Jester896
Senior Clown
@Nicodemus thank you for the rescue!
Enjoy the morsels
Enjoy the morsels
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- Thread starter Jester896
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Glad I could help and it worked! Them goodies will be going on the grill tomorrow evening!
Hillbilly stalker
Senior Member
I occasionally use a brush if I’ve done a bunch of shooting. If I do, I use a nylon brush, it will fold up the bristles before stripping the threads. Never a metal or brass brush. If you need additional friction you can wrap a cleaning patch around it. Also I always use a range rod to clean with, they are tougher and you won’t pull the pin out of your wooden one. If you get anything else stuck, if you can get 550 cord tied around it and tie it off on a post or tree, you can get a little slack in the cord and snatch it free. You’re gonna have fun with that rifle. Working up a load is half the fun. There’s a reason most BP rifles have a females name……they’re pretty picky or finicky about the perfect load. But it’s fun getting there.
Jester896
Senior Clown
@Hillbilly stalker that was my main problem...no range rod. There is one in the cart now at midway but I see Powder Valley has free hazmat over $99. I ran a borescope down her before I committed. I just wanted to make sure i got her clean with the brush. I was well on my way to getting her clean with patch and jag. I have a bunch of work to do on her so I'm not in a big hurry. Going to be fun shooting round balls with it. Probably will use the other one to hunt with but ya neva know.
The wedge need to be fitted properly, the escutcheon screw holes on one side need repair, there is some surface rust inside the lock and a couple of other minor details. It looks like every screw on it was too tight. I think the lock plate is tweaked a bit because the screw was rubbing on the back of the hammer. I worked on the inlet for the top of the lock and got it fitting better, now the bottom needs attention and true oil to finish that up.
everything is a work in progress it seems.
The wedge need to be fitted properly, the escutcheon screw holes on one side need repair, there is some surface rust inside the lock and a couple of other minor details. It looks like every screw on it was too tight. I think the lock plate is tweaked a bit because the screw was rubbing on the back of the hammer. I worked on the inlet for the top of the lock and got it fitting better, now the bottom needs attention and true oil to finish that up.
everything is a work in progress it seems.
Hillbilly stalker
Senior Member
Mite double check that wedge, some are bowed ( intentionally) to provide tension so they are snug. One way will fit better than the other. Like to see a picture when you get her lined out.
Jester896
Senior Clown
it looks straight on one side and has a taper on the other but it doesn't have a bow. I watched a Lyman factory tech show a way to adjust it if it was too tight so the holes line up. You have to pull the barrel down pretty hard to get it to slide through now. I think my buddy that owned it probably drove it through and that tore the escutcheon out. One side is stripped and the screw is missing on that side and the other isn't in real good shape. If you didn't take the anvil away from him...he might tear it up.
Jester896
Senior Clown
I stand corrected it is bowed. The tang sits so far out of the inlet I'm not sure it will ever be close until that's fixed...smh.
trad bow
wooden stick slinging driveler
You can order two or three wedges from Dixie or TOW. You’ll need a spare or two for when you lose one
Jester896
Senior Clown
One is on the way. This one has brass in it. I will straighten the old one and save as a spare and see if I can get the rest fixed. The missing escutcheon screw came in yesterday. Going to swap grit on the bench top sander to make sure that pile of chisels are real sharp to work on the inlet a little.
Darkhorse
Senior Member
Shooters have their own ways of doing things, here’s mine.
My computer crashed so I had to get a new one and it's kicking my rear end trying to type. So I q uit. Later.
- I only shoot flintlocks with patched round balls and real black powder. I use .015 patching for practice and .0175 pillow ticking for hunting. I buy in bulk and cut at the muzzle. I don’t use old tshirts and such to patch my bullets. I either buy at a fabric shop or online. For best accuracy all things must be consistent. The material must be 100% cotton with no nylon. If you burn it and it drips instead of burns y ou don’t want it. The best material I have found I bought at
- easternmaineshootingsupplies.com
- I shoot Mr. Flintlocks lube for practice but not for hunting because it will dry out and rust your barrel. I use bore butter to lube my .54 for deer. And Canola oil for turkey hunting in my .40, both of these have proven to be accurate and can be left loaded for a long time.
My computer crashed so I had to get a new one and it's kicking my rear end trying to type. So I q uit. Later.
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Jester896
Senior Clown
Thanks @Darkhorse ! I have .015 and .018 pre-lubed patches on the way to see which work best with the Hornady .490 ball I ordered. Both are lubed with Precision Lube 2000. I also have some lub coming to cut and make my own patches with cotton from the fabric store.
I don't have any FFFg coming but wouldn't that load be close to 80gr of FFg? It would be nice to see the accuracy that you are getting.
I don't have any FFFg coming but wouldn't that load be close to 80gr of FFg? It would be nice to see the accuracy that you are getting.
Darkhorse
Senior Member
60 grains of 3fg should be pretty close to 80 grains of 2fg. I'm not sure how close but I do have a chart showing the difference. When I find it I will post the results.
http://www.goexpowder.com/images/LoadCharts/RB-Rifle-Musket.pdf
This chart doesn't show comparisons but it does show velocity with different powder charges. When you open it up it says"Page not found." Go to the top of the page and click on resources then click on load data.
I've never tried Swiss but regardless of FG size it must be treated as a new powder and retested in your rifle.
I am perfectly happy with GOEX and some time ago I bought a quanity of both 2fg and 3fg meaning to test both for accuracy. I have yet to complete those tests.
In my testing of 3fg in both the .40 and .54 I have shot hundreds if not thousands of rounds for accuracy varying the patch lube, patch thickness, powder charge, etc. All testing is done from a solid bench rest, I never hold the weapon in my hands when testing for accuracy. If I get 3 shots in a tight group I generally shoot a few 5 shot groups to really test that load using the same exact components then enter that data in a notebook for future reference. I am after a light load for squirrels and such and a heavy load for deer and hogs and turkey. Somewhere in there I'll find my most accurate load and use that for match shooting or anything else.
I never use anything but pure water to clean my BP guns, sometimes with a little soap added. I've never seen anything that beats water.
This next photo is just a test method of uploading a photo. This is a new computer with a new operating system Windows 11 and I'm trying to learn all that it will do. It is still giving problems trying to type a post.
http://www.goexpowder.com/images/LoadCharts/RB-Rifle-Musket.pdf
This chart doesn't show comparisons but it does show velocity with different powder charges. When you open it up it says"Page not found." Go to the top of the page and click on resources then click on load data.
I've never tried Swiss but regardless of FG size it must be treated as a new powder and retested in your rifle.
I am perfectly happy with GOEX and some time ago I bought a quanity of both 2fg and 3fg meaning to test both for accuracy. I have yet to complete those tests.
In my testing of 3fg in both the .40 and .54 I have shot hundreds if not thousands of rounds for accuracy varying the patch lube, patch thickness, powder charge, etc. All testing is done from a solid bench rest, I never hold the weapon in my hands when testing for accuracy. If I get 3 shots in a tight group I generally shoot a few 5 shot groups to really test that load using the same exact components then enter that data in a notebook for future reference. I am after a light load for squirrels and such and a heavy load for deer and hogs and turkey. Somewhere in there I'll find my most accurate load and use that for match shooting or anything else.
I never use anything but pure water to clean my BP guns, sometimes with a little soap added. I've never seen anything that beats water.
This next photo is just a test method of uploading a photo. This is a new computer with a new operating system Windows 11 and I'm trying to learn all that it will do. It is still giving problems trying to type a post.
I'm glad that pic was just a test. Head shots on turkey targets are frowned upon by some. LOL
Jester896
Senior Clown
i don't know why...they aren't going to use that head on your mount anyway.
Jester896
Senior Clown
Thanks for the link @Darkhorse. I used Goex FFg the other day in the Hawken. The Ruger got better results with either of the substitutes (loose) than it did with Goex. When Powder Valley ran no haz-mat the other day I almost loaded up but they didn't have half of what I wanted. I have a couple # of loose subtitute on the way through my LGS but waiting to see what really shows up. I hate to raid the stock friends have.
Darkhorse
Senior Member
I used to do a lot of shooting at the Ocmulgee rifle range and when they legalized scopes or something I'm not sure, a bunch of folks showed up with new inlines. All had various problems and came to me, shooting a flint lock, for help. Many of these were caused by pellets of substitute black powder, like Pyrodex for example. One end of the pellet would be burned but had not ignited.
Reading this section will find many posts of people with the same issue. Yet when they tried loose powder, especially real black powder they began getting good ignition.
I strongly recommend using loose powder for hunting. And I would use real black powder for reliable, good ignition. When hunting that first shot COUNTS!
I haven't tried to shoot a gobbler in the head with my 40 caliber flintlock but the next time I get one in close enough, and if he will stand still long enough, I'm shooting for the head.
It's been 2 years that I've missed the spring turkey season due to the population crashing and health problems but I plan to this year. In the meantime I'll do some shooting to see how sharp I am. If I'm not I still have time to shoot more and sharpen up some.
Reading this section will find many posts of people with the same issue. Yet when they tried loose powder, especially real black powder they began getting good ignition.
I strongly recommend using loose powder for hunting. And I would use real black powder for reliable, good ignition. When hunting that first shot COUNTS!
I haven't tried to shoot a gobbler in the head with my 40 caliber flintlock but the next time I get one in close enough, and if he will stand still long enough, I'm shooting for the head.
It's been 2 years that I've missed the spring turkey season due to the population crashing and health problems but I plan to this year. In the meantime I'll do some shooting to see how sharp I am. If I'm not I still have time to shoot more and sharpen up some.
trad bow
wooden stick slinging driveler
I know that head shots are frowned upon by a majority of turkey hunters but I have a 32 caliber flintlock that I’m going to use this year hunting turkey. If I do my part correctly then a head shot is not out of the question. Due to five shoulder surgeries in the past 18 months, I’m not ready for a shotgun recoil on my shoulder.
trad bow
wooden stick slinging driveler
Shooting for the head is a kill or miss shot. I know lots of turkey hunters using bows that shoot for the head. It seems some people think everyone should hunt with shotguns the exact same way they do or they are doing it wrong. As long as it’s legal then you do you and I’ll do me.
It has always been a wonderment to me that head shots were OK on turkeys and squirrels actually greatly preferred by some but were not ever OK on the much more majestic pine goat. LOL
trad bow
wooden stick slinging driveler
Shootem in the head. Don’t bother me. I prefer a good behind the ear shot on hogs myself.
