menhadenman
Senior Member
I went about 40# and felt like I was getting to a spot where I should stop… you reckon that’s about right?
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New Boyd stock on Savage 25-06
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bighonkinjeep
Senior Member
I'd see what Boyds says.
Im sure Ive seen it but I cant remember.
Im sure Ive seen it but I cant remember.
Dub
Senior Member
menhadenman
Senior Member
Dangedest thing is the paperwork and their website didn't have any info. I set it to 40 in-lbs but probably didn't even get there.
Looking again this morning I found a video on Boyd's website with a simple install and he's telling the young lady doing it to go 35.
Google directed me to a few other forums that have a variety of answers and I think where I landed should be safe. Some guys are saying to jack it up to 50 if you have pillars and bedding.
The target will probably tell me the answer. Dying to get out there with that new scope on top of it now, next week for sure.
B. White
Senior Member
I set them to 35 on the heritage I got a few weeks ago. Didn’t read what it was supposed to be, but felt about right.
menhadenman
Senior Member
Well @Jester896 and @bighonkinjeep - mixed results from the range.
My first group was hideous after bore sighting then three at 50 yards. I nearly put the gun up because it’s never shot anything like this.
I figured let’s give it another go, adjusted the scope then shot something much more respectable. Can’t say how the first one was so awful but the second made me feel a little better.
Then I figured why not try it at 100 yds after another few clicks in the scope.
I felt a little better after the first three but called it good there (only had a partial box of 117 SSTs). They clocked in at 2971 fps by the way.
I have another box of the 117s so may shoot it a little more but as it sits now I feel like maybe pillars and glass are in order.
I’m not hunting with this rifle this year so can easily tackle it in the off-season when I’ll have more time for reloading and such.
Let me know if you have any suggestions or thoughts. I’m glad I shot more than 3 because that woulda been a bad taste in my mouth.
On a side note my son’s 243 is dead nuts with the handloads (90 grain hot cor with 45 gr of StaBall ~ 2,973 fps). Seems like I should push that one a little more but for now it’ll hunt.
My first group was hideous after bore sighting then three at 50 yards. I nearly put the gun up because it’s never shot anything like this.
I figured let’s give it another go, adjusted the scope then shot something much more respectable. Can’t say how the first one was so awful but the second made me feel a little better.
Then I figured why not try it at 100 yds after another few clicks in the scope.
I felt a little better after the first three but called it good there (only had a partial box of 117 SSTs). They clocked in at 2971 fps by the way.
I have another box of the 117s so may shoot it a little more but as it sits now I feel like maybe pillars and glass are in order.
I’m not hunting with this rifle this year so can easily tackle it in the off-season when I’ll have more time for reloading and such.
Let me know if you have any suggestions or thoughts. I’m glad I shot more than 3 because that woulda been a bad taste in my mouth.
On a side note my son’s 243 is dead nuts with the handloads (90 grain hot cor with 45 gr of StaBall ~ 2,973 fps). Seems like I should push that one a little more but for now it’ll hunt.
Darkhorse
Senior Member
You can bring that group in by trying different bullet seating depths until you find the node.
Here is an example; It's kinda hard to see but each group is seated to a different depth. Varying the powder charge can have the same effect. Both methods change the point in the barrel oscillation where the bullet exits. This is my final fine tuning method when I work up a load.
Here is an example; It's kinda hard to see but each group is seated to a different depth. Varying the powder charge can have the same effect. Both methods change the point in the barrel oscillation where the bullet exits. This is my final fine tuning method when I work up a load.
menhadenman
Senior Member
Thanks - I just swapped the stock out and this particular action/barrel always shot the factory 117s well so I used that as the baseline to figure whether I should bed the action.You can bring that group in by trying different bullet seating depths until you find the node.
Here is an example; It's kinda hard to see but each group is seated to a different depth. Varying the powder charge can have the same effect. Both methods change the point in the barrel oscillation where the bullet exits. This is my final fine tuning method when I work up a load.
I think you’re absolutely correct that some handloads could get me much closer but I’m wondering if another $50 and a few hours of my time is a wise choose to get that action in a good spot.
Darkhorse
Senior Member
I think handloads set up for accuracy and a rifle set up for accuracy can walk down that sidewalk hand in hand. One without the other is going to trip over the curb.
With the rifle in that example I decided not to do one without the other. Did the rifle first so I was able to concentrate on working up a accurate load.
With the rifle in that example I decided not to do one without the other. Did the rifle first so I was able to concentrate on working up a accurate load.
Jester896
Senior Clown
did you check barrel float cold and then hot? I'm sure the different stock material will change the harmonics to a degree from what you are accustomed to. Work with it a little more. What were the speeds prior to now...I thought they ran in the 2990s
menhadenman
Senior Member
I didn’t think to check that but it’s floated pretty good - I can toss a frisbee under the barrel.
I never checked speed before. Bought it in 2007 when I was just starting to reload. Never focused on this one because a box of those SSTs were good for a few 3 round groups and animals with the rest.
Any reason to expect velocity to change?
menhadenman
Senior Member
By the way, that Huron they have at Europtics for $300 is a great buy. I’d grab one if I were you. Don’t necessarily care for BDC stuff as much as I used too but you can’t beat that price for a reliable scope.
Also have one of the new Credo scopes that’s about a year old sitting in the safe. It may go on my old school 7 mag.
Also have one of the new Credo scopes that’s about a year old sitting in the safe. It may go on my old school 7 mag.
bighonkinjeep
Senior Member
Sometimes factory barrels can be kinda funny about how clean they are. I've got a couple that dont settle down without a couple of fouling shots.
Bedding the recoil lug for even consistant full contact is also someting i'm a believer in. I put several layers of tape and some release agent on the front bottom and sides of the recoil lug when I do mine to create clearance all around except the back where the recoil is transferred to the stock. I also relieve some of the stock material at the lug recess so I get a nice decent coat of epoxy and not just a skim coat.
Heres an article from accurate shooter on torque tuning from Stan Pate the captain of Savages National championship F-TR Team.
This was published several years ago and i've found it works well with a known accurate load.
(PS Just to be sure. Yours is a two screw action the third screw is a wood screw that simply retains the trigger guard)
Good luck and
I hope some of this helps.
Bedding the recoil lug for even consistant full contact is also someting i'm a believer in. I put several layers of tape and some release agent on the front bottom and sides of the recoil lug when I do mine to create clearance all around except the back where the recoil is transferred to the stock. I also relieve some of the stock material at the lug recess so I get a nice decent coat of epoxy and not just a skim coat.
Heres an article from accurate shooter on torque tuning from Stan Pate the captain of Savages National championship F-TR Team.
This was published several years ago and i've found it works well with a known accurate load.
(PS Just to be sure. Yours is a two screw action the third screw is a wood screw that simply retains the trigger guard)
Good luck and
I hope some of this helps.
Liberty
Senior Member
A good skim bed of the action with good glass or reinforced epoxy has always done the trick for us. That being said, there is always a better way that I either don't know or won't put in the effort for. If I ever get 3/4 moa, it gets left alone. Your rig looks great.
menhadenman
Senior Member
Thanks I’ll give it a look - and yea I’ve got two screws with a third on trigger guard.
Jester896
Senior Clown
I have a couple of rifles that actions are skim bedded...the rest aren't...most of them the recoil lug isn't bedded either. The only wood stock I think I have that is bedded is my M1A.
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