24V Wiring Troubleshooting

B. White

Senior Member
I bought a used 1442 last week with a 24v trolling motor. The person who I bought it from had not used it very much and I believe it was his first boat, so he was not intimately familiar with it. The lights did not work and all connections were pretty corroded. I cleaned them up and added new batteries and everything worked ok.

The wiring to the batteries is not marked well at all, and I'm basing some of what goes where on the wire length. Some will not reach the 2nd battery, so what is I think is correct is a process of elimination, if it was originally wired correctly. The jumper is connected correctly.

I have not owned anything but a kayak in the last 12-15 years, but based on memory from a Bass Tracker I had in the 80's, hitting the switch on a 70lb motor turned sideways should just about throw me off the front casting deck. It moves pretty good, but not that much torque, so my instinct is it's running on 12v. There are several places where *** and neg wires are connected when I flip the foot control over. I probed with a tester and only got an output in one spot and it was 12v.

It has had aluminum flooring added and the wiring runs through pvc pipe in non-accessible locations, except in couple of spots. There is a 4 switch panel that controls lighting, but the trolling motor doesn't seem to be wired through it and I don't see any fuses. Switches control lighting and bilge. TM works no matter what.

Is there a simple way to test and troubleshoot connections at the batteries without burning anything up? If not, it may be easier to start from scratch and rewire the trolling motor.
 

jimmy.444

Senior Member
I’d start from scratch and rewire at least the trolling motor. I’d put new wire and connectors in it.
 

ryanh487

Senior Member
The lighting will be 12v and should be on a separate circuit from the motor to their own battery if they aren't already
 
I'm assuming you have two separate 12V batteries?

Your batteries will need to be connected in series to supply 24V for the trolling motor - 12V + 12V = 24V.

Your other things are probably all 12V and will only be connected to one battery.

And yeah a 70lb TM should be able to knock you off a 14' boat if you put it to max speed sideways.

I could draw up a diagram for you if you want.
 

B. White

Senior Member
I appreciate the answers. I got it worked out and as suspected it was running on 12.

Three wires were black and one was black and green. Two would only reach one battery and two were extra long and could reach any battery.

The two long wires appeared to be slightly larger heavier gauge, so I guessed the were for the TM. Unhooked the negative and nav lights worked but TM did not. Moved to the negative on the other battery and it spins like I would expect now. I'll put a hummingbird on it this week, so I guess I'll add a third cheaper deep cycle to run it off of.
 

BoosterC

Senior Member
What model trolling motor? Thrust? Age? Some used to be 12v/24V switchable. It would be wise to add a circuit breaker on the Positive of the trolling motor, Depending on model and thrust, a 40A should fit from your description.
 
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B. White

Senior Member
What model trolling motor? Thrust? Age? Some used to be 12v/24V switchable. It would be wise to add a circuit breaker on the Positive of the trolling motor, Depending on model and thrust, a 40A should fit from your description.
2016 based on S/N and 70lb. Yes, adding 50 amp fuse and also one inline to hummingbird.
 
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