Gaining Elevation, Losing Millennia

NCHillbilly

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I had a rare weekday off today, and had a few hours to do whatever I wished. I wished to go catch some native specks. It was forecast to be in the low 90s in the valleys today, which is not ideal trout fishing conditions. But luckily, living here among the Smokies and Great Balsams, I can be in the Canadian Zone in less than an hour, just by going up. I was headed to the Northwoods, without leaving my county.

Fishing for native mountain specks is always an exercise in time travel to me. It's a throwback to days long gone. Specks are Deep Time fish. There is something comforting and stabilizing to me about fishing a creek that is still functioning just the way it was designed, after tens of thousands of years. There aren't many of them left, unaffected by modern times and our excesses and meddling. It always strikes me at some point during one of these trips, that if I could somehow go back in time and climb my way into this creek 13,000 years ago, there might be dire wolves howling and sabertooth cats snarling in the woods at streamside, but these same little chars would still be right there, doing the same things in the same way and same places that they are today. That doesn't happen too often these days.

Even my trip there is a journey through time. As I top out in a mountain gap on a two-lane road, I reflect that if I had been passing through this same spot in September, 1776, I would have met the expedition of General Griffith Rutherford marching through the gap to wage war on the Cherokee who lived here in order to prevent them from forming a deadly alliance with the British. I follow the old trace down the other side of the mountain, and turn onto another road that traces an ancient Cherokee path between the Middle and Lower towns of their nation. I climb for a long time, then pull over on the side of the road at a trailhead. I am at about 5,000' elevation, among the spruces, firs, mountain ashes, and northern hardwoods. The same vegetation I would see if I traveled a thousand miles north to Canada or Maine. I was in no hurry this morning, but even at 10 AM, the temperature is still in the lower 50s here, and the last wisps of morning fog are just burning off. It's a different world up here.

I rig up my rod, and pull my wading boots on. I slip and slide down the steep trail into the gorge that has been carved by the creek over thousands of years, hanging onto mountain ash and yellow birch saplings to steady my balance. The first step into the ice-cold water almost takes my breath. This water, even in mid-August, still holds memories of the Pleistoscene glaciers. I look up the creek, my gaze falling on smooth boulders, flood-washed gravel bars, and the towering silhouettes of spruce and fir trees springing up at streamside. The air is cool, and smells of spruce, moss, and dampness, with a tang of chlorophyll. It is a fine thing to be here this morning.

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To be continued...
 
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NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
Even as I survey the beauty around me, my satisfaction is tinged with uneasiness and dread. On August 17, 2021, Tropical Storm Fred ripped through my county. It dropped over 14" of rain in twelve hours, mostly on the headwaters of this watershed that I am standing in the headwaters of right now. Walls of water roared downstream, destroying everything in their path. Countless houses, whole communities, and parts of towns were utterly destroyed and leveled by the floodwater. Some people died, drowning trying to reach safety as the torrents swept down on them. Some survived by climbing trees and clinging there for hours. This whole watershed was scoured to the bed.

This particular stream holds a special place in my heart. Through most of my life, it has held the thickest and biggest sized on average population of natives of any stream I know locally. I have caught more "big" specks out of this stream over the years than anywhere else I have fished, including several in the 10"-11" range. It has always been a personal, private heaven of native mountain chars to me. I've only brought one other person to this stream in all the decades I've fished it, @northgeorgiasportsman , if that tells you anything.

I haven't had the heart to fish it since the flood, afraid of what I'd find. Or, more specifically, what I wouldn't find. I guess today is the day. I am cautiously optimistic, but realistic. I also know that this same bloodline of fish has been weathering floods and droughts since mastodons walked the banks of their creek instead of rock-stacking hippies, so a flood that seemed so monumental to me is just a blip on their genetic radar. The water is low and gin-clear, tough conditions. But, I've fished it with success in these tough conditions many times. The creek is a mixture of shallow trickles interspersed with wide, deep pools, some way over my head in depth, even in this low water. The lower ends of the pools today are still, listless and languid as swimming pools. When I cast my dry fly into the center or tail of a pool, it just sits there, unmoving.

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I work my way upstream, and for awhile, my casts bring no results. But, this is normal, this close to the trail that crosses the creek below where I parked. It is fished hard in that stretch, but few venture upstream into the rough, trailless gorge, where you are climbing boulders and cliffs, with the creek as your only trail.
After fishing several lifeless runs, I drift my fly beside a deep undercut run that goes under a boulder, and a fish strikes. I pull it airborn from the water with my hookset. A prime feeding lie like this being held by a 4" fish isn't a good sign.

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To be continued...
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
I work my way upstream, and things start falling into place. My casting rhythm adapts, and I slow down and sneak up on each likely spot, casting from behind a boulder or limb, or from my knees on the gravel bar. As I work further upstream, every likely spot that I get a decent cast and drift into yields a fish, or an optimistic multiple attack from a 3" wannabe piranha. They are still there. In plenty. But, all small. I catch fish after fish, all in the 4" -6" range-beautiful little jewels made of spruce duff, frost, rocks, and Pleistocene glacier water. I am glad to see that my special creek is still very much alive, even if the fishing is not what it once was, much like the person fishing it. It will be as it was again, though, long after I am gone. It just takes time. I may not have a lot of that commodity at this point, but the creek does. It is the one thing it has in plenty. It will keep doing what it always has, and will pay no attention to us.

speck2.jpg

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To be continued...
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
I work my way upstream, lost for the moment in the rhythm of casting, sunlight and dappled shadows on the water, the sound and feel of the running, living water, and the strikes and flashes of the little fish that live here. I wet my hands and release them, wishing them well, almost sorry for momentarily disturbing their lives that have enough problems without me complicating them. But, I know that they will take it in stride, as they have been taking everything both good and bad for the last several thousand years.

It still amazes me that an hour's drive up a steep, twisting mountain road can transport me to a magical world where everything look, feels, smells, tastes, and lives differently from the day-to day world that I am used to. I find myself accepting it, stopping fishing for unknown amounts of time just to look at and admire small things, getting lost in the patterns surrounding me.

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But after awhile, my nagging human consciousness reminds me that I am short on the thing that this place has an endless supply of-

Time.

And my aching 55-year old muscles remind me that I still have a long hike back out the only trail that will take me out of this gorge-reversing my course back down the stream that I have laboriously worked my way up, climbing boulders and clambering over deadfall spruces piled up by receding flood waters, wading swift currents while walking on slick rocks. I reluctantly hook my fly to the keeper, and turn my gaze back downstream, an unnatural condition in one who is geared to perpetually look upstream and around the next bend.

Later, as I climb the steep trail back to my truck, I pull myself up the steep mountainside by grabbing onto the same mountain ash and yellow birch saplings that I used to slow my descent on the way down this morning. I stow my gear, start the truck, and head back down the mountain. As the miles and elevation contour lines pass, the temperature rises steadily, and I once again start seeing people and their annoying, buzzing machines, their numbers growing thicker and thicker until I am back into the heart of our supposedly normal world.

But, by resetting my internal clock to deep time, mountain time, for a few hours and taking a trip back to the Pleistocene, I have effectively washed away the stress of weeks of demands from job and family. At least for the time being. And I have once again seen, felt, and experienced things that no one can ever take away from me until I someday end my time in this cycle of life.


FIN.
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
And yes, I talk too much, and don't take enough fish pictures. :)
 

Big7

The Oracle
Another good story about a good mountain trip!

Me not knowing any more than I do about small stream Trout fishing, which is practically nothing, I can still relate on some levels.

That kind of decompression is about how I feel hunting at the end of a long hike several miles after the logging roads have grown impassable by truck and where even the most seasoned 4 wheeler drivers cannot venture- where walking in is the ONLY way and stay at least overnight and sometimes 2 or 3 days, often by myself.

Or... Going 40 to 110 miles offshore chasing Dolphin, Wahoo, Tuna, Marlin, Sailfish and whatever else will chase the trolling lines.
My record for not seeing land is 3 days during a trip to out from Key West to Dry Tortugas about 20 years ago.

It's fun just getting out and matching your skills to the skills of the beasts and not seeing people in the process.
:cheers:

PS... If you run up on an old wood fired liquor still sight, please snap a few pics. I have never seen one. :bounce:
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
Enjoyed that. Now I have my own memories to compare to your words. It makes them resonate even more so.
That was all your fault. :bounce:
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
I think your narrative is great storytelling. The less pictures, the more my mind can picture where you are taking us and back.
I could have posted thirty more fish pics, but they would have looked just about like the few I did post. Sometimes, the fish are the least important part of my fishing, if that doesn't sound strange.
 
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