brass pretty well, you gotta be fairly careful when, after the pour - you lift the funnel off of the brass. If done sloppily, it will pull the brass up from the tray and you will make a powder mess. As long as you are aware and lift UP intentionally, all is well.


The bench mount primer from Lee is really nice also. First use yesterday. I was priming on press before that and it was a pain. Handling each primer is not a good idea, I would not think. It feels clunky in the set up but once you get used to it and trust it - it works great. One again, however, it does not use a standard shell holder and you gotta make sure you have the ones you need.


I am quite happy with both.
 
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Jim Boyd

Senior Member
You may not much care for a brake when hunting.


Area 419 He||fire is what I am using and likening thus far.


I simply followed a buddy’s advice on that as I was and remain clueless about such.

My guess is this Tikka will be 95% target - but maybe not.

My Grendel was my fave rifle last year and I only shot 1 deer in 2022 and it was with the 6.5G.

I am working on a 350 Legend project and will want to shoot a deer with it this fall. It is a Savage with factory brake.

I will want to shoot at least one deer with the Tikka also - so the Grendel may not get used much….

I guess the smart thing is to shoot the Tikka 50-100 times and see how it feels recoil wise.

Thanks. !
 
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Baroque Brass

Senior Member
Baroque -

I guess I don’t have a great answer - other than recoil is not my favorite monster.

That - and the Tikka is a new project and I would like to do whatever I am gonna do at the start. It is 5/8 x 24 threaded so I would assume that is for a brake or a suppressor (I am not interested in the latter).

I have a savage 7-08 with on/off factory brake and I can tell the difference between open and closed.

I shoot my 6.5 G with no brake but it is not threaded for one, either.

Maybe I do not need anything and can save that $100 to $200.

I do know that I am conscious of recoil when shooting and I know that - at least to some degree - it affects accuracy.

I am going to work hard on this with the Tikka as it is my first “tool and caliber” that is aimed at precision shooting.

In years past if my hunting rifles shot 1.5”, I was happy - and very confident on deer to 250 yards.


I am 100% open to coaching, advice, instruction etc.


Thanks !
Lighter recoil is why I retired my 30.06 for the 6.5. The 30.06 has killed more deer than I can recall but it’s heavy, kicks like a rented mule (though not as much as a 7mag) and I’m not as young as I used to be. Anyway, though I don’t hunt much anymore, the 6.5 has worked well on a hog and a deer. The hog ran 30 yards or so and the deer dropped where he was standing and kicked for a minute and that was that.

Enjoy that beautiful new rifle, it’ll be a sweet shooter I’m sure!
 

Dub

Senior Member
My guess is this Tikka will be 95% target - but maybe not.

My Grendel was my fave rifle last year and I only shot 1 deer in 2022 and it was with the 6.5G.

I am working on a 350 Legend project and will want to shoot a deer with it this fall. It is a Savage with factory brake.

I will want to shoot at least one deer with the Tikka also - so the Grendel may not get used much….

I guess the smart thing is to shoot the Tikka 50-100 times and see how it feels recoil wise.

Thanks. !

Then by all means give those Area 419 and other quality brakes a look.

Makes a sweet shooting rifle even sweeter.

I used to HATE guns with brakes. Now….I embrace them fully. Ear protection needed, of course.
 

Dub

Senior Member
My guess is this Tikka will be 95% target - but maybe not.

My Grendel was my fave rifle last year and I only shot 1 deer in 2022 and it was with the 6.5G.

I am working on a 350 Legend project and will want to shoot a deer with it this fall. It is a Savage with factory brake.

I will want to shoot at least one deer with the Tikka also - so the Grendel may not get used much….

I guess the smart thing is to shoot the Tikka 50-100 times and see how it feels recoil wise.

Thanks. !

Then by all means give those Area 419 and other quality brakes a look.

Makes a sweet shooting rifle even sweeter.

I used to HATE guns with brakes. Now….I embrace them fully. Ear protection needed, of course.
 

Jester896

Senior Clown
I have never liked press priming with the exception of a Dillon and don't care for it then. We each recently picked up the Lee bench mount and stopped using the Lee hand presses we had. It really is nicer to use but it has drawbacks as well, but we already had the shell holders for the others. I have used the round one and the newer square tray versions of the hand press and will keep them around.

I have individual Saturn funnels now but have looked at the Area 419 set and used the one my buddy picked up...it is nice...I like the price on the Lyman better. The Area 419 funnel seems better to me with the ridges and I really like the color coded case mouth adapters better..but that price difference keeps getting me. The Area 419 has a rack...but I might like the box better the Lyman comes in. Tough call :huh:
 

Baroque Brass

Senior Member
Then by all means give those Area 419 and other quality brakes a look.

Makes a sweet shooting rifle even sweeter.

I used to HATE guns with brakes. Now….I embrace them fully. Ear protection needed, of course.
Especially for anyone stands nearby.
 

Jester896

Senior Clown
I kinda still hate brakes...any time someone you allow one under your EZ Up to shoot from your position they always take out something with a brake...blows dirt and other trash all in your optics and open receiver while it is cooling...don't forget the one in the next tent shooting the 50BMG...it goes 2 tents in either direction.
Now add the noise factor.
 
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Jim Boyd

Senior Member
First range session yesterday.

Fairly soft shooter so I am gonna lay off of any brake for now.

Got rifle on paper and semi-zeroed using some factory ammo.

Shot 6 groups of 3 rounds each and it did not appear that varying the powder made much of a difference on this load.

Norma 130’s and Varget from 37.0 to 38.5 grains.

This is 50 yards - will work at 100 yards next session and set zero stop.

15693FD6-EE10-4591-8C8C-C5773830087E.jpeg84A2146E-48F1-46D3-B99B-5F20B1CC50DE.jpeg9039D79D-3B70-4A44-AA6F-6CF275EA126E.jpeg
 

FlipKing

Senior Member
First range session yesterday.

Fairly soft shooter so I am gonna lay off of any brake for now.

Got rifle on paper and semi-zeroed using some factory ammo.

Shot 6 groups of 3 rounds each and it did not appear that varying the powder made much of a difference on this load.

Norma 130’s and Varget from 37.0 to 38.5 grains.

This is 50 yards - will work at 100 yards next session and set zero stop.

View attachment 1211156View attachment 1211157View attachment 1211158
Basically all of those will work for sure!
 

Jim Boyd

Senior Member
Basically all of those will work for sure!

What was really odd is that the ones that got away from me were generally the second shot.

It was me and not the rifle, I think.

Cold barrel each set of 3 and I reset myself on the rifle every shot.

Missing something in my form somewhere. I think.
 
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