/ rant salty crusty wiring on boat

[WayneB]

So, I've been pecking away at nag items on the boat and taking care of some major issues as well.
Got the powerhead back from the rebuilder, he mentioned that the starter was 'dragging'. Hmm, never had an issue before, and rebuilt the starter about 2 years ago. Order one up.
Order up new 6 ga cable and lugs, freshen that up..
Warning horn been hit or miss, ordered up a new one of those..
New steering cable and helm, been needing that..
Re-route the transducer lead, make it clean and tidy..
New Gauges I've had for 2 years finally getting installed..
New pitot line for speedo, new primary wire and a fuse block to clean up under the console..
Repaint the engine while it's at rebuilder..
Add some quick connects and a battery switch, and reterminate wiring to navigation lights and bilge pump.

All goes well, no issues until I replace engine lower cowling.. all of a sudden, no start no beep.
Has 12v in all the right places, except solenoid trigger lead, which has 3.6v.
Perplexing as I've not changed any wiring at the engine...
Now the engine is a 1994 2 smoker, so I had already ordered another harness as the insulation was crepey looking, like a 24 year old wiring harness would look like if left in the sun, and exposed to salt water.
New harness should arrive monday the 2nd, but I want to get back at the boring break in and spend the day on the river, so I look and trace out the 12v + lead from the + side of the solenoid to the terminal block and back. 12v everywhere; terminal end, both sides of fuse, check trigger side of solenoid, 3.4v again.
Liberally applied some choice expletives and started tugging on wires when the positive lead just parts off. No conductor in the insulation, just insulation...
Cut back to wire, voltage checks but wire is almost powder so cut back some more til I find real wire. Splice and test; all good.
One miserable 5 inch piece of wire cost me 2 days of troubleshooting, exposing my wife and distant neighbors to some select expletives.
Now I have to reassemble the whole boat where I pulled out every last splice point, Rigging covers, radios, seats, etc.
On a good note, I can shop vac all the tree spooge while all the parts are hanging over the gunwales, tossed on ground beside the boat, and/or on workbench.

All over a crusty, salty 5 inch piece of wire hiding in plain sight.

 

[WayneB]

I should add that the 5 inch piece of wire had wire remnants inside the insulation, just enough to pass some voltage (3.4v), but would not carry the load applied to the trigger side of the solenoid. White/green crusty dusty wire fragments...
Hard to believe it hadn't caused a problem well before now.

 

[treemanjohn]

Break
Out
Another
Thousand

 

[mguthrie]

That's the main reason I don't own a boat. I'm no machanic

 

[WGASA]

Tinned wires & heat shrink on all "could get wet or damp terminal blocks" 3M scotch guard is good stuff, or any wires in a small boat.

 

[JackSprat]

Tinned wires & heat shrink on all "could get wet or damp terminal blocks" 3M scotch guard is good stuff, or any wires in a small boat.

My routine is a heat shrinkable butt connector, heat shrink tubing over that, and then Liquid Tape over the whole thing. It's a pain to have to put everything on in the correct order, but it works.

FWIW, current Coast Guard standards (AYBC standards) say soldered joints are a no-no on boat. Not like you're going to get a ticket, but if you have a big boat and it is surveyed it will be an issue.

 

[WayneB]

I re-rigged to AYBC standards and colors, Just installed the new engine harness and completed it just a bit ago.
A couple hours' trimming a 5lb baggies' worth of zip ties, and a fresh wash and wax, and the boat lives again.
I still cannot believe there was NO FUSE between battery and console.. There is now a 150A breaker to the 6 Ga wire to a fuse block under the console.
X2 on the liquid tape. Gramps taught me that back in the '70's.

 

[NOYDB]

Then it's ready for sale and you are ready for your next money hole.

 

[Lukikus2]

Then it's ready for sale and you are ready for your next money hole.

And whoever he sells it to won't have a problem with it ever My luck

So how is the new steering cable working?

 

[WayneB]

'She who must be obeyed' declared this project was 'for the grandbabies' so there will be no selling it off, at least not by us. This is one to be handed down to the kids for their little ones.
I needed to make sure that it was as close to new as I could get a 24 year old boat to get.
Can't have grands stranded ya know.

 

[notnksnemor]

'She who must be obeyed' declared this project was 'for the grandbabies' so there will be no selling it off, at least not by us. This is one to be handed down to the kids for their little ones.
I needed to make sure that it was as close to new as I could get a 24 year old boat to get.
Can't have grands stranded ya know.

Give 'em the boat and a lifetime membership to TowBoatUS.

You'll be money ahead.

 

[Lilly001]

My routine is a heat shrinkable butt connector, heat shrink tubing over that, and then Liquid Tape over the whole thing. It's a pain to have to put everything on in the correct order, but it works.

FWIW, current Coast Guard standards (AYBC standards) say soldered joints are a no-no on boat. Not like you're going to get a ticket, but if you have a big boat and it is surveyed it will be an issue.

I invested in a hydraulic wire crimper because of that.
I was surprised to learn that a proper crimp is much better than most soldered connections.

 

[Batjack]

I invested in a hydraulic wire crimper because of that.
I was surprised to learn that a proper crimp is much better than most soldered connections.

You board today?

 

[kingfish]

I have absolutely no skills at all in electrical. The last 3 boats I've had I have rewired all of them from start to finish. Like Mr. JackSprat, I use top of the line wire, connectors (all heat shrinkable), shrink tube and liquid tape. It is over kill times 10. I use separate buss bars for both positive and negative and put them on opposite sides under the console. I also rig so that a 62 year old broad shouldered guy can get to them without ending up in traction. All fuses are located, identified and accounted for in a rough drawing and I have a waterproof box for nothing but fuses, connectors etc. This way, when something goes south which it always does, I have a pretty good idea where to go to get it fixed quickly. On my boat, the inline bilge pump fuse and the inline that powers up the Garmin average a couple times a year blowing. I highly recommend doing it yourself. The confidence boost is awesome.

 

[Lilly001]

You board today?

I just looked at the original date.
When they list “similar threads” at the bottom of the page I often bite without looking at the original post date.