Torre87
Senior Member
Well, Santa thought I was a good boy this year and put an end to the search. I woke up to a brand new Remington Model 700 CDL SF in .270.
Well, Santa thought I was a good boy this year and put an end to the search. I woke up to a brand new Remington Model 700 CDL SF in .270.
Well, Santa thought I was a good boy this year and put an end to the search. I woke up to a brand new Remington Model 700 CDL SF in .270.
I have no experience hunting elk out West, but I have done thorough research.
I've read all the accounts of western hunters shooting elk with a .243 on up. Makes sense that they live there and have experience with the animal they shoot what they know.
I am also of the opinion that a lot of hunters are "over gunned", but that's just me.
However, if I were planning a several thousand dollar trip out West to hunt Elk and Antelope I would take the following:
1. 300 win mag - 26" barrel - muzzle brake - Nightforce SHV with mil reticle - 200 yard zero
2. Sig Kilo 2000 rangefinder -
3. Second rifle for Antelope that could double as a Elk rifle if needed - 6.5/06, or 270, or 280 - 26" barrel again - muzzle brake - Same exact scope - 200 yard zero
I would shoot a Barnes all copper or Hornady GMX or Nosler Partition. I would take a couple of hundred rounds of ammo in different containers just in case one got lost - or whatever may happen.
Best boots money could buy, and a great spotting scope.
That would be my plan.
Rainmaker, that's the best, most intelligent reply yet from someone who hasn't been there. You have given it a lot of thought.
After my first hunt with a 7mm mag. I bought a stainless synthetic .300 WM with a muzzlebreak and shot several hundred rounds through it before my next trip.
While it's true one might see an elk at 20 yards and kill it with a good old .30.30, I personally have never had a blind, dumb elk do that for me. Mine have been shot at 300 yards and beyond, and a range finder can be a great asset.
Those who think an elk isn't that tough to kill simply hasn't been in on the kill of enough elk to have formed a realistic judgement.
Why would someone buy a hunting weapon based on the advice of a person who says "I've never hunted elk, but......" Really? Your going to arm yourself for a hunt that might cost 7 to $10,000 based on that type advice??
You have some nice ideas there, but some will have a hard time working out there.
#1: 300Win mag is fine. 26” barrel is a little long and won’t give you any more real world velocity than a 24”barrel would. Add a 3”muzzle break to it and the problem worsens in two ways...your barrel will be unwieldy long for hunting timber, plus no one will want to be anywhere around you when the gun goes off. Most elk hunts do not transpire like TV hunts do, especially the long range shows. You will more than likely be working timber all morning long, up till lunch. 200 yard shot opportunities may happen, but so will 40 yard shots. When it happens, it will happen in a matter of a second or two....that’s it. “Bull! Nice one! Shoot!” Add a second to that conversation and there you have your average shot scenario. Determine if he’s a shooter, mentally calculate a rough estimate of range, what’s my holdover at that range? Where’s a rest I can shoot off of? Where is he now? There! Bang. All that took place in two seconds. That scenario has happened to me several times. Matter of fact, it’s a carbon copy of my 2014 bull, and my 2015 bull. Maybe not quite two seconds on the 14 bull....maybe two seconds at the most on the 2015.
You don’t have time to fiddle with Mil rads on a scope, twist dials, go to prone after you extend your bipod legs, check wind direction and speed, put on earmuffs that are back in your pack right now......it just doesn’t work that way in real world elk hunting.
Afternoon elk hunt where you’re perched over a nice park? Might work, but you may have to pick up and move. Now your plan might get compromised if you have to move, but basically the same thing here as in your morning hunt.
For as much $ as you’d spend on the Nightforce scope, I’d replace it with a good (as good as you can afford) hunting scope. They will gather light better and get the job done. Think: Swarovski, Schmidt & Bender, top end Leupold. Better suited for elk.
If your hunt is guided, the guide will make you remove the muzzle brake anyway. “Take off that brake before we start hunting Mr Smith....I’m not getting my eardrums busted out this week. Thank you....” Heard that everywhere I’ve hunted that had guides.
2: can’t argue about much there except the muzzle break would have to go.
Best pair of boots? Agree, but they must be broken in! Add good merino wool socks to that as well. My new boots arrive in April or May and get worn all summer long before my hunts. Imperative!
I wish you the best of luck on a future hunt.
godogs57,
My ideas are just an outline, and I would draw on the experience from hunters like yourself to tweak my plan.
The Nightforce SHV F1 4-14 x 50 is illuminated. The reticle is uncluttered and very useful. I would retain my opinion on using this scope. The center illumination is superior to whole reticle illumination IMO, and at only $1250 it's a good buy - and can be caught on sale sometimes.
The mil reticle would function just like a duplex at any range just like you recommended; however, if a perfect scenario presented itself at 400 yards and I had time to dial for distance at least I have that option.
I wouldn't take a bipod - unneeded weight when I could just use my backpack to rest the rifle on if needed.
If a good spotting scope isn't needed, I would still plan to take a great set of binos.
I'd cancel the muzzle brake based on your recommendation. I would practice with it, and then zero without it if needed prior to the hunt.
I'd keep the 26" barrel on the antelope rifle and ditch the brake as you recommended.
I'm kinda up in the air on 24" vs 26" barrel on the magnum. I think a properly balanced and fitted rifle is way more important in handling than 2" of barrel.
Which is why in the beginning I stated a longer barrel. I would need a custom or semi-custom rifle. A 22" off-the-shelf sporter just won't do.
I bet if I go out there with what I think is the "best prepared plan" I would come back with ideas to do something different the next time around.
I have hunted Unit 77 in Colorado many years outside of Pagosa Springs. Taken elk with .270 150gr. Used to use .300WinMag all I use now is .270, 150 gr. elk, 130 gr. deer.Good afternoon everyone.
I am looking into a new rifle for hunting out west. I am in between the .270 and .308. After researching, I am now leading more toward the .270 due to the flatness and speed.
My question is, will a .270 be a good idea for elk? I know it is plenty for the antelope. I am wanting to see what the general consensus is on these two calibers and which you would pick.
Every elk I have taken has been with a 270, just use a good bullet, I prefer something from Hornady, Nosler. I have never had a bull or cow go further then 50 yards after shot, quite a few dropped where they stood. It would be ideal for antelope also, go to a flatter shooting bullet of course. Best advice is to shoot, and shoot some more, 100- 300 yards, or more if you feel qualified for the shot. Buy the best scope and bino's you can afford.Good afternoon everyone.
I am looking into a new rifle for hunting out west. I am in between the .270 and .308. After researching, I am now leading more toward the .270 due to the flatness and speed.
My question is, will a .270 be a good idea for elk? I know it is plenty for the antelope. I am wanting to see what the general consensus is on these two calibers and which you would pick.
Hard to beat the 300 WSM great caliber.