Building a shed/shop

[j_seph]

Good morning, as the title states I am in need of building a shed/shop on a low budget.
So my dad passed away and I need to get some things out from their place. Instead of putting it into storage I thought I might as well look at building some kind of small shop. I enjoy messing with wood and such and have discussed this in my head for years so maybe now is the time to move forward. Dad has a drill press, table saw, radial arm saw, my wife's dad had a band saw and then the miter saw I purchased. So why not go ahead and put it into a small shop of some kind where it can be used instead of just being stored away.

My thoughts were that I could use concrete blocks on the ground to go under the outer band. This would keep my wood off the ground and somewhat dry. I have a sawmill near me where the rough cut wood is way cheaper than the big box stores. Has anyone built enclosed shed using this rough cut lumber? As it drys the wood will want to shrink. Is it possible to frame the walls, floor and such with this wood? Seems like 100 years ago they did and those structures are still standing today.

 

[NE GA Pappy]

The green lumber will be fine for a shop building. I built one years ago and it did fine.
It is not as weather tight as a dried lumber building would be, but I am not trying to heat and cool it either.

The lumber will shrink, but mostly in width, not in thickness or length. I had 1 x 8's cut, and put them on the outside in a lapped fashion for the siding.

I don't think I would use the green lumber for the floor framing if it is going to be close to the ground. I would use pressure treated lumber for that. But for the walls, the rafters and event the siding, I wouldn't bat an eye.

 

[j_seph]

The green lumber will be fine for a shop building. I built one years ago and it did fine.
It is not as weather tight as a dried lumber building would be, but I am not trying to heat and cool it either.

The lumber will shrink, but mostly in width, not in thickness or length. I had 1 x 8's cut, and put them on the outside in a lapped fashion for the siding.

I don't think I would use the green lumber for the floor framing if it is going to be close to the ground. I would use pressure treated lumber for that. But for the walls, the rafters and event the siding, I wouldn't bat an eye.

I was looking at a video doing the board an batten method seemed to close the air gaps.

 

[earlthegoat2]

Houses used to always be built with green lumber that was cut on site. Even into the 1900s. Many of those houses are still standing and as structurally sound and more than anything else built today.

 

[Hooked On Quack]

Only advice I can give is, build it twice the size you think you need . . kinda like a gun safe, it'll be full in a minute.

 

[NE GA Pappy]

I was looking at a video doing the board an batten method seemed to close the air gaps.

yes, you can do it that way.

You will need to frame in nailers so you can run the boards vertically, and when you put the batten strips over the cracks of the boards, only nail them to one of the boards. If you nail it into both boards, when they shrink up, you will pull nails out or crack boards.

 

[j_seph]

yes, you can do it that way.

You will need to frame in nailers so you can run the boards vertically, and when you put the batten strips over the cracks of the boards, only nail them to one of the boards. If you nail it into both boards, when they shrink up, you will pull nails out or crack boards.

The video I watched they actually screwed the batten board with one screw in center that went through the crack between the 2 siding boards.

 

[longbowdave1]

Sorry to hear you Dad passed. Great idea to buikd a shop for his tools. Take pictures as you build, we would love to see them.

 

[NE GA Pappy]

The video I watched they actually screwed the batten board with one screw in center that went through the crack between the 2 siding boards.

that will work. You just have to miss the 2 boards. I like jamming the boards together tight, and then nailing or screwing the batten to one board, because I know the boards are gonna draw up and I want that gap as small as possible

 

[Jim Baker]

Check building codes before you start especially if your property is zoned residential.

That said I would build a pole barn and close it in over using concrete blocks that would require a footing on outside wall and interior piers.

You can create a floor system using the outside wall posts and piers out of 6x6 treated posts.

 

[Jimmypop]

I built two rental houses and a shop/garage using band saw lumber sawed to finished size .We sawed the logs in a meadow and left the lumber stacked about six weeks before using it. That's been several years ago and haven't had any problems at all.

 

[Milkman]

Joe have you considered a metal building on a slab? Lots of options out there.

 

[j_seph]

Joe have you considered a metal building on a slab? Lots of options out there.

The slab is where some big money comes in extra lol

 

[dwhee87]

Some good shed plans at this website.

https://www.ag.ndsu.edu/extension-aben/buildingplans/miscellaneous

 

[j_seph]

So maybe a change of plans. I have a 18'x36' carport. The back is enclosed already and I am thinking I can have it extended 10 feet on the open end. By doing so that would leave me 18'x20' in the back with my boat being under shed. How would one go about placing/adding floor joist to the bottom tubing as well as spanning the 18 foot width. Seems they have discontinued board stretchers to reach 18 foot and would you just place cap blocks down the mid point at 9 foot and carry them towards the back every 5 feet?

 

[Pig Predator]

Thats only 4 1/2 yards of concrete at 4 inches thick. I think it would be cheaper and easier to pour it.

 

[j_seph]

Thats only 4 1/2 yards of concrete at 4 inches thick. I think it would be cheaper and easier to pour it.

How did you know I was just doing the math on that lol
6in deep would be 1279.72 for concrete so around 914 for 5yd at 4in deep. Freaking lumber is roughly 941 for framing and 3/4 plywood decking

 

[Pig Predator]

How did you know I was just doing the math on that lol
6in deep would be 1279.72 for concrete so around 914 for 5yd at 4in deep. Freaking lumber is roughly 941 for framing and 3/4 plywood decking

If you used advantech subfloor(which is what I'd use) 12 sheets at $80 a piece is almost $1000, not counting the framing and blocks or headache/time setting all that up right. Id just pour it and be done.

 

[Son]

If you have a good carpenter friend, he can give you some pointers, short cuts and save you lots of money building with wood. Walls can be framed laying down. Stand them up and tie them in. For a small shed, I like a wood floor sitting on blocks, treated lumber there. There are many options for siding. Wiring?

 

[tree cutter 08]

Purlins every 3 foot in height up the wall. Put 1 screw in the center of your boards. Then put 1 screw in the center of the batten missing the board on each side. Those wide boards will come and go with the seasons and if nailed on the edges they can crack and split the wood.