A Long-due Confluence of Generations Deep in the Smokies

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
Whitetailfreak. I met him here on this forum many years ago. Over the years, we wound up talking and discussing things on many of the same threads. We soon discovered we had many things in common. We have had many long PM exchanges, and talked and texted on the phone a lot over the years. But we had never met in person. Somewhere, somehow, I don't remember exactly how, along the way; we figured out that we had a very strong real-word connection: both our families bear hunted and fished and hung out together regularly back in the 50s and 60s. Particularly my uncle Charlie and my dad, and his grandpa and great-uncle. Apparently, they were all really close friends back in the day and shared many, many adventures together. We soon realized that we had both grown up hearing the exact same enduring often-told hunting, fishing, and camping stories, told from two different perspectives, but matching to a tee. We had to meet up and continue the tradition. Not to do so would be somehow unthinkable.

There is a watershed in the Smokies that is very dear to him, like Cataloochee is to me, and for the same reasons: deep family roots that were ended when the NPS bought up our ancestors' farms and sent them packing to build a national park. Many of our families' shared stories we both grew up hearing were set in this watershed. It is one of the most remote places in the Smokies, cut off from the rest of the world when a lake was built in the 40s to supply electricity to a top-secret facility that would make the bombs that ended WWII, and an industry that would produce the aluminum to produce the aircraft that would drop them. I have never been into it, nor fished it. He has, regularly, for most of his life. A trip was needed.

We have planned this trip over and over for years, only to have family emergencies, work, or epic floods destroy our plans each year. We started planning it again this year about a month ago. As it turned out, we only had one setback: a semi-epic minor flood that set our plans back a day. We were set to leave out Thursday morning and stay back in the mountains until Sunday. Wednesday night and early Thursday, the storms and torrential rains came rolling in. We decided to postpone until Friday morning, which was a good idea, because it rained and stormed all day Thursday, nearly 3" worth. When I was driving out to meet him Friday morning, tree crews were still sawing fallen trunks out of the roads, and as @whitetailfreak texted me when we were both en route, "There are creeks where there shouldn't be."

We finally met in person early in the morning at a marina, where we were scheduled for a boat shuttle. His dad, who is a fine person, came to see us off, and rode across the lake to the trailhead with us. Soon, we unloaded all our stuff, the boat backed away and started back down the lake, and we were left utterly alone for two and a half days, completely deserted and isolated from the world by miles and miles of wilderness. No people, no cell service, just us and the gear we had brought. We started up the trail, our ultimate destination for the weekend a little over six miles away, all uphill. It was all up to us. There is no plan B.

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To be continued......
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
We started out in the ruins of a drowned town, and worked our way up. To most folks, it looks like a peaceful wilderness untouched by man, but it still bears traces of once-thriving human settlement if you look. There are remnants of homes, schools, churches, and the industrial logging that totally raped and pillaged these mountains in the early 1900s. The trail we were walking on is the bed of a railroad that followed the creek up into its headwaters, carrying in workers, and carrying out the corpses of the bountiful virgin timber by the millions of board feet. The same revolution that finally brought cash money and the outside world to the isolated people who lived here, also brought the destruction of the things that had drawn them here to begin with and left them in a ruined wasteland of slash and silted streams, dead trout, and debt. Today, hefty trees grow up through the ruins of both family farm and corporate domination, and hide them from the trail unless you know where to look or chance across them.

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The graves of those who lived and died here still stand in the woods by the hundreds, scattered up and down this valley, still lovingly cared for and decorated yearly a century later by the NPS work crews and the descendants of those who lie at peace in the ground here, who have never forgotten and come back annually to honor them.

To be continued.....
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
Water. There was a lot of it. The creek wasn't out of banks, but it was pretty much up to the top of them after the rains, and off colored. The lower end of the creek would have been nearly completely unfishable. But we were headed upstream, and water runs downhill.

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We took our time hiking in, stopping at the springs whitetailfreak knew to refill our water bottles. About a mile below our campsite, we stopped for a break at the junction of a tributary stream, and as we sat there resting and drinking water, two mink came working up the creek bank only a few feet away from us. I tried to get a pic, but they were fast as lightning, and gone before the camera focused. It was a very interesting sight to see. As the mink disappeared upstream, we stood up and braced for the climb across the last steep ridge before we arrived at our campsite. After a couple more rest breaks, it was all downhill, and we had arrived at the confluence of the main creek with its major tributary, where we were going to spend our weekend.

The water was still running high where the creeks met:

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After a good rest, and changing our hiking boots and socks out for flipflops, we soon had camp set up, and had us a tidy home away from home for the weekend:

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View of the creek from camp, framed by an old, gnarled sourwood tree:

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Here we were, six miles back in the mountains, with tired, sore legs, but ready for adventure. Six miles doesn't seem like far in a car, but on shank's mare, uphill, with a heavy load, it's a good long ways. Hours of walking. And you feel every step of it at my age.

To be continued tomorrow...
 

trad bow

wooden stick slinging driveler
The ancestral home lands. Once I heal up I be got to go back to the Snowbirds.
 

turkeykirk

Senior Member
Great read.(y)
 

Big7

The Oracle
6 miles in the mountains dragging an oxcart IN SUMMER had to be rough. IDK if I could still do that.

Ain't no where you can drink out of a creek without treating the water around here any more.
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
6 miles in the mountains dragging an oxcart IN SUMMER had to be rough. IDK if I could still do that.

Ain't no where you can drink out of a creek without treating the water around here any more.
Springs. Much different from a creek.
 

whitetailfreak

Senior Member
What a trip. I was telling someone yesterday that fishing and camping with NCH is like fishing and camping with a feller who has a PhD in Smoky Mountain flora and fauna and that's the truth. Somehow we managed to fly fish side by side on a small mountain creek and never tangle up or get an unwanted ear ring. Not to mention that there's a good chance NCH invented a new tater dish the likes which the mountains have never seen. Great start to the story brother!
 
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Hoss

Moderator
Enjoying the trip and look forward to the next installment. Don’t believe I could do that hike anymore and definitely couldn’t do it pulling a cart, but do enjoy doing it vicariously with your trip.
 

Big7

The Oracle
Did y'all catch a bunch of Trout for the grill?
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
We were not alone in camp. There were giant 6" millipedes and other critters:

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We had two bald-faced hornet nests in the edge of the campsite:

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And, reminiscent of the adventures of one of our old mentors, Sam Hunnicutt, we were plagued by hundreds thousands of honeybees. Those who say honeybees are in trouble should go several miles back into the Smokies. They about drove me crazy. When you sat down, they landed on you. Lots of them. They were buzzing in our faces continuously throughout the daylight hours. And they love the salt from human sweat. They will risk their lives to get it.

When the biggest adventure of the day is putting on your hat:

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After we got settled in, it was time to fish awhile. Dark clouds had settled in by the time we headed up the tributary near camp. We fished about a mile and a half up it that afternoon. By the time we got half a mile upstream, it was thundering and raining fairly hard. But we caught fish consistently despite the rain and high water. Rainbows and browns in a pretty equal mix, most of them on the smaller size, but we hung into the occasional good one, including a solid foot-long brown that separated Kris's fly from his tippet, then put on a show by launching itself two feet into the air in front of us and splashing water everywhere after breaking him off. We just stood there wishing we could have caught that amazing moment in a pic. But most of the good moments, you can't, and it would probably be meaningless if you could. You just had to be there. I caught it in my memories, and there it will stay forever.

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As the light faded and the storm passed into the distance, we hiked back toward camp, tired and starved.

Kris (hope he don't mind me using his name, but whitetailfreak is a lot of typing, and the abbreviation *** is censored on GON, :) ) brought some burger patties frozen, and they thawed while we were hiking in. As soon as it got dark enough for the hordes of bees to disappear, we fired up the campstove and started cooking. We had picked a nice mess of chanterelle mushrooms from the trailside on the hike in, and they made a delicious topping for our burgers, along with some bacon and cheese I toted in. We wolfed down our burgers, sat around camp and talked and talked for a good while about things past, present, and future; and finally hit the hay about 1 AM and slept like rocks for a few hours. And the morning and the evening were the first day.

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burger.jpg
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
We awoke with the light the next morning. It is so peaceful and quiet back in this valley that it makes you regret every minute you have spent in the modern world with all its bustle and drama. The only sounds were running water, breeze in the leaves, and the flute-like trills of a wood thrush. Coffee was soon brewed, and I doctored up a Mountain House desecrated breakfast skillet meal with some non-refrigeration Hormel bacon for some breakfast burritos. Not great at home, but pretty good at the moment.

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We decided to go upstream to try to escape the high water. We walked about a mile, and dropped off into a gorge that was rough as a cob, but full of fine water and fish. The high water was lapping at the rhododendrons, and it was strenuous, to give an understatement. Once I got out and bushwhacked through an almost impenetrable laurel thicket for a quarter-mile to avoid wading chest-deep and climbing a waterfall, finally walking over a slippery log that was six feet above the laurel tops, hoping I didn't fall in and become consumed forever. We caught fish steadily. At the head of the gorge, I met up with Kris, and we hiked about another mile and stopped at a NPS bunkhouse about eight miles in to fill our water bottles at a spring, rest, and eat a good lunch of summer sausage, cheese and crackers. After resting our tired legs and backs, we headed a "3/4 mile" (metric :rofl:) up the trail to a stretch of creek that Kris knew well and was one of his favorite places to fish. We finally crested the last ridge and dropped off through the woods, to behold as fine a stretch of water as I have ever beheld. This was the first hole we fished:

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I caught four fish from it in as many casts-three solid rainbows and this tiny little jewel of a native speck:

speck.jpg

It was on now.

To be continued...
 
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