10/22 Trigger Job Advice. Help. Please.

Big7

The Oracle
Ok it's long but please read.

I have in my possession 3- 10/22's.
One more if you count one my Nephew has that he done took up with.

So.. The two identical carbines are solid.
One has a 3X9X40 and the other a BSA Red Dot. They both function flawlessly and I can hit small game easily and groups are good on paper targets.

My dilemma at this point is the target build.
My Torque Screwdriver came in last week and after looking at other, way cheaper thread lockers, I decided this far in to go ahead and spring for the LOCTITE brand. That's just OCD kicking in. I've used the others in industrial applications for years with no problem but this is a rifle build. Right?
?

So, with all that said, I'm thinking about either:

1) Doing a trigger job to the factory group.
I have access to a nice machine and tool shop so it would be easy to machine the sear and hammer identical on all 3. Easy.. But.. A buddy of mine that tinkers a good bit said that's not the best idea because if it ever went "full auto" #1 it's dangerous. #2 it's a felony. I agree.

2) He likes the Ruger BX trigger but he only has it on one rifle. He loves it. They are almost 100$ from Ruger. He's checking the online stores,
E-'bay, Amazon, etc to see if there are any volume discounts available. That's fine but how do you know they haven't been dropped or opened unless you get it straight from Ruger? And, are 3 BX triggers going to have identical take up, creep and break?

3) Timney Triggers. $229.95. :hair:
That's almost as much as I paid for the target rifle a few years ago. The carbines are more than that now too.. + I'm $50.00 in on a DNZ 1 piece bottom mount specifically machined to match the contour of the 10/22 reciever.
And the 6X18X44 Vortex was about what I gave for the target rifle.

So. I got money in these rifles and optics. Lot's of it.

If I do the target rifle, whichever way I go is going to get expensive. Quick

What I DON'T WANT is 3 different 10/22's with 3 different trigger pull weights.
Whatever I do to the target build, trigger wise at least, I will have to do to all 3 and possibly 4- if I ever get the one back from my Nephew.
He's a good kid and I'm not sweating that. ?

Advice? Thoughts?
Much Appreciated.

BTW.. I'm going to buy a trigger pull scale this week prolly, as I have 4 or 5 builds going and when those are done, I'm going to check every firearm I own and see if they need trigger work.
 
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Big7

The Oracle
And.. The Volquartsen TG200 is ridiculous for a 10/22. Might spring for one on a serious centerfire build but not ANY .22lr.
 

bullgator

Senior Member
The BX triggers may not be identical to each other but that’s the way I’d go in your case. You’re not setting them up for serious competition so the Volquartsen, Kidd, and other match grade options are overkill. That money could be used elsewhere like ammo or optics. The BX are nice and a noticeable improvement, AND they won’t hinder your warranty service with Ruger if you should need it.
 

Railroader

Billy’s Security Guard.
BX Triggers are the best bang for the buck. Almost as good as one I have with Volquartzen Parts in it.

Unless you are 100% CERTAIN what you are doing don't try to "improve" a 10-22 trigger yourself.

Only takes a file stroke too much to create a mag dumping full auto that you can't control, and you'll be buying a new trigger anyway.
 

Railroader

Billy’s Security Guard.
Also, if you want a REALLY nice trigger for a 10-22 these days, you have to go complete Timney or Volquartzen group, because Ruger now uses more plastic in the assembly of their trigger groups.

I'm pretty sure I read that Volquartzen (or someone that used to) will no longer do trigger work on your Ruger Trigger Group for that reason.

Unless you are a serious competitor, the BX's will probably make you happy.

I snuck a BX into The Kid's youth model, and he commented that the trigger seemed better, next time he fired it...
 

NE GA Pappy

Mr. Pappy
Go to rimfirecentral and search for 10/22 triggers. There are people there that redo the factory triggers and do a great job
 

Jeetdawg

Senior Member
For my one of my son’s competition 10-22’s, we bought a Kidd trigger. They are pricey but it was drop in and go. Has worked flawlessly to this point. My other son has a trigger that was “tricked out” and it works well. Not sure what was done as his coach put it in his gun we had bought. If you aren’t shooting competition, sounds like the BX trigger may be a better value. Do buy a Valquartsen extractor upgrade kit as it helps minimize stove pipes/jams.
 

GunnSmokeer

Senior Member
Go to rimfirecentral and search for 10/22 triggers. There are people there that redo the factory triggers and do a great job

Yes, a fellow named NemoHunter from RIMFIRECENTRAL .com did mine back around 2008 or 2009. It only cost about 100 bucks and it is amazing. Starting with my old aluminum bodied trigger assembly which was all original from the early 1980s and well used, he put in extra pins to stop wiggle. take out creep and overtravel. Cut the trigger pull weight by more than half.

He could've set it much lower, but I told him I wanted it for legal for certain competitions so he gave me a trigger pull of about 2 1/4 pounds.

Color me happy.

86B59666-CB66-4713-A717-B69023586210.jpegA15EA397-AF1F-4453-82A5-4A61C864D5B9.jpeg
 

NE GA Pappy

Mr. Pappy
if the trigger groups are the older metal housing groups, they are highly desired by people to tune. You can send it off and have it honed and adjusted, add over travel stop screws, sear depth engagement screws and pin the cross pins as shown above. This is the direction a lot of people who own the metal groups go.

If you own the metal groups, but want to go with the BX from Ruger, you could recoup a good bit of your outlay by selling the old groups on a site like the ones mentioned above.
 

trad bow

wooden stick slinging driveler
I went with the BX upgrade but still wish Ruger would just fix the trigger assembly at the factory during production.
 

rosewood

Senior Member

Big7

The Oracle
I went with the BX upgrade but still wish Ruger would just fix the trigger assembly at the factory during production.
Yeah..
I have a BUNCH of money tied up in Rugers.

I done called them and raised cain about the fact they could just put the better trigger in from jump.
I even fussed at upper management.

They won't budge on a volume discount.

My buddy found a group of 3 as a package deal.
It was like $200+ 3 or 4 dollars and free shipping.

That knocked off $100.00 if I had got 3 from Ruger.

Thank All Y'all for the input and replies.
We will know here directly.
?
 
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Big7

The Oracle
That's the stuff I have in my "good" 10-22....

The BX is almost that good. It's as light, but just a smidge less "crisp".
Out of stock.

If I had a set to copy, I could make a blue million of them.

We split the overhead.
I'll make the parts. (buy the spring)

You sell.

We split net. :biggrin2:
 

lonewolf247

Senior Member
I went with the BX trigger on mine, and I am satisfied. The only thing, mine is a stainless rifle, the factory trigger was a better match.
 

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Darkhorse

Senior Member
The trigger group on the Ruger .44 carbine is close to the 10-22's. I bought my wife a .44 carbine and the trigger pull was so rough and hard she literally couldn't hit a cardboard box with it. I took it to a gunsmith who refused to work on it. Said it was like a swiss watch.
This wasn't the first trigger I had worked on so I took the exploded parts drawing and somehow managed to really smooth it out. At least good enough she would hit with it.
I won't do another one. Or one in a 10-22 either. There are better options out there now than back then.
 

rosewood

Senior Member
I went with the BX trigger on mine, and I am satisfied. The only thing, mine is a stainless rifle, the factory trigger was a better match.
The Volquartsen hammer kit lets you keep the factory trigger group, just cuts the pull in half.

Rosewood
 
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