NOYDB
BANNED
Just thought I'd write this up. For the Record, The Redhead, my beautiful Wife says I'm not really Anal Retentive, I just act that way.
A couple of things to keep in mind.
Which ever you settle on, make sure it's adjustable. The Bushnell ones are not. Laserlyte, SSI and others are.
You have to verify/calibrate the laser is on center before you can use it. Point it across the biggest room you can or down a hall and roll it on a flat surface. The dot should track a flat line. If it jumps up and down as you roll, it needs to be centered.
Once you've done that, then you can rely on them to give you an accurate centerline of bore.
I first center the cross hairs using machinist V-blocks that I have lined with teflon tape.
After I degrease the receiver and loose mount the bases, I put a metal straight edge across them to check for any obvious problems. Then I use a long barrel laser pointer laid across both bases and compare to the bore laser to see how the bases line up with the bore.
Hold a index card 1" in front of the bore laser and mark the two dots. Take it across the room and see if the dots have diverged any. Gives you an idea if there is, and the nature of, any problems with the bases. If there are no problems evident or I've fixed any I think are significant I then torque down the bases with purple locktite (From Midway, supposed to be a "just right" formula for scope mounting (seems to work)).
I then use this tool:
http://www.advancedoutdoors.net/SAT.htm
(the one with the included laser) to install the rings.
For Standard ring/bases I use the front half of the tool with the laser to turn in the dovetail so that I have two dots lined up vertically. I always use windage adjustable bases so I then use the rear half of the tool to position the rear ring and lock it down. For Weaver style I put the ring bottoms in the slots I need to use. Using the tool I determine if there is a major problem that lapping won't cure. That's has happened. But most times a little lapping and it's ready to install the scope.
*while you have the tool in the rings hold your card in front of the bore laser again and mark the two laser dots. Measure the distance between them and you have the EXACT height of your scope centerline over your bore centerline.
I loose mount the ring tops, adjust the eye relief and level the cross hairs. Then torque down the tops with the same locktite.
I use the Remington Shoots Software from their website (free) to determine where I want to set the cross hairs before going to the range. From my Kitchen down the Hall it's exactly 10 yards. Part of it's input is the height of your scope centerline (off the index card). At ten yards the bore centerline will need to be below the scope centerline. Also any small windage adjustments can be made.
I usually determine the zero distance I want for that caliber and the intended use of that rifle.
When I'm done I know that each possible area of potential problems has been tested and any problems have been corrected. That my scope is in physical alignment with the bore.
At the range. I'm already on paper close to where I want to be. I make adjustments then based on the characteristics of the barrel and load. For most it's not a big adjustment.
A couple of things to keep in mind.
Which ever you settle on, make sure it's adjustable. The Bushnell ones are not. Laserlyte, SSI and others are.
You have to verify/calibrate the laser is on center before you can use it. Point it across the biggest room you can or down a hall and roll it on a flat surface. The dot should track a flat line. If it jumps up and down as you roll, it needs to be centered.
Once you've done that, then you can rely on them to give you an accurate centerline of bore.
I first center the cross hairs using machinist V-blocks that I have lined with teflon tape.
After I degrease the receiver and loose mount the bases, I put a metal straight edge across them to check for any obvious problems. Then I use a long barrel laser pointer laid across both bases and compare to the bore laser to see how the bases line up with the bore.
Hold a index card 1" in front of the bore laser and mark the two dots. Take it across the room and see if the dots have diverged any. Gives you an idea if there is, and the nature of, any problems with the bases. If there are no problems evident or I've fixed any I think are significant I then torque down the bases with purple locktite (From Midway, supposed to be a "just right" formula for scope mounting (seems to work)).
I then use this tool:
http://www.advancedoutdoors.net/SAT.htm
(the one with the included laser) to install the rings.
For Standard ring/bases I use the front half of the tool with the laser to turn in the dovetail so that I have two dots lined up vertically. I always use windage adjustable bases so I then use the rear half of the tool to position the rear ring and lock it down. For Weaver style I put the ring bottoms in the slots I need to use. Using the tool I determine if there is a major problem that lapping won't cure. That's has happened. But most times a little lapping and it's ready to install the scope.
*while you have the tool in the rings hold your card in front of the bore laser again and mark the two laser dots. Measure the distance between them and you have the EXACT height of your scope centerline over your bore centerline.
I loose mount the ring tops, adjust the eye relief and level the cross hairs. Then torque down the tops with the same locktite.
I use the Remington Shoots Software from their website (free) to determine where I want to set the cross hairs before going to the range. From my Kitchen down the Hall it's exactly 10 yards. Part of it's input is the height of your scope centerline (off the index card). At ten yards the bore centerline will need to be below the scope centerline. Also any small windage adjustments can be made.
I usually determine the zero distance I want for that caliber and the intended use of that rifle.
When I'm done I know that each possible area of potential problems has been tested and any problems have been corrected. That my scope is in physical alignment with the bore.
At the range. I'm already on paper close to where I want to be. I make adjustments then based on the characteristics of the barrel and load. For most it's not a big adjustment.
