Accuracy issues

[Back_40]

I have a CVA Optima V2 with the a Leupold Freedom 3x9x40 scoped mounted with the DuraSight® DEAD-ON™ one-piece scope mount. I used loctite 222 on the base and ring threads. I am shooting 100 grns Triple 7 pellets and Hornady SST 250 grn bullets. I clean in between each shot. Shooting off sand bags, the bullets are hitting all over the target at 100 yds. High, Low, left, right. I have tried 3 different brands of primers with no change. I am looking for suggestions on next steps to figuring out the accuracy problems. Thanks in advance!

 

[Railroader]

The first thing I would do is go to loose powder, and Hornady Great Plains 385s.

If you get loose T7, start at about 70 grains and I bet money that the groups shrink dramatically for a couple reasons.

Loose powder will burn more consistently and completely, and that GP385 will shoot good in ANY .50, because it will engage the rifling front and back.

Also, you won't be beating yourself up as bad as with the 100 gr pellet charge. 100 grains of T7 is STOUT, by any estimation, and I bet you ain't looking forward to touching it off...

If you are burning up your sabot, or plastic belt on the way out by jumping the rifling, there is no way to make it shoot good. A smaller charge of loose MIGHT make the plastic bullets shoot better, but I KNOW a big chunk of lead will shoot good.

In the case of a muzzle loader, basic is batter, I don't care what the ads say.

Good luck, man.

 

[Deerhead]

Another option is BH209 loose powder. I know a lot of people are not fans but Powerbelt bullets work well in my Optima ML. Search the forum for BH209. Lots of good information on this site.

Good luck!

 

[Back_40]

Thanks guys! I'll give the great plans and loose T7 a try. If that doesn't help I'll order a breach plug for BH209 and give that a try.

 

[35 Whelen]

The first thing I would do is go to loose powder, and Hornady Great Plains 385s.

If you get loose T7, start at about 70 grains and I bet money that the groups shrink dramatically for a couple reasons.

Loose powder will burn more consistently and completely, and that GP385 will shoot good in ANY .50, because it will engage the rifling front and back.

Also, you won't be beating yourself up as bad as with the 100 gr pellet charge. 100 grains of T7 is STOUT, by any estimation, and I bet you ain't looking forward to touching it off...

If you are burning up your sabot, or plastic belt on the way out by jumping the rifling, there is no way to make it shoot good. A smaller charge of loose MIGHT make the plastic bullets shoot better, but I KNOW a big chunk of lead will shoot good.

In the case of a muzzle loader, basic is batter, I don't care what the ads say.

Good luck, man.

This. Loose triple seven (less is more, complete burn in barrel,) and get rid of the plastic junk on muzzleloader bullets, solid chunk of lead is what you want.

 

[Back_40]

Well I can find no loose T7 locally (SC midlands). Looks like I'll have to order.

 

[Railroader]

Well I can find no loose T7 locally (SC midlands). Looks like I'll have to order.

You ain't gotta have T7...Pyrodex or that BH stuff would be fine.

I know nothing about BH, but an 80gr charge of Pyrodex would be a good start as well... ?

 

[Flintrock]

You have to synchronize the bullet with the twist of the barrel. That can be done changing the power and/ or bullet size . Rule out the easiest thing first and that is changing the powder charge up and down and note the changes . Once done change the bullet either smaller or larger . You may have to change to various size and brands of bullets to get the result you want . Since you are shooting 100 grains I think it’s probably more of a bullet issue than a powder issue.

 

[trial&error]

pyrodex should be hitting the shelves soon. 60-80 gr is about as high as i go

 

[kmckinnie]

I think it’s more of the bullet.
I would go with a buffalo ? bullet!
At least try different bullets.

 

[coolbreezeroho]

How many different weights and styles of bullets have you tried ?

 

[menhadenman]

I’d swap out another scope. Guys won’t say it but Leupolds do go belly up. I had a VariX 3 they just replaced - from a 7 mag. Erector tube was shot. Wasted plenty of shots figuring that out.

 

[earlthegoat2]

My advice is more of the same.

In this order:

- Use loose powder. It doesn’t matter much which powder IME. I personally like 777 FFFg equivalent in modern MLs. BH 209 is nearly unobtanium and costs double what 777 does. There are benefits, sure, but it is costly and hard to find. Even super old school Pyrodex can produce good groups. Experimenting with different charges from 70-100 should net you a good group from any bullet. There is always the option of trying Pyrodex pellets as well.

- Switch bullets. I have found many CVA rifles like Powerbelts. I don’t exactly like Powerbelts but they are a good choice if they are accurate from your rifle. I have never had bad luck with sabots either. I never use pre-packaged sabot bullets though. I always buy my sabots and bullets separate. I used to shoot Nosler partition .451 250gr back when they were still made. MMP sells bare sabots right on their website for decent price including shipping. Or just experiment with some more prepackaged ones.

 

[Hillbilly stalker]

One of my Muzzle loaders, an Optima, does not like Hornady bullets at all. But all of mine seem to like the Barnes sabots . There are a lot of different recipes for peak performance.

 

[hunterofopportunity]

Everything already mentioned plus, I had a powder gun that wouldn't shoot clean I needed a fouling charge, since you mentioned cleaning between shots.

 

[kingfish]

Didn't see where anyone mentioned this but how far are you starting out at when you site in ? I've always started out at 25 yds dead on the X then moved out. Then I will move out to 50, but honestly have never shot at 100 yds. Unless you are hunting easements, roads or giant food plots, your average shot will be less than 100 yds. Lighter loads make for tighter groups, I learned this with an open site Hawken years ago.

 

[Stingray23]

I think it’s more of the bullet.
I would go with a buffalo ? bullet!
At least try different bullets.

This ! my experience with CVA's is they tend to be bullet specific, I shoot TC Shockwaves 300grain out of my Accura and TC SW 250grain out of my Wolf, both are pretty accurate. Also, loose powder will group better and yes, less is more. When i shoot BH209 it's usually around 80grams of powder. Powerbelts shoot fairly accurate too I just don't care for em

 

[Darkhorse]

I see that all the blame has been put on the rifle, powder and ball or bullet. And all the corrections have been applied to those same items. Now it's time to put the blame somewhere else, on the shooter.
Sounds to me like you might be flinching. Yeah I know. You don't flinch. Nobody ever does.
I've heard that from so many good shooters. But after learning to control that flinch they became good shots.
So my suggestion is to learn to control that flinch and see if the rifle improves itself.

 

[Qazaq15]

I see that all the blame has been put on the rifle, powder and ball or bullet. And all the corrections have been applied to those same items. Now it's time to put the blame somewhere else, on the shooter.
Sounds to me like you might be flinching. Yeah I know. You don't flinch. Nobody ever does.
I've heard that from so many good shooters. But after learning to control that flinch they became good shots.
So my suggestion is to learn to control that flinch and see if the rifle improves itself.

^^This^^
Work on your dry fire training. Get a pencil eraser and cut it in half and stick in your primer hole on your breech plug. You may have to trim it a little so it fits snugly against your breech face. That way your firing pin has something to hit that wont deform. Its a cheap easy way to commit a smooth trigger pull to muscle memory.

 

[Hillbilly stalker]

Mite not want to clean between each shot. Most ML’s like a partially fouled barrel. I run a spit patch about every 3-4 shots. Could be a lot of things going on….but I bet this helps and it’s free.