glue, locktite and friction tape for scope mounts and rings.

JR924

Senior Member
Mounting a burris signature scope on talley rings and talley one piece picatinny base.

1. Read a post (cannot find anymore) about adding "glue???" on the scope mount before screwing it to the rifles receiver. Thinking they may have meant loctite. What do you guys do?

2. Read discussion of not adding loctite to base and rings screws before screwing them in as it lubricates them and you could exceed the manf. torque rating. Others did not report any problem. Read that adding loctite after the screw is set does very little in holding the screw tight. What do you guys do?

3. Read with high quality rings (like a Talley or Leupold), friction tape inside the rings is not needed and may even be harmful. I have used friction tape with my springer air rifles as they have cheap rings. I read for cheap rings and springers, friction tape can be used. What do you guys do for firearms?

Thank you in advance for any replies.
 

Elkbane

Senior Member
It is the BLUE Loctite, not the RED Loctite, which is designed to be a permanent thread locker and will require heat to remove.....

Elkbane
 

1eyefishing

...just joking, seriously.
I don't use any of that and have never had an issue.
 
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lonewolf247

Senior Member
I have tried several approaches to this over the years. In my experience, if you use nothing on the threads, your likely to get loose base mounts, at some point in time. As far as the rings, I have done them both ways, using nothing, or using loctite. Seems, most of the time, you'd be ok with this approach. However, I have had the rings work loose over several years too, on a couple of rifles.

That said, my current approach is blue loctite, on the rings and bases.
 

treemanjohn

Banned
Blue loktite on the base screws as above and I put liquid electrical tape between the scope and rings. It holds the scope perfectly without the concern of over tightening
 

killerv

Senior Member
Blue lokitite or "guntite" from Unkle Mikes, bases, and windage screws if you have them. I never do ring screws. I bought a used 10/22 once and previous owner red locktited the base, screws, base and all..lets just say its still on the rifle. I know folks that like to put fingernail polish on their ring screw heads after install, if the seal breaks and they loosin up, its easy to see.

The important thing is to degrease all holes well before installing, and especially be careful when wiping down the gun after use around the screw heads on the rings, it will wick down and loosen things up if you arent careful.
 
Torque them to the proper inch pounds with blue loktite and call it a day.

I typically do 25 inch-lbs with blue loktite on aluminum rings and 30 on steel rings.

I torque to 20. Then I run it to 25. Then I full torque.

Always worked for me and I have never had an issue yet in life with any of my guns.
 

rosewood

Senior Member
I always use the blue locktite on the base if I install it and then torque to spec using my FAT wrench. Will usually double check the torque on bases that were installed when I got the gun. Never use any glue on the ring screws. Just torque them to spec. I can say, if you torque by feel, you most likely over torque them and this can especially be a problem on the rings to scope in that you can damage the scope.

I have never had a rings or bases came loose that I installed. Only loose ones I have ever found were ones that were installed when I bought the firearm and failed to double check.

Rosewood
 

killerv

Senior Member
As others have already said, blue loctite base, fat wrench torque, nothing on rings. Lets go shoot it.


I never had a issue with things loosing until I started using the Fat Torque wrench. I still use it but I finish up with the supplied wrench that comes with rings/base. They are designed that way for a reason to keep you from overtorquing.
 

Geezer Ray

Senior Member
I never had a issue with things loosing until I started using the Fat Torque wrench. I still use it but I finish up with the supplied wrench that comes with rings/base. They are designed that way for a reason to keep you from overtorquing.
Not familiar with supplied torque wrenches. Hows that work?
 

rosewood

Senior Member
Not familiar with supplied torque wrenches. Hows that work?
He means the little allen or torx wrench that comes with them. They do flex as you get tighter reducing your ability to overtighten. You can still overtighten with them though.

Rosewood
 

Dub

Senior Member
I tend to get heavy-handed with stuff and over-tighten things.

Learned the hard way to READ the manufacturers instructions and follow their torque specs carefully.

Use the highest quality base, mount, rings and glass that you can afford....and take your time and mount it carefully & correctly.

Shortcuts & rushing always led me to bad results and regrets later.



Now.....I'll wait and save up for as long as it takes to get the gear I need....or the tools I need.


Finally getting a day off to hunt.....and missing a shot or wounding vs killing will bring on the headaches and aggravation like nothing else.

The cost of good gear is actually the cheapest part of hunting....in many ways.


It's why I never understood people who have these "hunt of a lifetime planned in two years" who shortcut on their gear. They have the time to get it right.


Anyway....enough preaching....hope your scope goes on well and you get it sighted in and ready to rock.





As others have already said, blue loctite base, fat wrench torque, nothing on rings. Lets go shoot it.


Same practice here. Blue locktite on base-to-reciever. Nothing on scope ring screws.


My FAT wrench gave out on me and I recently replaced with with a torque wrench kit from Borka Tools.

Have some scopes to mount soon, too.



 
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Stevie Ray

Senior Member
Same practice here. Blue locktite on base-to-reciever. Nothing on scope ring screws.


My FAT wrench gave out on me and I recently replaced with with a torque wrench kit from Borka Tools.

Have some scopes to mount soon, too.





Maybe you can give us a rundown on the Borka torque wrench and how it works Dub? I use a FAT wrench but wouldn't mind taking a peek at the Borka and hearing your thoughts.
 

Jester896

Senior Clown
I have a Fat Wrench and a Weaver I think. I also have available Seekonx in 20 and 65.

One or 2 I know have Fix It Sticks and are happy
 
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