A First-timer's String and Cable Swap Thread

[Huntinfool]

If you're not going to shoot it at 70#, and lets say you're actually gonna shoot it at 67#, then don't twist the cables up any more. Just leave it where it is. Then you can check the DL. I don't like to rely on the string to adjust DL too much. Not more than about 4 twists total. I don't like untwisting the string either, especially more than 1 or 2 twists. That can cause a well made string to start showing peep rotation.

Good thought and I think you're right. I've been thinking the same thing this morning.

I'm pretty well convinced that I won't ever shoot a full 70# bow again. It's just not worth the risk of re-injury.

I'll be shooting the new Synergy at probably 55# for at least the next 12 months. So the Z will only be a backup bow and I'll likely drop it down to as close to 60# as I can.

So, yes, I think I'm goign to leave it as is and go on with tuning from here.

 

[Kris87]

I guess I should now tie my soft nocks and D-loop and check my draw length?

Don't worry about the twists, it looks fine.

I'd go on to the nock set at this point.

 

[Brewskis]

I tied my soft nocks and D-loop, and then put the bow on the draw board. From what I could tell, the DL read 29.625" to 29.6875". In other words, 1/8" to 3/16" too long (DL s/b 29.5").

Is this close enough or is there something I need to do in order to get it spot on?

I might add that I checked the timing on the drawboard, and noticed that the top cam is now slightly behind the bottom cam by about 1/16".

 

[Kris87]

That's probably about right. Most of my Hoyts are almost 1/4" long when I get them where I want them. Its up to you. Measure your other bow with the factory threads still on it. Its probably long too. Go ahead and put the top cam ahead 1/8". Do it with the buss since you don't have any twists left out of the control.

 

[Brewskis]

Yep, checked the Faktor, and same thing. About 1/8" longer. I actually like the feel of it as it is, so I'm going to keep it that way.

I added one full twist to each yoke leg, and put it back on the draw board. It was perfect. Top cam was ahead by 1/8".

Decided to shoot some bareshafts. First two were from 5 feet. I was pretty happy.

I backed up a little farther, and shot some more. Still had some decent shots, but a couple tore a little high right.

Full disclosure, I haven't been shooting a lot lately, so I'm sure my form is a little rusty/inconsistent. I'm wondering if those were more likely due to me than the tune. What do you think?

 

[Kris87]

Those are sweet for a few first shots. I've spoiled you.

 

[Brewskis]

I try to never take anything for granted. However, I kinda expected some decent holes based on your guidance, and how smooth everything has gone. Thanks again for eliminating the usual growing pains.

I think I'm ready to get my peep installed. Last time I did this, I pressed the bow, and just randomly placed it between the string. However, it was hard for me to tell which way it was aligned each time, and I did have to deal with some rotation issues which resulted in multiple trips in and out of the press. I have my nock-to-peep measurement I took (6"), but are there any tips/tricks to making the peep align properly at that measurement?

 

[Kris87]

My method for the peep is probably overkill but I rarely have to go back in and out of the press. Do this....move the tag the builder put in the string for you to locate the center of the strands to the exact spot you want the peep to go. Then put the bow in the draw board and draw it all the way back. This should give you a good idea on which way the string needs to be at full draw. From here, I've done it two ways. Sometimes I will pull the tag to one end so I know which way I need to put my peep in when I press the bow, just a reference. Sometimes when the bow is at full draw in the draw board, I just slip my string splitter in there and put the peep in. There's very little resistance on the string at full draw, its all on the cables.

Or just do it the old fashion way and put it in there and control it with the string at the bottom.

 

[Brewskis]

I slid the thread inserted by the string builder down to where I wanted my peep. I put the bow on the drawboard, and had no problem sliding it in. Everything looked good and straight at that time and after letting down the bow.

However, after shooting an arrow, the peep (along with the D-loop) was rotated over to the left (clockwise). Shot several arrows, and whereas, the peep pulled back straight, it always ended up to the left after the shot.

Is this when I should make a change at the bottom of the string? (if so, what would I do to straighten it out?)

Will tying the peep in above and below turn the peep at all?

 

[Brewskis]

May have possibly answered one of my questions. Looked back at the tuning thread, and found this post.

Applying that principle in this case, would taking a twist out of the string rotate the peep right, and center it? If so, would it matter at which can?

 

[Kris87]

Pic is a little blurry, but the direction the peep is rotating from straight is the direction the string would be untwisting, which means its stretching just a hair. It will settle in after 50 shots or so. I'd tie it in there, as its close enough. When one is only off that much, I can normally get it into position when i tie it above and below, and also after I work it with my fingers for a bit.

Long story short, tie it in, and mess with the position of the loop if you have too. I bet it will straighten out.

 

[Brewskis]

Tied my peep sight in. Another shout out to Pasinthrough for his video showing how he does it. I'd forgotten how since the last time I did this, but the video was easy to follow and re-learn.

After tying it in, I put quite a few shots through the bow, and the peep really seemed to want to stay where it was. I went back and re-read your post, and realized that perhaps I could have done a better job of manipulating the orientation of the peep while tying it in. However, not wanting to redo it, I decided to try taking one twist out of the top of the string. This lined the peep up straight, but in the opposite direction. I simply flipped it around. I checked all my specs again, and everything checked out. It's hasn't moved/rotated from straight back after 50+ shots. Speaking of those shots, here are the results I'm getting.

Bareshaft through paper between 5 and 10 feet.

Bareshaft and fletched at 30 yards!

Fieldpoint and broadhead at 30 yards.

Looks like the CS34 is good to go. Thanks again, Kris, for all the help! Also, I'm very happy with these JBK bow strings. Now on to the Faktor 34.

 

[Huntinfool]

That's pretty sweet man. I don't think anybody would accuse that bow of not being well tuned!

 

[Kris87]

That'll work. Good job, just like last time.

 

[Brewskis]

Thanks guys. How is everything turning out with the Z28, Huntinfool?

BTW, I was going back through photos I took, and saw this one which might be a useful 'tip' for someone else doing this. If you're going to save your old strings, they may or may not want to untwist after removing them based on how long they were used. As Kris mentioned, you can put these on the paperclip(s) the new strings come one. All mine came on a single paper clip, so instead of crowding another one on there at time, I just thumb-tacked them to my work bench, and later slid them onto the empty paperclip after all the news strings were on the bow.

 

[Brewskis]

I started the string and cable swap on my Faktor 34 last night.

Top cam was way behind the bottom just like it was initially on the CS34. However, max DW was 3 lbs low (57 lbs) this time instead of 1.5 low like last time.

Added 5 twists into the bottom of the buss cable. Checked it, and top was still slightly behind just like last time.

Removed 3 twists from the top of the control cable. checked it, and the top was now ever so slightly ahead of the bottom just like I wanted.

However, the max draw weight only came up to 58.5 lbs. Basically, I got the same 1.5 lb increase as when I did the previous steps with the CS34, but I was at 58.5 lbs to start with then and not 57.

Any way to increase the max poundage another 1.5 lb to 60 lbs without messing up my cam sync which is now perfect?

 

[Brewskis]

BTW, A2A and BH are in spec. Decided to wait on tying my nock set until I knew what to do about the DW, so I still don't know what the DL is.

 

[Kris87]

The only way to increase you DW is to keep twisting the buss cable. If you do that, then you're going to have to twist the control cable probably twice the amount of times you twist the buss, so keep that in mind. If it were me, since I know you're not gonna shoot it at 60#, I'd check the DL and see where it is. If its where you want it, then I wouldn't do anything with the DW. My CS34 only maxes at 69#. Its a little shy too when most bows come in a little over poundage.

If its within a pound or so, don't bother with it. Could also be the scale too.

 

[Brewskis]

OK, I'll move onto my nock set, and check the DL.

One other thing. I measured my speed nocks.

Bottom cam, first speed nock difference: 1/8" closer to cam
Bottom cam, second speed nock difference: 1/4" closer to cam
Top cam, first speed nock difference: 1/4" closer to cam
Top cam, second speed nock difference: 5/16" closer to cam

After my CS34 string change, the speed nocks ranged from 3/16" to 1/8" closer to the cams, so these are even a bit closer.

I should mention that when I was installing the string on the one cam the other side of the string slipped from my hand, and I wondered if it untwisted any when this happened. Would that have had any effect on the nock location relative to the cams? I've repeatedly heard that the location of the speed nocks is critical for tuning with the Z5 cams. Just not sure how critical. Are these within the tolerances, or should something be done before moving forward?

 

[Kris87]

I don't think that small amount is much to worry with. Mine were a bit closer from JbK too. No worries.