Arrow choice

bfriendly

Bigfoot friendly
Also, highly recommend trying a bunch of different shafts. You used to be able to buy one shaft at a time at Lancaster archery.
Might look into that if you’re on the fence
If I’m able to hold my new bow in my right hand properly, I don’t see why I couldn’t pull the entire 60#(max) weight. The max DL on the new Blackout Epic X2, is 30”. Max speed is indicated at 342. If I back off 3” of the max DL, is there an educated guess on speed? I’d love to actually go to a shop and get setup proper like…….and plan on it!
 

ddd-shooter

Senior Member
If I’m able to hold my new bow in my right hand properly, I don’t see why I couldn’t pull the entire 60#(max) weight. The max DL on the new Blackout Epic X2, is 30”. Max speed is indicated at 342. If I back off 3” of the max DL, is there an educated guess on speed? I’d love to actually go to a shop and get setup proper like…….and plan on it!
IBO is based off of thirty inch draw, 70 pound draw weight and empty string with a 350 grain arrow.
10 fps for every inch of draw length.
A few fps for every pound of draw weight under 70.
A few fps for stuff on string (peep, loop, etc)
For every three grains of arrow weight, lose 1 fps
So 484-350= 134
134/3= 45fps
30 fps for draw
So figure 80fps less than advertised. You’ll be about 260 fps @484 grains and maxed out at 60.

With your shoulder problems, I’d recommend pulling less weight, shooting a somewhat lighter arrow, and shooting those Magnus heads you bought.
Definitely wouldn’t go heavier arrow. If you add more, you’ll lose another 10fps and if you end up at 50#, you’ll lose another 10 fps. 240fps isn’t impossible, but you’re not shooting a recurve, lol
Get the most bang for your Buck with a 400 grain and you’ll pick up 25 or 30 fps on your current arrow.

If you need a super heavy insert to make your arrows fly, you have a tuning issue or a form issue.
 

bfriendly

Bigfoot friendly
IBO is based off of thirty inch draw, 70 pound draw weight and empty string with a 350 grain arrow.
10 fps for every inch of draw length.
A few fps for every pound of draw weight under 70.
A few fps for stuff on string (peep, loop, etc)
For every three grains of arrow weight, lose 1 fps
So 484-350= 134
134/3= 45fps
30 fps for draw
So figure 80fps less than advertised. You’ll be about 260 fps @484 grains and maxed out at 60.

With your shoulder problems, I’d recommend pulling less weight, shooting a somewhat lighter arrow, and shooting those Magnus heads you bought.
Definitely wouldn’t go heavier arrow. If you add more, you’ll lose another 10fps and if you end up at 50#, you’ll lose another 10 fps. 240fps isn’t impossible, but you’re not shooting a recurve, lol
Get the most bang for your Buck with a 400 grain and you’ll pick up 25 or 30 fps on your current arrow.

If you need a super heavy insert to make your arrows fly, you have a tuning issue or a form issue.
I really appreciate the time your giving on this. I’m picking up what your putting down too! It makes sense, cept the IBO thing at 70#. If my bow only goes to 60#, indicates 342 fps, I’d have thought that rating came using the bows max capability of the 60#. If it’s based on 70#, the listed 342fps would be like a “theory” or something.
 

James12

Senior Member
Well said above..

My buddy shoots mid 55lbs or so with a 410gr arrow - it’s very quick and he mows em’ down. It’s more than enough!

He shoots the QAD exodus broadheads.

It’s the slow season too for pro shops. I’d go to Mitch’s archery just north of you in Canton, he’s great and has always been so helpful to me.
 
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bfriendly

Bigfoot friendly
Well said aboce.

My buddy shoots mid 55lbs or so with a 410gr arrow - it’s very quick and he mows em’ down. It’s more than enough!

He shoots the QAD exodus broadheads.

It’s the slow season too for pro shops. I’d go to Mitch’s archery just north of you in Canton, he’s great and has always been so helpful to me.
Being the optimist I am, I expect to be able to hold my bow within a month. I’ll try way before that, but have my doubts. Right now, holding a 2# dumbbell out to the side(like a bow) reminds me that I’ve got a ways to go. My little training aid does allow me to practice my anchor positions with a release, but without stress.

AR handle with shockimage.jpg cord, and a nylon loop to hook the release to.
 

Ihunt

Senior Member
Heavy arrows only hurt trajectory but trajectory is very important if you don’t have the time to range the target. Instead of telling someone a weight, I suggest 7-8 gpp of draw weight. It makes an arrow heavier than normal but not so heavy that it puts the arch back into archery. Tip that with a Magnus, Qad Exodus, or a Ramcat broadhead and the deer will not be happy.

I’ve shot deer with 385 grain arrows out of 51lb bows up to 550 grain arrows out if 62lbs bows. The deer died from all.
 

Long Cut

Senior Member
Heavy arrows only hurt trajectory but trajectory is very important if you don’t have the time to range the target. Instead of telling someone a weight, I suggest 7-8 gpp of draw weight. It makes an arrow heavier than normal but not so heavy that it puts the arch back into archery. Tip that with a Magnus, Qad Exodus, or a Ramcat broadhead and the deer will not be happy.

I’ve shot deer with 385 grain arrows out of 51lb bows up to 550 grain arrows out if 62lbs bows. The deer died from all.

This^

I jumped onto the heavy arrow train after an arrow deflection from a small twig, causing me to lose what would have been my biggest buck ever.

Unfortunately the “rainbow” trajectory has also caused me to lose bucks over the past 2 years.

Long story short, I’m going back to “standard” arrow weights in the 400-500 grain range. From my personal experience, 600+ grains for a compound is more of a hinderance than a benefit.
 

bfriendly

Bigfoot friendly
Looking to swap arrows for this upcoming season. I currently use the Gold Tip Hunter HT arrows with a 340 spine. I shoot a Mathews V3X at 60-62lbs.

What’s your arrow of choice?
Hey @NSU1984 , curious as to why you are switching. These guys have me looking at 400 spine arrows versus the 350s I have been using. The 400s are also what the charts have always indicated the proper spine on my specs should be. Without a 400 option at Walmart, I went stiffer…..the 500s were terrible.
I Went to Cabela’s yesterday and those Hunter GTs are well within my budget(actually a little cheaper). But you are leaving them so I am curious why. At 60-62#, I’m wondering if those .340s are too stiff. What’s your DL?
 

ddd-shooter

Senior Member
Hey @NSU1984 , curious as to why you are switching. These guys have me looking at 400 spine arrows versus the 350s I have been using. The 400s are also what the charts have always indicated the proper spine on my specs should be. Without a 400 option at Walmart, I went stiffer…..the 500s were terrible.
I Went to Cabela’s yesterday and those Hunter GTs are well within my budget(actually a little cheaper). But you are leaving them so I am curious why. At 60-62#, I’m wondering if those .340s are too stiff. What’s your DL?
.500 spine is NOT stiffer than .400 spine.

The decimal number is the amount of deflection of the shaft under load, so the larger number indicates a weaker shaft.


The confusing thing is some arrow companies use numbers that don’t correspond to the decimal deflection number. But it should be on all packing some where.
 

bfriendly

Bigfoot friendly
.500 spine is NOT stiffer than .400 spine.

The decimal number is the amount of deflection of the shaft under load, so the larger number indicates a weaker shaft.


The confusing thing is some arrow companies use numbers that don’t correspond to the decimal deflection number. But it should be on all packing some where.
When I said I went stiffer, I was referring to the .350s. I shot the 500s first and they were ok with my first 45# bow and a 26” dl(don’t laugh). When I upgraded to my kids PSE at about 53#, the .500s were too flimsy with the addition of a100gr insert. I get no or very slight tail wagging with the .350s, but I understand they are too stiff and I’m losing velo…. .400 should be ideal.
The OP is switching from .340s at 62# to another arrow….. I’m wondering why and if he’ll have any better results if he shoot’s another .340.
 

ddd-shooter

Senior Member
When I said I went stiffer, I was referring to the .350s. I shot the 500s first and they were ok with my first 45# bow and a 26” dl(don’t laugh). When I upgraded to my kids PSE at about 53#, the .500s were too flimsy with the addition of a100gr insert. I get no or very slight tail wagging with the .350s, but I understand they are too stiff and I’m losing velo…. .400 should be ideal.
The OP is switching from .340s at 62# to another arrow….. I’m wondering why and if he’ll have any better results if he shoot’s another .340.
Gotcha.
A .400 might not be ideal if you still try a 100 grain insert.
 

Ihunt

Senior Member
Use the 350 spine. It will be fine and if you ever play with heavier heads you will have some wiggle room.
 
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