Jim Boyd
Senior Member
Well taken, sir.my buddy's has landscape material across it to keep the dirt more together/compacted so it doesn't scatter the dirt when it gets strikes. I have seen old tires stacked on top of the dirt/cloth too.
Well taken, sir.my buddy's has landscape material across it to keep the dirt more together/compacted so it doesn't scatter the dirt when it gets strikes. I have seen old tires stacked on top of the dirt/cloth too.
Earth (not sand) filled plastic barrels works well or it worked well at my place anyway. You can stack them on top of each other 3 across and 2 high. If you want to layer them up, you can offset some barrels behind them to make sure nothing slips through between two barrels. If they start getting too shot up, you can rotate and alternate the barrel that gets shot the most.I have two ideas.
Felled trees we don’t have……
First idea is simply use the FEL and pile up a 6’ dirt backstop. That will require occasional refresh but that is not a problem. This is what we did on our previous 200 yard range.
Second idea is to auger 4 holes and drop sections of telephone poles in them and use 2x8’s front and back - and fill with dirt between the boards - maybe 24” of dirt.
Second option is harder but sounds better.
Open to all suggestions!
I don’t have much clay but can make a berm.
The hill, I don’t have either.
May make some staggered smaller berms at 1, 2 and 300 etc.
I’ve seen a backstop made similar to this using cross ties . It was kinda like your telephone pole idea except he used the cross ties in place of the dirtI have two ideas.
Felled trees we don’t have……
First idea is simply use the FEL and pile up a 6’ dirt backstop. That will require occasional refresh but that is not a problem. This is what we did on our previous 200 yard range.
Second idea is to auger 4 holes and drop sections of telephone poles in them and use 2x8’s front and back - and fill with dirt between the boards - maybe 24” of dirt.
Second option is harder but sounds better.
Open to all suggestions!
And then people wonder why you charge $300.00 an hourNot trying to hijack but I noticed a few people asked about operating costs on the mulchers. Attached is a picture of mine.
View attachment 1285830
The way I figure it out is you've got the cost per hour (I calculate based on a 3k hour lifespan. I will hopefully get more than that but I use that number to be conservative. They only warranty to 2500 last I checked).
Then there is wear parts, the biggest being teeth. There are two kinds of teeth. The "knife" style teeth I have, I count on them living for 40 hours. per side (they are reversible). They could live a good bit longer but that's what I figure on. The "carbide" teeth last a lot longer and I bank on those lasting about 200 hours. They mulch a little slower and final product is a little more coarse. What I used just depends on the job. My machine has 30 teeth. A new set is about 1800 bucks. You can get the chinese ones cheaper but the steel isn't the same.
Then there's diesel. If I run the machine for a full 8 hours, its about 35 gallons. I count on using a tube of grease per day. May not use it all but also might.
That's mostly it. Oil changes, new tracks, hydraulic fluid, DEF, that all happens at infrequent intervals
@Jim Boyd You've got a good friend leaving you the keys. I don't know if I could let my friends borrow mine. I'd be worried all day they'd roll it over or vacuum up a dog or who knows what
Looks good Mr Jim!
Built one for someone years ago for their 500 yd range. If I read your post correctly, you'll be about 8' off the ground. If so, I highly (no pun intended) suggest the addition of diagonal bracing to add torsional rigidity to your structure. The least little bit of movement makes a difference. The one I built was 12' x 16' and 7' off the ground if I remember correctly. We used 9 6 x 6's under that building, buried 4' in concrete. The posts were notched for the floor structure(2 x 10) to rest on them and thru bolted. 3/4" Advantech flooring and conventional 16" o.c. construction for walls and roof. RB & B siding and metal roofing. After all that, still had to add the diagonal bracing to reduce movement........but it worked.
even if it is only raised 2' off of the ground you wouldn't want someone walking on the deck while you were shooting from past experiences
Jim, you've got this. You've got the knowledge and know how. Do your thing and enjoy the outcome, or rather the out going.........bullets! Nothing like shooting at distance to test your skills and equipment. But please be careful, it's awfully addicting. Just saying.Agreed 100%.
This is not gonna be perfect, like laying on terra firma.
I understand that a platform has inherent movement.
Yep, I will tell everyone to hold still while I am missing…. Um…. Well… shooting at the target!
I have some buddies that are shooters, I will judge the project based on their feedback.
This joker will serve double duty as a high end deer stand where there will be lots of opportunities! Maybe we will make a notch system, flag system etc!!!!!
Jim, you've got this. You've got the knowledge and know how. Do your thing and enjoy the outcome, or rather the out going.........bullets! Nothing like shooting at distance to test your skills and equipment. But please be careful, it's awfully addicting. Just saying.