Help With Bases And Rings Please

bighonkinjeep

Senior Member
Nothing wrong with the standard Leupold setup. Have several that have been solid for the last 30 years. Been through heck and high water dropped thrown in the back of the truck, buggy slung through the thickets with a climber on my back etc. and never lost zero.

That said I prefer a 2 piece dual dovetail setup by Leupold or Burris on a hunting rifle. The turn in front and rear are relatively lightweight, provide plenty of clearance for the ejection port, and have zero wiggle ever. Rock solid is an understatement. I'd walk miles past a weaver/picatinny setup to get dual dovetails for a hunting rig.



PS if youre gonna use loctite get the right stuff. The purple is rated for machine screws ( read the instructions cause blue is rated for bigger screws) and purple will hold tight forever until you're. Ready to remove it. Blue will sometimes let go for removal and sometimes not, Especially if degreased with denatured alcohol first. Stripped screw heads and stuck shanks, propane torches etc. are a booger. Thats why loctite comes with instructions.
 
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Dub

Senior Member
Picking up the Leupold for the 300 today and trying to decide on some bases and rings.

I have a few sets of "regular" Leupold bases and rings but the "scope" guy at Franklin's recommended these.

They are by far not the most expensive they sell and they are always straight with me so I'm pretty sure if he was just trying to "sell" me something, he would have went a little deeper.

These are supposedly "removable", whatever that means but no matter how good a system is, I would never dismount and mount a scope and shoot it like in a James Bond movie.
(There is a company that makes EDM tool posts that repeat to microns, but they don't make scopes. They are called 3R Tooling Systems but that's another story :bounce: )

Anyhoooo... What do y'all think about these bases? They are less than $100.00, not that it's the deciding factor. This will be set up for long range in a hunting rifle and the scope has a MOA reticle. To me, MOA is easier to count in you head than MIL DOT but maybe that just me.

Thanks in advance.


Do you have the means to align them....how about lap them ?
 

Big7

The Oracle
Do you have the means to align them....how about lap them ?
Oh yeah.

Got several lengths of TGP lapping rod at .998, .999 and 1.000"..

Got some stuff from work over the years and during the first part of my career, I had to have all the precision measuring tools you can think of. Lost a few, loaned out a few that never made it back but still have 95% of my tools and stuff I made.
 
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Dub

Senior Member
Oh yeah.

Got several lengths of TGP lapping rod at .998, .999 and 1.000"..

Got some stuff from work over the years and during the first part of my career, I had to have all the precision measuring tools you can think of. Lost a few, loaned out a few that never made it back but still have 95% of my tools and stuff I made.

The other option is using rings that won't require lapping.
 

Big7

The Oracle
The other option is using rings that won't require lapping.
I'm not sure lapping does much good on quality rings anyway.

If you are not aligned, like in a machine, with the bore, what's to say you aren't lapping off to one side or up or down. What little material a lap removes don't change things much.
Some of the crappy brands might have some lumps and bumps but with modern manufacturing, lapping is probably an old- school throw back. Not sure because I have never built a 1500 yard rifle. Yet. :bounce:

I normally use a piece if 1.000 inch Turned, Ground and Polished Bar (TGP) put everything together finger tight and then walk everything around like head gasket bolts with a torque screwdriver.

That seems to work pretty good.20230912_204856.jpg
 
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killerv

Senior Member
Leupold rings barely need any lapping if any. Now the old redfield rings were bad, they definitely needed it.
 

FlipKing

Senior Member
Leupold back country sets. One piece. No rail. That's what I run on my Ridgeline and Waypoint.
 

HughW2

Senior Member
I'm not sure lapping does much good on quality rings anyway.

If you are not aligned, like in a machine, with the bore, what's to say you aren't lapping off to one side or up or down. What little material a lap removes don't change things much.
Some of the crappy brands might have some lumps and bumps but with modern manufacturing, lapping is probably an old- school throw back. Not sure because I have never built a 1500 yard rifle. Yet. :bounce:

I normally use a piece if 1.000 inch Turned, Ground and Polished Bar (TGP) put everything together finger tight and then walk everything around like head gasket bolts with a torque screwdriver.

That seems to work pretty good.View attachment 1253628
Neither Talley nor DNZ recommends lapping and I believe I saw on the DNZ site that lapping voids your warranty. Either of these two mounts and ring brands are very high quality and lapping would be a needless waste of time and or money.
 

Big7

The Oracle
Neither Talley nor DNZ recommends lapping and I believe I saw on the DNZ site that lapping voids your warranty. Either of these two mounts and ring brands are very high quality and lapping would be a needless waste of time and or money.
#metoo :bounce:
 

Dub

Senior Member
Neither Talley nor DNZ recommends lapping and I believe I saw on the DNZ site that lapping voids your warranty. Either of these two mounts and ring brands are very high quality and lapping would be a needless waste of time and or money.
(y)
The other option is using rings that won't require lapping.
 

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