Band saw question

Baroque Brass

Senior Member
Just started using a new band saw and I’ve noticed that where the blade starts the cut, the cut is turned just a little. It then straightens out but the initial cut isn’t straight. I’ve tried making sure the wood was against the fence and very gradually beginning the cut but same results. Ideas?
 

Big7

The Oracle
Is it a vertical or horizontal saw?

Sounds like the guides are to far apart.
You always want to adjust the guides so the barely clear the work piece.

Shoot me a picture. Definitely in my wheelhouse.
Probably something simple.
 

RedHills

Self Banned after losing a Noles bet.
Floor model or table? Regardless, don't trust a new blade or manufacturer setup. Search out Mark Duginski's articles on setup and use. If a nickle will stand up on edge on the table when its running, you're getn close. Also, NEVER let anyone talk you into adjusting the bottom wheel EXCEPT the manufacturer.
 

Baroque Brass

Senior Member
Is it a vertical or horizontal saw?

Sounds like the guides are to far apart.
You always want to adjust the guides so the barely clear the work piece.

Shoot me a picture. Definitely in my wheelhouse.
Probably something simple.
It’s a vertical type, I guess it would be considered table top but it’s on a stand. I haven’t made any adjustments, didn’t know that I should. By guides, I assume you mean the blade guides?
 

Big7

The Oracle
It’s a vertical type, I guess it would be considered table top but it’s on a stand. I haven’t made any adjustments, didn’t know that I should. By guides, I assume you mean the blade guides?
Yes.

The top guide will be mounted on a movable arm.

Adjust it as low as you can without the guide hitting the work piece.

Also check to see that the bottom guide assembly is tight. It's under the table probably through a little door to access.

And... What are you cutting? There should be 3-4 teeth engagement on the work piece. Less than that and the blade is to course. (steel)

Don't run the blade fast except on wood, plastic and aluminum.
 

Big7

The Oracle
Adjust the tension on the blade where you can't move it side to side much with your finger.

To tight will mess up the bearings in the drive and/or idler wheel.
 

Baroque Brass

Senior Member
Yes.

The top guide will be mounted on a movable arm.

Adjust it as low as you can without the guide hitting the work piece.

Also check to see that the bottom guide assembly is tight. It's under the table probably through a little door to access.

And... What are you cutting? There should be 3-4 teeth engagement on the work piece. Less than that and the blade is to course. (steel)

Don't run the blade fast except on wood, plastic and aluminum.
Good info, thanks for that. My wife got me the saw for Christmas a couple years ago but I’ve not had much opportunity to use it until now. I’ll browse the manual and see if adjustments should be made.
 

bassboy1

Senior Member
Bandsaw blades rarely if ever cut 'straight' to the table. There's always going to be a little bit of blade tracking to one side or the other. As a result, if using a fence, the fence needs to be angled to account for that.

Currently, your blade is initially tracking to one side until it runs out of stretch, then it's being drug through the board at an angle once it reaches the limit.

Typically, to set up a fence, you'd draw a straight line on a straight grained scrap of wood about the length of the table, and cut along the line by hand, and stop about halfway through. If you held it steady the whole time, that scrap will be angled with the table the correct amount for that blade. Adjust the angle of your fence to match that and you'll be set until you next change the blade.

Guide block or guide roller adjustment is important on a bandsaw, but they aren't the solution for this issue - trying to tighten the guide blocks enough to keep the blade from tracking just puts the blade in a bind and overheats it.
 
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