Ok… total newbie… am I ok so far?

[Jim Boyd]

Tumbled brass for about 3 hours, it was pretty rank. Had been reloaded before in 2012 by a buddy of mine and shot at various times over the last 10 years.

All was bought new and cycled through the same Savage 7-08.

So, this will be the second reloading of these cases.

Installed correct shell holder.

Installed Hornady quick lock device and put Lee decapping / resize die in. Screwed the die down til it bottomed on the shell holder, lowered ram and went in 1/3 more turn.

Liberally lubed all cases and ran them through the press. Some cycled slightly more easily than the others.

Cleaned all the primer pockets but the tool did not make them shiny bright.

Dumped all the brass back in the tumbler and gonna let it run a few more hours.

What did I screw up?

Is the brass properly sized and ready to be measured and trimmed to length?

Many many thanks !

I am super excited.

 

[JeffinPTC]

Looks about right but,
Liberally lubed?
Too much can cause problems. Like clogging the vent hole.
Lots of discussion here
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=too+much+lube+when+reloading&t=brave&ia=web

I arrange my bottlenecks with the case mouth forward and spray lightly so a little goes in the mouth. Or get out the vise grips and spend a minute removing a stuck 30-06.

 

[bullgator]

Make sure you check the primer pockets and flash holes for any stuck media.

The 1/3 turn seems like a lot of overcam. I usually do 1/8” to maybe a 1/4 turn at most.

You’re right on track.

 

[menhadenman]

Only problem is you need more stuff now ? it’s worse than fishing trust me

 

[bullgator]

Only problem is you need more stuff now ? it’s worse than fishing trust me

We can help him spend his money…….

 

[menhadenman]

Tumbled brass for about 3 hours, it was pretty rank. Had been reloaded before in 2012 by a buddy of mine and shot at various times over the last 10 years.

All was bought new and cycled through the same Savage 7-08.

So, this will be the second reloading of these cases.

Installed correct shell holder.

Installed Hornady quick lock device and put Lee decapping / resize die in. Screwed the die down til it bottomed on the shell holder, lowered ram and went in 1/3 more turn.

Liberally lubed all cases and ran them through the press. Some cycled slightly more easily than the others.

Cleaned all the primer pockets but the tool did not make them shiny bright.

Dumped all the brass back in the tumbler and gonna let it run a few more hours.

What did I screw up?

Is the brass properly sized and ready to be measured and trimmed to length?

Many many thanks !

I am super excited.

View attachment 1173483View attachment 1173484

Only other thought besides spending more money is I’ve never tumbled after sizing. Just primed, powder, then bullet. Cleaning the primer pocket is overrated but one of our more experienced guys may say otherwise.

 

[Jester896]

A primer pocket uniformer may do a better job of cleaning the primer pocket than a brush. I don't think that Lyman tool has one in it. So there is one new tool you may pick up

Tumbling after sizing is the best way to get the lub off after sizing. You said it was rank, but it still may have been good enough to size if it didn't have sand in it. I didn't see it so you would be the best judge of that. That may have saved you a step but certainly not an error.

If you didn't get a stuck case in the die and don't have dimples in the shoulders the amount of lube you used is fine.

If all of the brass was fired in your 7-08 you may not have needed to push the shoulders back as far as you did with your method of die set up. It only needed about .002 to chamber well "in your gun". 1/3 turn can be a bunch! Another tool you may need to pick up is a case comparator and the one Hornady has is relatively inexpensive for setting up your headspace better and is easy to use...so there is 2 tools

If it has been fired twice I would have annealed it before sizing it...that will also give you better brass life. There is a big tool you may pick up or send it out to be done.

your probably good to go

 

[35 Whelen]

I do everything you did then trim and de-bur then back in the tumbler.

 

[Jim Boyd]

We can help him spend his money…….

don’t let the clothes fool you… I got plenty of money!

 

[Jim Boyd]

your probably good to go

Your counsel is wise, sir.

The Lyman tool has a metal round bit with a flat blade that cleans the primer hole. It also has what I would call a small reamer that is apparently used to remove primer stake mark? I used the former and not the latter.

I also used a larger size torch tip cleaner to make sure the holes were not restricted. It did not enlarge the holes, just made sure they were open and uniformly removed any debris.

Will do that last step again before I prime (when I can find some primers!).


Many thanks

 

[Ruger#3]

don’t let the clothes fool you… I got plenty of money!

Will do that last step again before I prime (when I can find some primers!).

Having money and looking for primers go together like a hand and a glove.

 

[bullgator]

don’t let the clothes fool you… I got plenty of money!

Good……then we’ve got plenty of ideas!

 

[Jester896]

The Lyman tool has a metal round bit with a flat blade that cleans the primer hole. It also has what I would call a small reamer that is apparently used to remove primer stake mark? I used the former and not the latter.

yes Sir, it is used to remove the crimp and will lightly clean the primer pocket like the other one. I use an RCBS primer pocket reamer and it will do what you want and may even fit in the Lyman handle you have. It does a much better job. It is actually called a primer pocket uniformer. It makes sure all of your pockets are the same depth to uniformly seat all of your primers. They make a small and large pocket versions.

If you get close in your travels give me a shout and pick up a couple of packs. I think I have CCI, Federal and Winchester.

 

[killerv]

I've never had much success with the primer pocket brushes, I use the small or large primer pocket tools to clean them up. About the only time they will be real shiny and bright are the first time you uniform them. After that, just clean them out.

When doing primer pockets are new brass or a bunch of brass at once, I may put it in a cordless drill.

I also take a brush that fits the size of the neck and clean that neck out well.

Take compressed air and blow the case out also before priming.

Sounds like you are on the right track, I'd probably back off some on the camming, you just want it to barely break over when fl sizing...just enough to feel it happening.

Dont lube too much, I use a spray lube and let it dry on the outside of the cases, i use lube on a qtip for the inside of the necks. Lubing to much will clog up your dies and dimple your brass.

After these have been fired through your rifle, you can think about only neck sizing and partial sizing the next few loads. I dont trim mine back again until they are too long.

I too load for a 708, great round.

 

[Geezer Ray]

Wet tumble with stainless media and don't worry about the primer pockets, they will be shinny newlooking. More money spent, tumbler and stainless media, media separator,,,,, priceless.

 

[menhadenman]

Wet tumble with stainless media and don't worry about the primer pockets, they will be shinny newlooking. More money spent, tumbler and stainless media, media separator,,,,, priceless.

These folks converted me last month @Jim Boyd, the wet tumble is pretty daggone nice.

Keep an eye on Powder Valley, Natchez, Midsouth, and Midway - they've been getting primers in every few days. You'll pay about $100 plus hazmat and shipping but it'd be worth bending over just for one case to get started.

 

[Elkbane]

Jim,
Tumbling won't clean the primer pocket.
This is a primer pocket uniformer. It cleans out the carbon and sets the primer pocket to the correct depth. Suggest you buy one...
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Primer-Pocket-Uniformer-Small/dp/B000N8MWP0

You won't really know if you have your dies set up right until you get one of these and learn how to use it by measuring cases.
https://www.hornady.com/headspace-bushings#!/

It clamps to your calipers so that you can see how far you are pushing the shoulder of the case back during sizing. It's fairly common for commercial loads to have some pretty generous headspace - it other words, they are sized short to be able to fit in most any chamber.

You'll get a feel for this when you measure a commercial round before and after firing. The key measurement is the distance from the base of the case (the bolt face)to the mid-point of the shoulder on your chamber. You won't know what that measurement is until you fire a case in your chamber, let it expand with firing, then measure it before sizing. You may need to then readjust your dies to only move the shoulder back 2-3 thousands - that way you aren't "overworking" your brass.

Think about what happens when you put a case into the die. The ram contacts the base of the case and is held by the shellholder; as the case enters the die the expanded case sidewalls then come into contact with the die sidewalls, compressing them inward. Brass, being elastic, first elongates (its trapped radially by the die sidewalls and the ram at the base) until the case shoulder contacts the die shoulder, and then shoulder is pushed rearward until the ram throw is complete. You can adjust the case length (base to shoulder) to better match your chamber dimensions by how far your dies are turned into the press.

People who "neck size only" have zero gap between the case shoulder and the chamber shoulder - they don't bump the shoulder back at all. My preference is for full length resize with 2 thou gap for target rifles and 3 thou gap for my hunting rifles. It's pretty typical for me to see a 8-11 thou gap in commercial ammo....

Let me know if you need a better description.

And all I use for lube is Redding Imperial die wax. Rub a small dab on every case with a q-tip, lay 5 cases on a lube pad and roll to distribute. After you get your lube pad loaded up with a little wax, you can just put lube on every other case (the two outside ones and the middle one) - the other two will pick up lube from the lubed ones and the pad. Never stuck a case with this product, and it rubs off the sized case with a blue shop towel.

Elkbane

 

[Jim Boyd]

Jim,
Tumbling won't clean the primer pocket.
This is a primer pocket uniformer. It cleans out the carbon and sets the primer pocket to the correct depth. Suggest you buy one...
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Primer-Pocket-Uniformer-Small/dp/B000N8MWP0

You won't really know if you have your dies set up right until you get one of these and learn how to use it by measuring cases.
https://www.hornady.com/headspace-bushings#!/

It clamps to your calipers so that you can see how far you are pushing the shoulder of the case back during sizing. It's fairly common for commercial loads to have some pretty generous headspace - it other words, they are sized short to be able to fit in most any chamber.

You'll get a feel for this when you measure a commercial round before and after firing. The key measurement is the distance from the base of the case (the bolt face)to the mid-point of the shoulder on your chamber. You won't know what that measurement is until you fire a case in your chamber, let it expand with firing, then measure it before sizing. You may need to then readjust your dies to only move the shoulder back 2-3 thousands - that way you aren't "overworking" your brass.

Think about what happens when you put a case into the die. The ram contacts the base of the case and is held by the shellholder; as the case enters the die the expanded case sidewalls then come into contact with the die sidewalls, compressing them inward. Brass, being elastic, first elongates (its trapped radially by the die sidewalls and the ram at the base) until the case shoulder contacts the die shoulder, and then shoulder is pushed rearward until the ram throw is complete. You can adjust the case length (base to shoulder) to better match your chamber dimensions by how far your dies are turned into the press.

People who "neck size only" have zero gap between the case shoulder and the chamber shoulder - they don't bump the shoulder back at all. My preference is for full length resize with 2 thou gap for target rifles and 3 thou gap for my hunting rifles. It's pretty typical for me to see a 8-11 thou gap in commercial ammo....

Let me know if you need a better description.

And all I use for lube is Redding Imperial die wax. Rub a small dab on every case with a q-tip, lay 5 cases on a lube pad and roll to distribute. After you get your lube pad loaded up with a little wax, you can just put lube on every other case (the two outside ones and the middle one) - the other two will pick up lube from the lubed ones and the pad. Never stuck a case with this product, and it rubs off the sized case with a blue shop towel.

Elkbane

Very much appreciated.

You probably also just generated about 10 other questions, sir!!!

 

[Dub]

Very much appreciated.

You probably also just generated about 10 other questions, sir!!!

That is the way of things, brother....all is well.

You are in great company here....we have folks like us learning as we go and fortunately there are stellar mentors here to guide us and cheer us on.

 

[rmp]

Jim,
Tumbling won't clean the primer pocket.
This is a primer pocket uniformer. It cleans out the carbon and sets the primer pocket to the correct depth. Suggest you buy one...
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Primer-Pocket-Uniformer-Small/dp/B000N8MWP0

You won't really know if you have your dies set up right until you get one of these and learn how to use it by measuring cases.
https://www.hornady.com/headspace-bushings#!/

It clamps to your calipers so that you can see how far you are pushing the shoulder of the case back during sizing. It's fairly common for commercial loads to have some pretty generous headspace - it other words, they are sized short to be able to fit in most any chamber.

You'll get a feel for this when you measure a commercial round before and after firing. The key measurement is the distance from the base of the case (the bolt face)to the mid-point of the shoulder on your chamber. You won't know what that measurement is until you fire a case in your chamber, let it expand with firing, then measure it before sizing. You may need to then readjust your dies to only move the shoulder back 2-3 thousands - that way you aren't "overworking" your brass.

Think about what happens when you put a case into the die. The ram contacts the base of the case and is held by the shellholder; as the case enters the die the expanded case sidewalls then come into contact with the die sidewalls, compressing them inward. Brass, being elastic, first elongates (its trapped radially by the die sidewalls and the ram at the base) until the case shoulder contacts the die shoulder, and then shoulder is pushed rearward until the ram throw is complete. You can adjust the case length (base to shoulder) to better match your chamber dimensions by how far your dies are turned into the press.

People who "neck size only" have zero gap between the case shoulder and the chamber shoulder - they don't bump the shoulder back at all. My preference is for full length resize with 2 thou gap for target rifles and 3 thou gap for my hunting rifles. It's pretty typical for me to see a 8-11 thou gap in commercial ammo....

Let me know if you need a better description.

And all I use for lube is Redding Imperial die wax. Rub a small dab on every case with a q-tip, lay 5 cases on a lube pad and roll to distribute. After you get your lube pad loaded up with a little wax, you can just put lube on every other case (the two outside ones and the middle one) - the other two will pick up lube from the lubed ones and the pad. Never stuck a case with this product, and it rubs off the sized case with a blue shop towel.

Elkbane

I was bumping shoulders before I knew gauges existed. Just doing it by feel on closing the bolt and adjusting the die in small increments. Taught a lot of folks how to size that way.
Your post had to be the best explanation I’ve ever read. Excellent post.
Kudos to you sir!