Reduced Engine Power

elfiii

Admin
Staff member
Which is where we are at.
We've replaced a lot of parts already.
The SO is fed up with it right now, he doesn't even want to hear about it :smash:

Sounds like it's time to cut your losses but now is a terrible time to be buying a vehicle. Everything is overpriced.
 

Stob

Useles Billy’s Uncle StepDaddy.
This sure sounds like a wiring issue to me. Wiring issues can be relatively inexpensive to repair but finding the wiring issue can be very expensive as labor is the most expensive part on a vehicle.
 

SarahFair

Senior Member
Sounds like it's time to cut your losses but now is a terrible time to be buying a vehicle. Everything is overpriced.
I know. :cautious:
$10,000+ for a small/mid size SUV with 200k miles?!
People have lost their minds.

We're crossing our fingers and going to look at an auction next week where some county is turning over their vehicle fleet.
 

SarahFair

Senior Member
This sure sounds like a wiring issue to me. Wiring issues can be relatively inexpensive to repair but finding the wiring issue can be very expensive as labor is the most expensive part on a vehicle.
That's what I'm thinking it is as well
 

elfiii

Admin
Staff member
I know. :cautious:
$10,000+ for a small/mid size SUV with 200k miles?!
People have lost their minds.

We're crossing our fingers and going to look at an auction next week where some county is turning over their vehicle fleet.

I got a close friend in the same boat. 2 year old Tacomas are selling for as much as a new one. You have to get back around the 2012 model year to get a price break below $20K and that's with a boatload of miles on them. It's nuts.
 

Stob

Useles Billy’s Uncle StepDaddy.
I know. :cautious:
$10,000+ for a small/mid size SUV with 200k miles?!
People have lost their minds.

We're crossing our fingers and going to look at an auction next week where some county is turning over their vehicle fleet.
You'd be surprised to know that used car prices have for the most part come way down since December. I mean way down.

Having said this, rising interest rates may change that.
 

Stob

Useles Billy’s Uncle StepDaddy.
The other thing that I was thinking Sarah was an O2 sensor. It happened on my 2000 Toyota pickup but it was not on and off again. It did however cause high rev and low power issues. I found a youtube video in it's infancy that led me to it. I am no car mechanic but it was over fueling or under fueling the engine.
 

transfixer

Senior Member
Agree but getting into the parts swapping business gets expensive quick and you don't necessarily solve the problem.

I'm not talking about just swapping parts, just suggesting what I've seen with similar systems, the vehicle should be checked by a competent diagnostic/driveability tech , if that hasn't been done so far ? and many, if not most general repair techs are not well versed in driveability diagnostics, going on 37yrs in the automotive repair business and I can count the ones I know on one hand !
 

trial&error

Senior Member
This link hints that they were using the same faulty ignition relay years after the 2004 recall. Under $20 part.
https://www.carcomplaints.com/Buick/Rendezvous/2006/engine/shuts_down_while_driving.shtml


NHTSA Campaign ID Number
05V157000

Recall Summary​

ON CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, CONTAMINATION ON IGNITION RELAY CONTACTS CAN CAUSE HIGH RESISTANCE. THIS CAN AFFECT SIGNALS TO THE POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE AND, COULD CAUSE INTERMITTENT VEHICLE STALLS AT ANY TIME.
 
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SarahFair

Senior Member

transfixer

Senior Member
We have customers all the time that try to do their own diagnostics, most via youtube,,,lol,, and for simple issues that is fine, but when you're dealing with electronic computer controlled systems simply guessing and throwing parts at it can get expensive pretty quickly, and if you don't get lucky in doing that, that is simply wasted money and labor, I could write a book on situations I've seen like that, and in the end the customer usually realizes it was cheaper to take it to a professional to begin with.
 

Artfuldodger

Senior Member
We have customers all the time that try to do their own diagnostics, most via youtube,,,lol,, and for simple issues that is fine, but when you're dealing with electronic computer controlled systems simply guessing and throwing parts at it can get expensive pretty quickly, and if you don't get lucky in doing that, that is simply wasted money and labor, I could write a book on situations I've seen like that, and in the end the customer usually realizes it was cheaper to take it to a professional to begin with.
Somewhat related is when a person gets a sensor code and immediately replaces the sensor. Usually the sensor is doing its job and does not need to be replaced. An O2 sensor is a good one for this example.
I mean it could be a faulty sensor but it might just be reporting the condition or fault that is is designed to do.
Likewise whatever is putting a car in "limp mode" may be doing what it is suppose to do.
 

transfixer

Senior Member
Somewhat related is when a person gets a sensor code and immediately replaces the sensor. Usually the sensor is doing its job and does not need to be replaced. An O2 sensor is a good one for this example.
I mean it could be a faulty sensor but it might just be reporting the condition or fault that is is designed to do.
Likewise whatever is putting a car in "limp mode" may be doing what it is suppose to do.

exactly, an engine code is the result of the computer not seeing something it wanted to see , sometimes it is the part the code refers to, but most times there is something else going on that made that sensor or part report a fault,

perfect example are catalytic converter codes, usually P0430 or similar, parts stores will tell you that you need a new catalytic converter , which might be true, but the converter went bad for a reason, which is usually too much unburned fuel getting to it, which can be any number of things, simply replacing a converter without fixing the root cause of failure will just result in you replacing the converter again in the near future ,
 

mguthrie

**# 1 Fan**OHIO STATE**
I just had this same issue with my 05 suburban. It ended up being a bad ground connection in the throttle body connector. I replaced the throttle body,pcm and throttle positioning sensor before I had it towed to my brothers shop. He found the faulty ground in under an hour. I spent about a $1000 on parts and towed. Smh
 

SarahFair

Senior Member
It hasn't done it again since I posted. :huh:
I'm a glutton for punishment and went through the car wash again today to see if it starts up again.

At this point we aren't going to invest anymore money into it as we are looking to pay cash for a replacement and don't want to waste another dollar in an attempt of avoiding of a car payment.

Anyone need a Buick? :pop:
 

beretta

Senior Member
We have customers all the time that try to do their own diagnostics, most via youtube,,,lol,, and for simple issues that is fine, but when you're dealing with electronic computer controlled systems simply guessing and throwing parts at it can get expensive pretty quickly, and if you don't get lucky in doing that, that is simply wasted money and labor, I could write a book on situations I've seen like that, and in the end the customer usually realizes it was cheaper to take it to a professional to begin with.
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Doug B.

Senior Member
EGR valve ? They carbon up and stick from time to time. Run a can of Sea Foam engine treatment thru the tank. It helped my wifes Buick tremendously when the MPG fell way off. It will clean the whole system, maybe two cans , one in each tank at fill up.

An Evap problem will usually throw the dummy light on, a sign of Evap problems is the vehicle is hard to fuel up...the pump will keep kicking off. That doesn't usually affect the starting ability tho in my experience. My Silverado has a Evap cannister and piston located right in front of the gas tank, (another under the hood much like yours) a cracked hose or clogged cannister will trip the light. If its sucking air from a cracked line, it might very well show a "reduced engine power" code.
What year is your Silverado?
 
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