Scope ring help/torque

[RedClayRoots79]

I bought a Savage Axis XP .270 the end of last year because the deal was just too good.

Swapped the premounted Weaver scope on to a Ruger 10-22 and bought some standard rise Leupold rings and put Nikon's BDC 800 4 X 12 Tac scope on the Savage.

Mounted it. Bore sighted. Went to Johs Mtn and got on paper at 50 and had it dead on at 100 in a half box of shells.

Got home to clean, went to turn down magnification ring and the scope had moved foward in the rings and the magnification ring was touching the back of the barrel and wouldnt adjust.

I put the ring screws in tight as I felt safe. I didnt want to crimp scope tube. Couldnt tighten anymore by hand.

I also found that the standard height rings allow the bolt throw to contact the scope. Going to replace with mid rise rings for clearance of the bolt.

How much torque and do I need a torque wrench? Should I use locktite?

I like the gun for less than $400 all in. Great knock around rifle with the synthetic stock. Im looking to push it to some distance with the flat round.

Any advice? Thanks.

 

[Lilly001]

If I don’t have a torque wrench, I use the little wrenches that come with the rings and holding the short side I tighten it as much as I can.
otherwise I think it calls for 30 inch/lbs.

 

[killerv]

I use guntite on bases and windage only. The blue stuff. I believe leupold advises 22-25in/lbs for rings. I do a little more since ive had scopes slip at this setting. Degrease all bases/rings/in and around receiver holes and ring/base screws before hand. Oil can work its way into the threads and cause things to loosen up.

 

[killerv]

If I don’t have a torque wrench, I use the little wrenches that come with the rings and holding the short side I tighten it as much as I can.
otherwise I think it calls for 30 inch/lbs.

Yep, designed that way for a reason. I never had issues until i thought i was getting fancy by using a torque wrench. Now i give it a little extra with the supplied wrench after using the torque

 

[killerv]

And why dead on at 100 with a 270 if you are looking for distance? Id do atleast a 200yard zero with a 270

 

[280 Man]

You could lap the rings! I have mainly used Leupold rings and bases over the yrs. Degrease rings! They use the Torx screws and I've never had to used any Lock Tite on my screws and I've never had any slippage problems!

 

[nmurph]

Bed the scope with JB Weld, Marine-Tex, etc...that won't permanently change the diameter of the rings and doesn't require special tools, just your choice of bedding material and some clear shoe polish for a release agent.

Most rings are torqued to 15-20in/pds. It doesn't take much tension to hold a scope that fits the mounts properly.

I use blue Loc-Tite.

The Fat Wrench is a great tool. The dial gauge works pretty well is affordable. The digital costs more but is more precise.

 

[Gator89]

Wheeler Engineering Fat Wrench is handy for scopes and other gun tinkering.

https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-7109...ds=wheeler+engineering&qid=1581595367&sr=8-12



https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engi...ds=wheeler+engineering&qid=1581595421&sr=8-10

 

[Horns]

I’ve got a stupid question. Is the scope a 1” tube and the mounts for a 1” tube? Or 30 mm each? Just want to make sure that the mounts are correct for the scope is all

 

[spurrs and racks]

I bought a Savage Axis XP .270 the end of last year because the deal was just too good.

Swapped the premounted Weaver scope on to a Ruger 10-22 and bought some standard rise Leupold rings and put Nikon's BDC 800 4 X 12 Tac scope on the Savage.

Mounted it. Bore sighted. Went to Johs Mtn and got on paper at 50 and had it dead on at 100 in a half box of shells.

Got home to clean, went to turn down magnification ring and the scope had moved foward in the rings and the magnification ring was touching the back of the barrel and wouldnt adjust.

I put the ring screws in tight as I felt safe. I didnt want to crimp scope tube. Couldnt tighten anymore by hand.

I also found that the standard height rings allow the bolt throw to contact the scope. Going to replace with mid rise rings View attachment 1002751for clearance of the bolt.

How much torque and do I need a torque wrench? Should I use locktite?

I like the gun for less than $400 all in. Great knock around rifle with the synthetic stock. Im looking to push it to some distance with the flat round.

Any advice? Thanks.

Youtube is a wonderful thing. I use a torque screw driver and I do use loctite

 

[nmurph]

I’ve got a stupid question. Is the scope a 1” tube and the mounts for a 1” tube? Or 30 mm each? Just want to make sure that the mounts are correct for the scope is all

Mount and tube diameter must match-

 

[Elkbane]

I use 20 in/lb on rings with no loctite and 25 in/lb on bases with loctite. If your scope is moving in the rings with proper touque on the ring screws, you only have three options.

1. bed the rings - this can get kind of messy, but it's cheap. Beware that it does align that ring set, in it's current location on the base to that action (it permanently corrects for the misalignment)
2. Lap the rings.
3. Buy some Burris signature Zee rings with synthetic inserts, which correct for minor misalignment.

Personally, I lap rings. It's pretty common to have <25% contact before lapping. I lap until I get >50% contact, and that seems to do the trick.

Elkbane

 

[RedClayRoots79]

And why dead on at 100 with a 270 if you are looking for distance? Id do atleast a 200yard zero with a 270

Because the range was only 100 yds is why. Thanks for your help.

 

[RedClayRoots79]

I’ve got a stupid question. Is the scope a 1” tube and the mounts for a 1” tube? Or 30 mm each? Just want to make sure that the mounts are correct for the scope is all

1 inch

 

[Buckstop]

I degrease with alcohol first. Use either blue or purple loctite and torque with a wheeler fat wrench to 17 lbs. I have never had one move in the rings.

 

[Jester896]

Because the range was only 100 yds is why. Thanks for your help.

Doesn't this scope an exposed elevation turret? I think the BDC is calibrated for .308 rather than .270. I might zero it at 100 and just dial up if I have good DOPE on the rifle.

 

[Stroker]

I use 20 in/lb on rings with no loctite and 25 in/lb on bases with loctite. If your scope is moving in the rings with proper touque on the ring screws, you only have three options.

1. bed the rings - this can get kind of messy, but it's cheap. Beware that it does align that ring set, in it's current location on the base to that action (it permanently corrects for the misalignment)
2. Lap the rings.
3. Buy some Burris signature Zee rings with synthetic inserts, which correct for minor misalignment.

Personally, I lap rings. It's pretty common to have <25% contact before lapping. I lap until I get >50% contact, and that seems to do the trick.

Elkbane

I am slowly replacing all my Weaver and non Ruger and Leupold rings with the Burris signature Zee rings with the inserts. AR's get the XTR signature rings with inserts. I really like the option of different offsets inserts if needed, plus they have nice smooth rounded corners and the price is right. Any new scoped firearm will get these rings.

 

[Horns]

Mount and tube diameter must match-

Yep

 

[WishboneW]

Be sure to use a bubble level on the gun and scope to ensure the reticle is aligned with the center of the bore

 

[nmurph]

Bedding is better IMO bc-

a lapped ring is pretty much customized to the action it's on when it's lapped.
it can take a significant amount of lapping to get 100% contact.
lapping permanently changes the diameter of the ring.

Bedding is really pretty simple. It doesn't take but a very small amount of compound to bed and using a release agent makes cleanup a breeze.