Kev
Senior Member
Yes, me too. Very good question.I’m glad I asked.
Yes, me too. Very good question.I’m glad I asked.
.308 Tc Encore / 168 GR Superformance sst..100 yard cold bore shot on a 2 inch green dot. In my mind when shooting for 0-50 I know I'm low likely 2-3 inches. Just shoot high shoulder at less that 100... If the deer is @ 200 I have a better chance of hitting it with a GoldTip...
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A good one may work, but I had a cheap one and the lazer didn’t shoot out the barrel even when the cartridge was seated. If I mount a scope I bore sight it with my eyes after removing the carrier. Using an orange dot at about 20, I set my barrel in line with it, then adjust the scope….vertically, it’s off a touch, but horizontally it will be real close.Have any of y’all used the laser shell. U put it in the chamber turned on and gives the dot. Then click the scope to it then shoot to finish sight in.
Just wondering if they worked ok.
Yes but ff you zero at 200 yards, most common calibers are within 22" of drop at 400 yards. With that, you can hold at spine at 400 yards and still be in the kill zone for a whitetail. Even more true on larger animals mule deer and up. Allows for a quick reflex shot without having to figure out exact distances etc.Depends on caliber…but 243 & similar rounds…At 300,I hold on Spine (2” from top of deer). At 350 I hold 4” over Deer..and at 400 I hold a foot over(2nd line on my Leupold B&C reticle). With these holdovers..I have 3-4” of error..but still hit center mass on a deer. I have only shot 2 Deer in GA over 400 yds & honestly try not to. Too many things can go wrong & I don’t practice very much at those ranges. 350 & in..and I’m deadly.
No way I'm zeroing my rifle at 25yds.
If you're off a little at 25 then you'll be way off at 100 and a mile off at 200.
Those of you who say dead on at 25 puts you an inch high at 100, have you actually checked it on paper at 100? I would think you'd be several inches high and like I said if you're just a little left at 25 you'll be way left at longer distances.
Quick reflex shot at 400? Cool storyYes but ff you zero at 200 yards, most common calibers are within 22" of drop at 400 yards. With that, you can hold at spine at 400 yards and still be in the kill zone for a whitetail. Even more true on larger animals mule deer and up. Allows for a quick reflex shot without having to figure out exact distances etc.
Good stuff and I’m trying to hold my trigger through the shot after reading similar shooting tips. I like the thought of holding until you come out of recoil! I have never heard it described this way, but gonna let that one sink in For sure!Go to range. Set out target at 100 yards / meters user preference but must be the unit of measure always utilized. No switching. Putt in ear plugs and some
Muffs shut out the world while Relax for a little and set the rifle
Up on bags. Remove bolt and look through barrel and move rifle until target is centered in the small circle of light seen out through the muzzle. Do not move the rifle. Look through scope and Dial reticle to center of target. Look through barrel and insure target is centered in muzzle. Look through scope and insure reticle is centered in bullseye or “point of aim”
Insert bolt. Load a round. Insure that the rifle is resting in the center of the 1” dot that is the point of aim. If the rifle requires you to adjust it or “aim
It” at the target it means your body is not aiming at your target and you must adjust your body and position yourself so that witha natural cheek wild the rifle is on target without manipulation. Once you have achieved a natural point of aim squeeze the trigger and do not release it until you have come out of recoil and are back on target. Follow through.
Measure the distance of the bullet strike from the point of aim and make the necessary adjustment. Load 3 rounds. Once again mount the rifle assume a natural
Point of aim and fire the 3 rounds without ever trying to identify the bullet strikes- maintain sole focus on the point of aim. Practice good follow through. Measure from the center of that group to the point of aim and make the necessary correction. Load 1 round shoot that round into the point of aim.
This procedure works regardless of the range at which you choose to zero.
With most modern cartridges a 25 meter zero will result in another zero somewhere between 175-250 typically. It is quick and it is dirty and it can hide significant margins of error- but… it is how the ballistics work for most relevant cartridges.
I broke the post down into bore sight procedure and zero procedure realizing that AR users like yourself and all lever fun pump gun guys can’t utilize boresigjt procedure. But the zero procedure is “The Zero Procedure “ if this zero procedure doesn’t work - it means a failure point or weak link in the system has been identified. Rifle / ammo don’t shoot well together, scope doesn’t move the way it’s supposed to, shooter has fundamental issues that result in lack of repeatable performance.Good stuff and I’m trying to hold my trigger through the shot after reading similar shooting tips. I like the thought of holding until you come out of recoil! I have never heard it described this way, but gonna let that one sink in For sure!
As far as your bore sighting, I just find it easier to do the initial setup at closer ranges…..I can’t see jack at 100 anywho! Understanding how a bullet rises and falls is pretty simple, and your general analytics are spot on.…..cept it goes for ALL firearms. Nothing can defy gravity and if a round sent didn’t rise to the occasion, it would just fall down out the barrel……just poking, lol. I also don’t have any gun sled or vise type mount to lock in my rifles. I always shoot prone, but am certainly susceptible to shooter errors. Again close range to start is easier.
Apparently some people don't "paper it" at 25, they zero it at 25.That's the reason to paper it at 25 since the angles are small. But yes, DEFNITELY shoot and perform final sight in at longer distances
Here’s the problem with the 25-150 or 50-250 or whatever scaled zero you utilize- it’s “The engineered Miss”Yes but ff you zero at 200 yards, most common calibers are within 22" of drop at 400 yards. With that, you can hold at spine at 400 yards and still be in the kill zone for a whitetail. Even more true on larger animals mule deer and up. Allows for a quick reflex shot without having to figure out exact distances etc.
We have a guy in our hunt club that decided to shoot a buck at 400 yards this year. Except he has no idea what his rifle is capable of or apparently what a range finder or ballistic calculations are either.Here’s the problem with the 25-150 or 50-250 or whatever scaled zero you utilize- it’s “The engineered Miss”
Whereupon knowing he’s 22 low at 400 with his longer than 100 or 25-175 or whater zero..
Whereupon knowing he’s 22 low at 400 our hero throws up holds on the spine and casually shoots over the animal that’s an unknown distance away.
Here’s the problem with the 25-150 or 50-250 or whatever scaled zero you utilize- it’s “The engineered Miss”
Whereupon knowing he’s 22 low at 400 with his longer than 100 or 25-175 or whater zero..
Whereupon knowing he’s 22 low at 400 our hero throws up holds on the spine and casually shoots over the animal that’s an unknown distance away.
I've put a tape on a few bucks just for this reason. They are around 15" from back to chest. I figure holding at the top of back will compensate for about a 10" drop.Even if you know it is 400 and you are 22" low, I think you'd shoot about 4" below without cutting hair on most whitetails I've ever seen, if holding on the spine.