DIY Wood Box Blind Or Millennium Buck Hut?

fmfa0801

Member
Ive always hunted climber tree stands in the past and Im looking to use a tower blind this year. Im debating on if I should build a wooden tower blind OR a 6' high wood platform with a see through ground blind OR do the Millennium Buck Hut? I will need something that will hunt 2 adults or If we bring our kids.

Wood blind: The platform would be 6' high to the floor. The actual blind onto would be 6' L x 5' W x 6' T. I would be around $520 (plus tax) for lumber & metal roof. I may be able to knock a few bucks off buying wood or making it 4' wide. I would still need to buy screws/bolts & possibly the metal leg brackets if I want to use them (extra $70-110). That is not including any type of window (glass, plastic or wood flip up).

Wood Base w/ see through ground blind: Cost around $170-200 (plus tax & screws/bolts) for the lumber to make a 6' H platform & about $120-140 for one of those see through ground blind on top.

The Millennium Buck hut: $749-849 The inside of the blind its self is 7'H x 7' 4"W x 4'D. The platform to the floor is 8' 8" high.

https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/mil...VQ-TjBx20gAxHEAQYASABEgIud_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Here's a review I found online to give you an idea of it inside & out.


What would you guys do? The least favorite would be the see through ground blind on a platform. I do like the Millennium Buck Hut a lot esspeccially since it would only be about $200-250 more than a DIY wood blind. Only negative I see is I would have to take the blind off during the off season.
 

Lilly001

Senior Member
I think you are on the correct path.
I would like to see the material the buck hut is made of.
I have gone with the self built but I don’t think it was any cheaper.
 

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fmfa0801

Member
What size is that stand you built? It looks good. The Buck Hut has a lot of options with windows when I comes to shooting which I like. From what little I have found online seems like the biggest issue Is fading from the sunlight or It won't support a bunch of snow (not worried about that here).
 

Lilly001

Senior Member
4x6
Mine is faced with fence pickets because that was the cheapest treated wood available.
I think the total cost was around what the buck blind is.
Also mine took a tractor with a pallet fork on the loader to move into place.
 

fmfa0801

Member
Few more pics I found. All of the horizontal bars by the windows adjust up/down for a shooting rest by lifting the lever on each end.
 

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Lilly001

Senior Member
I like that the buck blind is an all inclusive package.
I had to build the base and steps for mine on site.
I also like the ease of assembly.
The durability of the fabric is my question.
Maybe someone who has had one for a couple seasons will chime in?
 

GeorgiaGlockMan

Senior Member
From my experience build your own. It will last longer and you can add whatever you want.
I am done messing with wood blinds.

I have hunted out of them for decades and then went with a sealed manufacturer blind.

No comparison for me.

At nearly 60 yrs old, I am appreciating the nice blinds and zero maintenance on any of the (5) that i have in +/- 7 yrs.

More expensive but definitely worth it on a 10° day.

Haven't had to deal with 1 owl roosting in a blind. No bugs can get in. Stays clean. Can leave stuff in there without it getting wet. Can hunt in the worst downpours without 1 drop of water on you.

I guess I got to a point after a few near misses building and trying to move wood blinds from lease to lease. It is dangerous and my non-working time is worth alot to me these days.

Good luck.
 

Deer Farmer

Senior Member
I have two of the Buck Huts, Very Nice and plenty of space for two chairs. I have the Millennium seats that mount in the floor. I also have several stick-built towers 10' high 8x4 they are permanent stands. The wood-built stands make a lot of noise, and the Buck huts will fade but after three years they have held up well.
 
My only concern with the buck hit style is how long will it be before they leak due to the suns affect on them drying out the fabrics. Would you have to treat them ? That I cannot answer
 

buckmanmike

Senior Member
Ive never bought prebuilt tower stands, but have built several. I cant give + or -s to which is better. BUT, Ive found stands 5' deep are much more comfortable to sit in all day. So which ever way you go, bigger the better.
Wish you success.
 

Jim Thompson

Live From The Tree
The soft sided tower blinds are great. We pull the material at the end of the year and leave the skeleton. We have used the Redneck without issues. The material is very heavy duty.

Whatever you do though dont buy the ghillie version. The material catches in the zippers and the mice use it for nests.

 

fmfa0801

Member
I have two of the Buck Huts, Very Nice and plenty of space for two chairs. I have the Millennium seats that mount in the floor. I also have several stick-built towers 10' high 8x4 they are permanent stands. The wood-built stands make a lot of noise, and the Buck huts will fade but after three years they have held up well.
Have you left the fabric part on the stand out for 3 years straight or do you take it off after each season? How does it do in heavy rain? Does it leak? Does it hold the heat with a Mr. Buddy Heater?

My only concern with the buck hit style is how long will it be before they leak due to the suns affect on them drying out the fabrics. Would you have to treat them ? That I cannot answer
I would only leave the blind material on from Sept until im done hunting. I would also spray the water repellent on to help with rain and fading. I would hope it would last awhile doing it that way?
The soft sided tower blinds are great. We pull the material at the end of the year and leave the skeleton. We have used the Redneck without issues. The material is very heavy duty.

Whatever you do though dont buy the ghillie version. The material catches in the zippers and the mice use it for nests.

The Redneck looks nice but looks like about double the price by the time you buy the blind & platform.
 

Jim Thompson

Live From The Tree
Have you left the fabric part on the stand out for 3 years straight or do you take it off after each season? How does it do in heavy rain? Does it leak? Does it hold the heat with a Mr. Buddy Heater?


I would only leave the blind material on from Sept until im done hunting. I would also spray the water repellent on to help with rain and fading. I would hope it would last awhile doing it that way?


The Redneck looks nice but looks like about double the price by the time you buy the blind & platform.


Definitely more expensive but a bigger footprint. Millennium makes great products so if layout fits and the money fits the budget, jump on it. You wont be disappointed.
 

ryanh487

Senior Member
Alternatively you could build a 2x4 frame on the platform and then use used billboard canvas as a shell. I've seen them for $100 for 2x 14'x48' canvas tarps. That should be enough material to cover 2 blinds from each tarp.
 

fmfa0801

Member
Ok after looking at lumber online at Lowes It's a lot better price than before. This is me buying longer boards to cut to save money. This is just for lumber & brown corigated roofing.

6' x 5' blind $409+ tax
8' x 4' blind $349+ tax

Both include (4) 4x4x6' post to elevate it. The blind would be all 2x4s using 1/2" OBS ply wood for walls, floor & roof. The platform would be 2x6 all the way around with (2) 2x6x6 running under the floor. I would have to brace the door made out of OSB, buy hinges, screws/bolts, make flip up wood windows & paint. This has me leaning towards a DIY now :ROFLMAO:
 
Ok after looking at lumber online at Lowes It's a lot better price than before. This is me buying longer boards to cut to save money. This is just for lumber & brown corigated roofing.

6' x 5' blind $409+ tax
8' x 4' blind $349+ tax

Both include (4) 4x4x6' post to elevate it. The blind would be all 2x4s using 1/2" OBS ply wood for walls, floor & roof. The platform would be 2x6 all the way around with (2) 2x6x6 running under the floor. I would have to brace the door made out of OSB, buy hinges, screws/bolts, make flip up wood windows & paint. This has me leaning towards a DIY now :ROFLMAO:
Another way to save money is to rip your two by fours in half.. that’s the way I build my box stands. Matter of fact I’m building one now. I ripped 5 1/4 boards in half then ripped the round edge off. So they are 2x1/2 inches by 3/4 inch. I had this from a 8 by 18 pressure treated porch I built last year so I’m using all the Pt wood to build the box stand with. It makes them lighter when you’re pulling up the walls. I build all my box stands at home. I build the walls in section to be put up and taken down and moved easily
 

fmfa0801

Member
For the amount of time it would take to cut the 2x4 down the middle with a 7" hand circular saw I would rather just spend the extra money :LOL: Maybe if I already had a table saw it would be worth it
 
It would. no taller than your building yours it won’t matter the weight as you’re not 15 foot up. Light weight is key up top. Keeps the stand from being to top heavy and blowing over. With the price of wood time invested in them. I won’t them to be able to be moved fairly easily. Woods always changing and makes it easier to adapt to timber land always cutting etc. keep us posted
 

Deer Farmer

Senior Member
My Buck Huts have stayed out all year with no issues except fading. Always dry inside during rain. Very warm inside during winter and archery season! I have some new tower stands I have built out of the chemical crates for Missouri winds 20-60mph.
 
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