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Is faster better
- Thread starter leroy
- Start date
Railroader
Billy’s Security Guard.
To WAY oversimplify...
For any given round and any given rifle combination, the max load (fastest) very rarely gives the best accuracy.
And vicey-versy.
Volumes and volumes have been written about "the chase"...
For any given round and any given rifle combination, the max load (fastest) very rarely gives the best accuracy.
And vicey-versy.
Volumes and volumes have been written about "the chase"...
bullethead
Of the hard cast variety
I've always let the gun tell me what it likes, but I have never had a problem with fast being inaccurate. If 50fps or 150fps more opens a group another 1/4" so be it. I never saw the sense in shooting a 300 Mag at '06 velocity and why shoot an '06 at 300Savage velocity?
Some of my most accurate loads are light for caliber Barnes bullets screaming well over what a standard weight will do.
Buckstop
Senior Member
I've usually had good results with fuller case fill and usually pick a powder that gives that. That usually ends up faster, but speeds not worth sacrificing accuracy if it won't group.
But my starting loads are always 10% to 15% below max manual recommendations. Not every rifle is going to reach the max book load before being over pressure. They are all different. Work up slowly.
But my starting loads are always 10% to 15% below max manual recommendations. Not every rifle is going to reach the max book load before being over pressure. They are all different. Work up slowly.
Jester896
Senior Clown
sometimes you can find 2 nodes it likes between min and max.
If fast is accurate then fine...if your talking about hunting rounds... the one that gives you the best possible ability for good shot placement is the one I would choose.
I generally start 1gr under and go down. I have started in the middle and not shot all of the second or even the 3rd ladder. I have started at the min and exceeded the max a touch. All that to say it just depends on the rifle.
like Buckstop I try to look for loads that will give above a 90% fill
If fast is accurate then fine...if your talking about hunting rounds... the one that gives you the best possible ability for good shot placement is the one I would choose.
I generally start 1gr under and go down. I have started in the middle and not shot all of the second or even the 3rd ladder. I have started at the min and exceeded the max a touch. All that to say it just depends on the rifle.
like Buckstop I try to look for loads that will give above a 90% fill
deerslayer357
Senior Member
I usually start out with a powder I already have on hand and try it first. I will start midway between start load and max load, and load 5 or so in 1/2 grain increments, frequently stopping just shy of max load. After shooting those I may go back and load another ladder between the best two or switch to a different powder if I am not satisfied. Sometimes I end up 2-3 grains from max, sometimes I end up .2-.3 grains from max, but the groups decide it for me.
menhadenman
Senior Member
I’ve heard some guys say 10% off the max load… like 36.0 if max is 40.0. Then work up in whatever interval you can support. I like 0.5 gr for large rifle, maybe 0.3 gr for smaller.
I’ve learned a lot last couple years from guys like jester deer slayer and briar patch. My first 10-12 years of reloading was picking the load just below max and cranking out a bunch on a beam scale and powder drop… hoping it shot but if not I’d just use it to spank rocks out back.
I’ve learned a lot last couple years from guys like jester deer slayer and briar patch. My first 10-12 years of reloading was picking the load just below max and cranking out a bunch on a beam scale and powder drop… hoping it shot but if not I’d just use it to spank rocks out back.
BriarPatch99
Senior Member
Normally there are multiple accuracy nodes in listed data.... I search for the ones "near" the maximum....
If I am interested in a slower load....I move down in cartridge size....
Example.... If you have a 7 mm Remington magnum.... but loaded it to 7mm Mauser levels ....then in my opinion ...you would be better off loading for a 7 mm Mauser...
If I am interested in a slower load....I move down in cartridge size....
Example.... If you have a 7 mm Remington magnum.... but loaded it to 7mm Mauser levels ....then in my opinion ...you would be better off loading for a 7 mm Mauser...
bighonkinjeep
Senior Member
Ummm, I'd suggest reading the first section of every load manual ever written. You know the part about starting at start loads and working up to max watching for pressure signs???
Have I ever jumped.ahead a little? Yep I have, but going straight to a max charge is asking for trouble.
Each rifle.and component is an individual and just because you got away with it last time or even 100 times before that doesnt mean its safe or adviseable. You only get one set of hands and.one face.
Stay safe
Have I ever jumped.ahead a little? Yep I have, but going straight to a max charge is asking for trouble.
Each rifle.and component is an individual and just because you got away with it last time or even 100 times before that doesnt mean its safe or adviseable. You only get one set of hands and.one face.
Stay safe
I always start several grains below max and work up in 1/2 a grain increments. I’ve hit pressure signs before book max on several of my rifles.
I’m looking for speed and accuracy when I find a load. If I’m shooting a 30-06 I don’t want 308 velocities.
I’m looking for speed and accuracy when I find a load. If I’m shooting a 30-06 I don’t want 308 velocities.
bighonkinjeep
Senior Member
Just as another caution as it relates to following published load data.
Contrary to what one might think going BELOW published minimums can also.be very dangerous blow your gun up and cause all kinds of hazards.
These include crazy overpressure spikes ( bullet starts then lodges in the throat, powder continues to burn behimd it creating overpressure and blows your hiney up), Squib loads that lodge a bullet firmly in the barrel without exiting ( next one down blows your hiney up) and if you do catch it it can be in there so tight you cant get it out without damaging your bore, ( a wood or brass dowell down the bore will often expand the bullet tighter into the bore). Hang fires (click 1,2,3, KABOOM and the bullet goes where ever your barrel is pointed when it finally decides to go off). And other crazy anomolys.
Dont go below published minimums and only reduce loads using the right powders and with published data from the manufacturers.
It seems in the internet age everybody's looking for an online shortcut. If youre a begining handloader PLEASE find a good manual then sit and read and pay attention to all the parts before the load data and develop an understanding of the basic rules and processes.
Handloading is easy and safe but you need to follow the printed rules. EVEN IF YOU DONT UNDERSTAND EXACTLY WHY OR IT DOESNTMAKE SENSE TO YOU. They'll keep yourself and those around you safe.
Its NOT all "Lawyer Stuff and disclaimers". Most of whats in a good manual prior to the data is important and based on actual science.
Good luck Stay safe
Contrary to what one might think going BELOW published minimums can also.be very dangerous blow your gun up and cause all kinds of hazards.
These include crazy overpressure spikes ( bullet starts then lodges in the throat, powder continues to burn behimd it creating overpressure and blows your hiney up), Squib loads that lodge a bullet firmly in the barrel without exiting ( next one down blows your hiney up) and if you do catch it it can be in there so tight you cant get it out without damaging your bore, ( a wood or brass dowell down the bore will often expand the bullet tighter into the bore). Hang fires (click 1,2,3, KABOOM and the bullet goes where ever your barrel is pointed when it finally decides to go off). And other crazy anomolys.
Dont go below published minimums and only reduce loads using the right powders and with published data from the manufacturers.
It seems in the internet age everybody's looking for an online shortcut. If youre a begining handloader PLEASE find a good manual then sit and read and pay attention to all the parts before the load data and develop an understanding of the basic rules and processes.
Handloading is easy and safe but you need to follow the printed rules. EVEN IF YOU DONT UNDERSTAND EXACTLY WHY OR IT DOESNTMAKE SENSE TO YOU. They'll keep yourself and those around you safe.
Its NOT all "Lawyer Stuff and disclaimers". Most of whats in a good manual prior to the data is important and based on actual science.
Good luck Stay safe
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