Pot Holes

SWAMPFOX

Senior Member
The roads on my club are like most hunt camp roads, littered with pot holes, etc. One particular spot is deep mud hole and is a real pain. I get stuck there even in 4 wheel drive. I'm thinking to try to fill them in by just dumping a few bags of cement or concrete, bag and all, into the holes. Any one ever done this? Which you think would work better, cement or concrete?

Or any other suggestions.

Thanks.
 

basshappy

BANNED
The roads on my club are like most hunt camp roads, littered with pot holes, etc. One particular spot is deep mud hole and is a real pain. I get stuck there even in 4 wheel drive. I'm thinking to try to fill them in by just dumping a few bags of cement or concrete, bag and all, into the holes. Any one ever done this? Which you think would work better, cement or concrete?

Or any other suggestions.

Thanks.

Presuming you have permission to pour mud, I would;
- Dig a trench to have the water run off so you can work on the pit
- Level the muck / mud and if you can dredge some of it out of the pit even better
- If you can drain the water via the trench and level and excavate some mud / muck let it be for a few weeks. Keep the trench clear of debris so water continues to drain away. Give time to allow the ground to dry out as much as it can
-.Pour some Quikrete for longer term stability. We actually took concrete blocks, laid them on their side, and then poured the mud (Quikrete) into the block holes, gave time to cure, then poured more mud over top of that base layer. Problem solved.

You could also just drop a mess of Quikrete bags in and they will absorb the water, harden and displace some of the water. I would lay the bags though in an orderly fashion so you can drive across them.
 

dwhee87

GON Political Forum Scientific Studies Poster
Of your two choices listed, don't use 'cement', use quikcrete or redi-mix...something that's already got gravel in the mix. Pure portland cement will give you no structural integrity. Concrete needs the gravel to do that.

Better option, IMO, is to find someone with a tractor and box blade to blade the road for you every year or so. Roads on an incline should have swales built across them at an angle to divert water off every couple hundred feet. A tractor man will know how to do this.

We used to have problems where I hunted with this, and once we had swales put it, our maintenance went way down.

Water is the enemy. Give it somewhere to go away from the road.
 

fishfryer

frying fish driveler
Of your two choices listed, don't use 'cement', use quikcrete or redi-mix...something that's already got gravel in the mix. Pure portland cement will give you no structural integrity. Concrete needs the gravel to do that.

Better option, IMO, is to find someone with a tractor and box blade to blade the road for you every year or so. Roads on an incline should have swales built across them at an angle to divert water off every couple hundred feet. A tractor man will know how to do this.

We used to have problems where I hunted with this, and once we had swales put it, our maintenance went way down.

Water is the enemy. Give it somewhere to go away from the road.
Good recommendation, morning Nostep
 

Crakajak

Daily Driveler News Team
In addition to what Dwheel87 stated, you can also get a truckload of gravel #57 or larger and have it spread over the drained spots.
The water collects because it has nowhere to go.
 

notnksnemor

The Great and Powerful Oz
If it is in a low spot would laying a culvert pipe across the road help the water drain past?
 

dwhee87

GON Political Forum Scientific Studies Poster
Here's what I'm talking about, except without all the riprap... Angle the berm so that it channels the water off the low side of the road. Space the berms so that water doesn't have enough distance to pick up a lot of speed.

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