Sighting in a rifle

chrislibby88

Senior Member
I shoot 308, and zero my guns at 50/200yards, same zero for a 308. Start with bore sighting it at 100. I put it in a lead sled, remove the bolt, look with my eye down the bore and get the bore and scope centered at 100 on a target, then start shooting at 50 and get it dialed. Usually only takes 3-5 shots to get a perfect zero.
 

kmckinnie

BOT KILLER MODERATOR
Staff member
Have any of y’all used the laser shell. U put it in the chamber turned on and gives the dot. Then click the scope to it then shoot to finish sight in.
Just wondering if they worked ok.
 

00Beau

Senior Member
Have any of y’all used the laser shell. U put it in the chamber turned on and gives the dot. Then click the scope to it then shoot to finish sight in.
Just wondering if they worked ok.
Yes, I have two different ones. Gets you very close but you still need to shoot and dial in.
 

Lilly001

Senior Member
Yes, I have two different ones. Gets you very close but you still need to shoot and dial in.
I use both the one you put in the gun and the one you put in the barrel.
They are close but I always shoot to confirm as they only show the bore aimed point. You have to know the trajectory of your particular gun/ ammo combination.
They are dead on for windage and are good for checking your gun if you remember to record the ammo/riffle alignment (it will be different for each ammo/rifle combination).
 

sleepr71

Senior Member
1)Laser bore sight
2) Shoot at 25
3) Shoot at 100
4) Clean,then shoot again on another day..to see where it hits with a cold bore.
5) I set my hunting rifles to hit 1-2” high at 100..which equals MPBR around 250 yds. 3” low at 250,6”low at 300. After that..gotta shoot it & KNOW your rifle…then write it down.!
 

notnksnemor

The Great and Powerful Oz
I sand bag the rifle and fire 1 round at 25 yards with the crosshairs on the center of the target.
Re-sand bag for stability with crosshairs on center of target and without moving the rifle, move the crosshairs to the poi.
Then zero 1" high at 100 yards.

.270 130 gr.
 

WOODIE13

2023 TURKEY CHALLENGE 1st place Team
Zeroing that close runs the risk for a high shot at 100 yards with some loads and calibers. I would be willing to bet a 25 zero with a 6.5 may have you as much as six inches or more high at 100 based on trajectory of the bullet. Zeroing at 50 would be better in my opinion. That would still put you a little high at 100. Maybe 2-3 inches with most calibers but closer to 0 at 200.
You would lose that one with mine.

25 yds just gets you on paper and saves ammo trying at 100, done it for years and works for me.
 

huntfish

Senior Member
1)Laser bore sight
2) Shoot at 25
3) Shoot at 100
4) Clean,then shoot again on another day..to see where it hits with a cold bore.
5) I set my hunting rifles to hit 1-2” high at 100..which equals MPBR around 250 yds. 3” low at 250,6”low at 300. After that..gotta shoot it & KNOW your rifle…then write it down.!
With this, you can stay on body out to about 400 yards. Once you go beyond, you'll need to raise cross hairs off the body and it gets tricky.
 

transfixer

Senior Member
For those that zero at short distances, keep in mind 1/4 inch off from your aiming point at 25yds can translate to an 1inch or even way more at 100yds, depending on caliber and height of scope over barrel,

I have rifles I zero at 200yds and then shoot at closer distances memorizing the point of impact at the closer distances, I do the same with rifles I zero at 100yds, but I'm not a "minute of deer" hunter, if I aim for the horsefly currently sitting on the top of the deers shoulder, I expect to hit that horsefly, or at the very least make him move .

to each his own, but I won't risk losing a deer because of a bad shot
 

Hunter922

Senior Member
.308 Tc Encore / 168 GR Superformance sst..100 yard cold bore shot on a 2 inch green dot. In my mind when shooting for 0-50 I know I'm low likely 2-3 inches. Just shoot high shoulder at less that 100... If the deer is @ 200 I have a better chance of hitting it with a GoldTip... :bounce:

Screenshot_20231202_135221_Gallery.jpg
 

Tight Lines

Senior Member
It really depends on the rifle and round for me...

I have CQB ARs with a red dot that are zeroed at 25...precision ARs with scopes zeroed at 100...

Pistols zeroed at 25...rimfires zeroed at 50...or using a BDC reticle...

Most long range weapons are zeroed at MPBR for the round and usage...so I can basically hold without adjustments on those to 300+ yards...

If it is a rifle with tactical turrets, I zero for the usage...the 6.5CM is zeroed at 100 but my turrets are set out to 400...so I am holding crosshairs DNO out to 400...

If the rifle has a BDC reticle, probably zeroed at 100 to match the BDC calculations...

25 yards is just to get on paper for the most part for me...square the scope, bore sight it, 25 yards on paper, then zero according to the above for me...

I'm rarely hunting more than 200 yards, more likely inside 100...
 

furtaker

Senior Member
No way I'm zeroing my rifle at 25yds.

If you're off a little at 25 then you'll be way off at 100 and a mile off at 200.

Those of you who say dead on at 25 puts you an inch high at 100, have you actually checked it on paper at 100? I would think you'd be several inches high and like I said if you're just a little left at 25 you'll be way left at longer distances.
 

sleepr71

Senior Member
With this, you can stay on body out to about 400 yards. Once you go beyond, you'll need to raise cross hairs off the body and it gets tricky.

Depends on caliber…but 243 & similar rounds…At 300,I hold on Spine (2” from top of deer). At 350 I hold 4” over Deer..and at 400 I hold a foot over(2nd line on my Leupold B&C reticle). With these holdovers..I have 3-4” of error..but still hit center mass on a deer. I have only shot 2 Deer in GA over 400 yds & honestly try not to. Too many things can go wrong & I don’t practice very much at those ranges. 350 & in..and I’m deadly.
 
Top