New barrel swap and finish options

[C.Killmaster]

Okay folks, after the succuss of converting my Tikka from 300 Win Mag to 6.5 PRC I wanted to start the next project. I've got a Savage Model 10 Lefty in .308 with the super heavy tactical barrel that I want to lighten up for hunting. I just ordered a factory sporter barrel in 6.5 CM that is stainless. Given that my action is blued, I'd like to increase the rust resistance with another finish when I do the barrel swap since the new barrel is stainless. What do you think are the best options for a refinish on the action, Cerokote, Gun-kote, Duracoat, black oxide, leave it blued? I prefer DIY options, but not opposed to having a shop refinish if all the DIY options are crap.

On another note, I'm going for an ultralight rifle here. This synthetic stock is 2 lbs 7 ounces, but I've heard there are other synthetics nearly a pound lighter than that. Any recommendations? This is a ~2006 rifle with 4.4" action screws on center with a blind magazine.

 

[Boondocks]

Sell that gun. Buy what you want.

 

[C.Killmaster]

Sell that gun. Buy what you want.

You don't find deals on left-handed rifles. It's easier and cheaper to build it like I want it than try to sell a lefty and replace it. Besides, it was a college graduation present from my wife so there is some sentimental attachment.

 

[Railroader]

Have somebody cerakote it in the color you want, and then rattle can that plastic stock to complement the c-kote...

 

[menhadenman]

Boyd’s makes a featherweight you can get in left hand not sure what it weighs though. Check out the Oryx chassis too, they look pretty slick. Cortina had a bit with dropping a 700 into one of them recently. Good luck, my lightweight rig is a stainless T3X lite in 6.5 and it’s like varying a helium balloon with the SWFA ultralight scope at 9 oz.

 

[menhadenman]

 

[bighonkinjeep]

If you want light and handy chop that sporter down to 16".(steel is heavy) I took a lefty model 11 in 243 and chopped a .308 sporter down -6" to 16". Also chopped a right handed DBM synthetic stock down to a 12" legnth of pull reboilt the screw pillars inside the butt with epoxy and used a belt sander to reprofile the recoil pad and then moved the bolt handle cutout to the left side and filled the right handed cutout with epoxy. The 33" overall legnth carbine that resulted is one of my favorite rifles. Nothing wants to be in the crosshairs at any distance.a few other do dads as well but that covers the basics of my weight and bulk reduction. The stocks camo job is a rattle can done with a sea sponge

 

[bighonkinjeep]

 

[bighonkinjeep]

Go ahead and do the swap. Heres a model 10 I did with a blued action and stainless barrel. You may like the resulting look.

 

[Jester896]

I have a couple with blued/coated actions and stainless barrel. Brownell's has Aluma-Hyde too

 

[C.Killmaster]

Boyd’s makes a featherweight you can get in left hand not sure what it weighs though. Check out the Oryx chassis too, they look pretty slick. Cortina had a bit with dropping a 700 into one of them recently. Good luck, my lightweight rig is a stainless T3X lite in 6.5 and it’s like varying a helium balloon with the SWFA ultralight scope at 9 oz.

I find it strange that Boyd's calls it a featherweight, but they don't say how much it weighs in the description. I found the answer on another website, 2.3 to 2.5 lbs which is about what mine weighs.

 

[bighonkinjeep]

I find it strange that Boyd's calls it a featherweight, but they don't say how much it weighs in the description. I found the answer on another website, 2.3 to 2.5 lbs which is about what mine weighs.

a lot of folks seem to havr a problem with the Savage tupperware but I'm not one of them. The only ones Ive ever noticed a problem with were the ones on heavy barreled long actions and then only with bi pod on the front stud which caused flex into the barrel under recoil. The dual pillar bedded ones are sturdy units that allow torque tuning and pretty high torque to the action screws without crushing the escutions and wood like one of the softer Boyds laminate units without pillars. Also theyre weather, ding and almost idiot/abuse proof. Asthetics are easily improved with a rattle can and good top.coat.

 

[C.Killmaster]

a lot of folks seem to havr a problem with the Savage tupperware but I'm not one of them. The only ones Ive ever noticed a problem with were the ones on heavy barreled long actions and then only with bi pod on the front stud which caused flex into the barrel under recoil. The dual pillar bedded ones are sturdy units that allow torque tuning and pretty high torque to the action screws without crushing the escutions and wood like one of the softer Boyds laminate units without pillars. Also theyre weather, ding and almost idiot/abuse proof. Asthetics are easily improved with a rattle can and good top.coat.

Mine is dual pillar. I don't really mind the current stock, I'm just not sure what it will look like putting a sporter barrel into a bull barrel stock. I'm also concerned about having a big gap for crap to get into while toting it through the woods.

 

[earlthegoat2]

On a recent build of mine, I ended up going with the economical plastic stock the lower end Savages come with because of its light weight. I’m a lefty too and found it on eBay. Just have to make sure you get the right one for stagger feed or center feed. Mine was center feed.

 

[C.Killmaster]

On a recent build of mine, I ended up going with the economical plastic stock the lower end Savages come with because of its light weight. I’m a lefty too and found it on eBay. Just have to make sure you get the right one for stagger feed or center feed. Mine was center feed.

How do you know whether it's stagger or center?

 

[earlthegoat2]

How do you know whether it's stagger or center?

Open the bolt. Center feed has the mag lips closer together and in the center. The follower will have a single curve.

On the stagger feed the lips are more towards the outside and the follower has a double shelf profile. When you load cartridges in you will be able to see the one on top and the one below it but that one will be off to the side

This really only matters when stocks are swapped around. The magazine box is different. I haven’t researched it or inspected them closely enough to tell if one can be modified easily to work with the other.

Here is the only rifle I have handy. It is stagger feed. You can see the round below and off to the side.

 

[C.Killmaster]

Open the bolt. Center feed has the mag lips closer together and in the center. The follower will have a single curve.

On the stagger feed the lips are more towards the outside and the follower has a double shelf profile. When you load cartridges in you will be able to see the one on top and the one below it but that one will be off to the side

This really only matters when stocks are swapped around. The magazine box is different. I haven’t researched it or inspected them closely enough to tell if one can be modified easily to work with the other.

Here is the only rifle I have handy. It is stagger feed. You can see the round below and off to the side.

View attachment 1178488

Thanks! Mine is stagger feed. I'm having trouble finding left handed stocks that will fit the 4.275 actions screw spacing.

 

[bullgator]

Cerokote the action and check out Stocky’s for a selection of stocks.

 

[bighonkinjeep]

Thanks! Mine is stagger feed. I'm having trouble finding left handed stocks that will fit the 4.275 actions screw spacing.

Just use a right handed stock then fill the bolt cutout with epoxy like JB weld or similar. I drilled a couple of small holes around inside the existing bolt cutout so the epoxy could get in there and create a mechanical lock and put masking tape across the existing bolt cutout gap inside and out to hold the epoxy in place till it dried. Inside the tape made a mold for the the epoxy fill that matched the stock profile perfectly. A little filing of the finished epoxy at the top is all that was necessary. Then put the action in the stock and marked where to make my new left handed bolt cutout. This can be done with a file a dremel or any other suitable tool as the synthetic material is fairly easy to remove. Its a really easy project to make a right handed stock a lefty. That was a right handed detachable box mag staggerfeed stock on my carbine weight and bulk reduction project. Heres pics of where I filled and cut a new bolt cutout to fit a lefty action.

 

[C.Killmaster]

Just use a right handed stock then fill the bolt cutout with epoxy like JB weld or similar. I drilled a couple of small holes around inside the existing bolt cutout so the epoxy could get in there and create a mechanical lock and put masking tape across the existing bolt cutout gap inside and out to hold the epoxy in place till it dried. Inside the tape made a mold for the the epoxy fill that matched the stock profile perfectly. A little filing of the finished epoxy at the top is all that was necessary. Then put the action in the stock and marked where to make my new left handed bolt cutout. This can be done with a file a dremel or any other suitable tool as the synthetic material is fairly easy to remove. Its a really easy project to make a right handed stock a lefty. That was a right handed detachable box mag staggerfeed stock on my carbine weight and bulk reduction project. Heres pics of where I filled and cut a new bolt cutout to fit a lefty action.View attachment 1178615View attachment 1178614

That's awesome! Thanks for the idea and glad to see a first hand example. Hopefully that will expand my stock options. I love projects like that anyway.