Man, I hope things slow down at least a bit by the time the season starts, or I'll be hard pushed to get in a stand. Finally was able to find a few minutes last night to get back to this.
So I had completely forgotten to set my prelean before starting (I think I may go back and add a post to the tuning thread that gives a good final rundown of steps I've been following each time I start tuning from scratch since it's easy to miss a step if you're scanning quickly through the thread).
I decided to reverse what I had done already, and took the 5 twists out of the buss cable and put 3 back into the control cable.
Back at square one, my prelean was way to much this way \ just like it was after installing the new string and cables on the CS34, so I put 5 twists into the right yoke, and got it close to where you'd want it initially. Since the top cam was pretty far ahead again, I put twists into the buss cable again (this time 4 twists) and took 2 out of the control cable. Cam sync looked good at this point with the bottom about 1/8" behind the top.
I tied in my nock set, and checked the draw length. This time, instead of being slightly long, it was slightly short.
I started shooting some bareshafts through paper, and have consistently gotten a bad nock left and low tear. Putting one twist into the left yoke leg and taking one twist out of the right yoke leg helped slightly, but the tear is still ~3/4" nock low and left. Plus, that put a little more prelean into the cam.
One factor that may or may not be relevant is that this bow was not previously tuned to shoot the arrows that I'm shooting (longer, heavier and stiffer spine now). Therefore, I'm not sure if the specs I was using before get thrown out the window.
As comfortable as I've gotten with this and thought about experimenting, I recalled this post and decided to 'phone a friend'.
So I had completely forgotten to set my prelean before starting (I think I may go back and add a post to the tuning thread that gives a good final rundown of steps I've been following each time I start tuning from scratch since it's easy to miss a step if you're scanning quickly through the thread).
I decided to reverse what I had done already, and took the 5 twists out of the buss cable and put 3 back into the control cable.
Back at square one, my prelean was way to much this way \ just like it was after installing the new string and cables on the CS34, so I put 5 twists into the right yoke, and got it close to where you'd want it initially. Since the top cam was pretty far ahead again, I put twists into the buss cable again (this time 4 twists) and took 2 out of the control cable. Cam sync looked good at this point with the bottom about 1/8" behind the top.
I tied in my nock set, and checked the draw length. This time, instead of being slightly long, it was slightly short.
I started shooting some bareshafts through paper, and have consistently gotten a bad nock left and low tear. Putting one twist into the left yoke leg and taking one twist out of the right yoke leg helped slightly, but the tear is still ~3/4" nock low and left. Plus, that put a little more prelean into the cam.
One factor that may or may not be relevant is that this bow was not previously tuned to shoot the arrows that I'm shooting (longer, heavier and stiffer spine now). Therefore, I'm not sure if the specs I was using before get thrown out the window.
As comfortable as I've gotten with this and thought about experimenting, I recalled this post and decided to 'phone a friend'.
