Did you shoot anything today ?

chuckdog

Senior Member
I chono’d some of my wife’s 125gr HP from her 642 yesterday. They’re coming in at 800 plus or minus fps. I had hoped for a bit higher velocities, but comfortable shooting made me expect less.

She shoots this load quite well, so I ain’t tinkering with it.

I put a few midrange 158gr .357 rounds through the chronograph too. All 12 rounds hovered in the 1150 fps range. I didn't write anything down, but the ES was very low.

The 4" GP had been warmed up with some of the wife's .38's and only got about another 100 fps out of them than the Smith.

The low spread may be more common than I remember, but I’m impressed with the consistency. Of course these number mean little if it wasn't hitting the target.

I shot a couple of match .22lr through it at the end of the run and both registered right at 1050 fps. Seems to be some truth in advertising in the .22 rimfire community!
 
Thread starter #264
I have had guns with "barn door" springs description. I have upgraded the springs in several Taurus revolvers with the wilson's. Really makes an improvement over factory. But as Chuck did, you have to check for reliability. In my 607, it now has an awesome double action pull. In the 605 and 85 they are nice also. I tried the Wilson's in the 941 (22mag) and it is very unreliable. It will fire in single action but is hit and miss in double. Seems rimfires takes a harder hit to ignite, so that gun sits with the factory springs. I polished everything in it I could, action is smooth as silk, but still has the "barn door" springs in it.

Always keep an extra 9V battery for the chronograph. The Caldwell has room for an extra in the battery compartment. Inevitably, you will leave it on and the battery will be dead when you get to the range (assuming it doesn't have an auto off feature), or just die on it's own.

Chronographs make liars out of a lot of people... Folks will read the load data and assume they are getting that velocity in their gun, not considering barrel length and other factors. Kind of reminds me of those added horsepower gadgets for an automobile. Someone will put 10 items that "add" 20 hp to your car, they add them all up and say that is what they are getting. It don't work that way.

Rosewood

Mighty glad you mentioned this spring kit.


Springs arrived today.

Gonna get after when I get some time.






Dang things were a bargain.....except I had to add a magazine in order to feel better about the shipping cost. :rofl:












The lightest trigger reset spring would be great, it didn't come close to working.

The hammer spring is solid. I wasn't concerned with ignition as mush as trigger reset under firing conditions. Inexpensive improvement, but it ain't custom trigger like at all.

You will need something like a tiny hex wrench or paper clip to contain the hammer spring for removal.

Roger that.


Thanks.
 

chuckdog

Senior Member
Mighty glad you mentioned this spring kit.


Springs arrived today.

Gonna get after when I get some time.






Dang things were a bargain.....except I had to add a magazine in order to feel better about the shipping cost. :rofl:















Roger that.


Thanks.

A word or two of caution.

I use a stiff nylon/plastic rod (a punch) moving it from top to bottom of the grip/mainspring opening lifting ever so slowly to encourage the side plate off. I've been inside a pile of S&W's and not had an issue with this method. Just remember there are small protrusions at the top securing the plate.

Though I've never had it occur, it has been said of the alloy frames to keep testing with the side plate removed to a minimum.

Bottom line, after installing the 14lb trigger and replacement hammer spring I recommend squeezing the side plate back in place before dry firing.

This is a bit more troublesome with the hammerless 42 series, but I believe it's worth it.

I safely dry fired my wife's several times before reinstalling the screws.

I know, I'm worse than any "Old Woman" worrying about what can go wrong!

I reckon I wear it with pride...

Hope this helps.
 
Thread starter #266
A word or two of caution.

I use a stiff nylon/plastic rod (a punch) moving it from top to bottom of the grip/mainspring opening lifting ever so slowly to encourage the side plate off. I've been inside a pile of S&W's and not had an issue with this method. Just remember there are small protrusions at the top securing the plate.

Though I've never had it occur, it has been said of the alloy frames to keep testing with the side plate removed to a minimum.

Bottom line, after installing the 14lb trigger and replacement hammer spring I recommend squeezing the side plate back in place before dry firing.

This is a bit more troublesome with the hammerless 42 series, but I believe it's worth it.

I safely dry fired my wife's several times before reinstalling the screws.

I know, I'm worse than any "Old Woman" worrying about what can go wrong!

I reckon I wear it with pride...

Hope this helps.
Thank you. Huge thanks.

I will refer back to this thread when I get after it. (y)
 
After doing a little work on the lease this afternoon I shot my .54 cal t/c renegade.
Now I need to find some more #11 percussion caps—-
 

chuckdog

Senior Member
It's in my Valentine's Day thread, but I thought I would post this here too.

Had an opportunity to shoot the Ruger American Predator Friday.

I was under dressed for the occasion. It looked much warmer than it felt at Little River. The cold wind cut right through T and long sleeve over shirt.

I hadn't taken any time to prepare any specific loads to test the carbine, so I put some together with components I had ready to load.

I had two pieces of primed Lake City pull down brass that I had accidentally allowed to get submersed in acetone while removing the tar like waterproofing from the neck. I had read that acetone didn't ruin primers so here was my chance to find out.

I loaded the two with 45.5grs of Varget and 150gr Nosler Ballistic Tips @ 2.795" for reliable feed due to the magazine's limitation.

I had six pieces of commercial brass that I had pulled the previous loads from because they were unidentified. I had FL sized without depriming and uniformed the length at 2.005". I put the same 45.5gr charge of Varget behind some Speer 165gr boat tail soft points @2.795 OAL.

No dope on either load, just pulled it out of the air.

Cleaning rod in tow here we go.

From an Uncle Bud's bull bag I took one shot at 50yds with the 150's to get it near zero. Acetone doesn't seem to harm primers!

The picture below show my last three shots at 100 yds. The scope @ 12X.

I cleaned between the first few rounds, but the cold took its toll on my patience. My truck thermometer displayed 43° but it felt much colder in the windy shade. When my cold hands wouldn't hardly pull the patch through the eye of the jag, I knew it was time to go.

May have been the cold fingers, but I didn't notice any creep while shooting. This little carbine shows real promise! Regardless of model or caliber I don't think I've ever had a Ruger centerfire rifle do better. If you factor in the out of nowhere loads, the wind, and my self inflicted discomfort this is quite good for a first outing.

Ruger 2 (2).jpg
 
It's in my Valentine's Day thread, but I thought I would post this here too.

Had an opportunity to shoot the Ruger American Predator Friday.

I was under dressed for the occasion. It looked much warmer than it felt at Little River. The cold wind cut right through T and long sleeve over shirt.

I hadn't taken any time to prepare any specific loads to test the carbine, so I put some together with components I had ready to load.

I had two pieces of primed Lake City pull down brass that I had accidentally allowed to get submersed in acetone while removing the tar like waterproofing from the neck. I had read that acetone didn't ruin primers so here was my chance to find out.

I loaded the two with 45.5grs of Varget and 150gr Nosler Ballistic Tips @ 2.795" for reliable feed due to the magazine's limitation.

I had six pieces of commercial brass that I had pulled the previous loads from because they were unidentified. I had FL sized without depriming and uniformed the length at 2.005". I put the same 45.5gr charge of Varget behind some Speer 165gr boat tail soft points @2.795 OAL.

No dope on either load, just pulled it out of the air.

Cleaning rod in tow here we go.

From an Uncle Bud's bull bag I took one shot at 50yds with the 150's to get it near zero. Acetone doesn't seem to harm primers!

The picture below show my last three shots at 100 yds. The scope @ 12X.

I cleaned between the first few rounds, but the cold took its toll on my patience. My truck thermometer displayed 43° but it felt much colder in the windy shade. When my cold hands wouldn't hardly pull the patch through the eye of the jag, I knew it was time to go.

May have been the cold fingers, but I didn't notice any creep while shooting. This little carbine shows real promise! Regardless of model or caliber I don't think I've ever had a Ruger centerfire rifle do better. If you factor in the out of nowhere loads, the wind, and my self inflicted discomfort this is quite good for a first outing.

View attachment 1067492
I’ve got the American Predator carbine in .308 and it’s one of the most accurate rifles I have. I put a .450 bushmaster magazine in it and have zero feed issues.
 

chuckdog

Senior Member
I’ve got the American Predator carbine in .308 and it’s one of the most accurate rifles I have. I put a .450 bushmaster magazine in it and have zero feed issues.

What issue(s) were you experiencing?

I have only noticed that dropping one in from the top ain't too likely to load smoothly. It seems to operate more like a controlled round feed from the magazine.

I'm no proponent of detachable mags on a hunting rifle to start with. I much prefer a floorplate or blind mag. More times than I like to admit I have arrived at the hunting land only to discover the magazine didn't make the trip! (Tikka T3 at least twice)

That said, with maybe a total of 10 function cycled when assembling the ammo and what few I shot Friday, so far if I load three in the mag it has cycled without issue.

I just read where the .308's were shipped with 4 round mags. Mine is marked something like .308/.243 Multi Cal, but it only holds 3 rounds. I wonder if this is Ruger's answer to past magazine/feed issues?

It loads more like a typical pistol mag. Start in at the front of the magazine and slide the round back as you push down.
 

Nimrod71

Senior Member
I am getting ready for and afternoon of shooting fun. My shooting friends came over last night and we planned up a shooting party today. All this rain we have had has got our trigger fingers itching. I changed scopes on my 22-250 last week, I think my old Burris has some issues, so I put a Vortex on to check the scope and rifle. From trip to trip the impact area would change, good grouping but just in the wrong place. I will also be shooting my Rem 6 mm that I have been working on for over a year. Some days it is right on target on others is is a little off, I don't think its the rifle. In fact I think the rifle can shoot a look better, I just can't hold it like I use too, age really works on the body. I will let you know todays results when we get back. Ya'll have fun today.
 

Nimrod71

Senior Member
Well I'm back. We had a great time today. It was a little cool but we could shoot without worrying about the barrels over heating. As I have said I changed the scope on the 22-250 and I needed to get it sighted in. I throw together a load of 33.2 gr. of 2520 and 55 gr. Dogtown bullets for a cheap sight in. First I placed by target at 25 yards to help get the scope on the paper. This scope had been on another rifle so it was off the factory center. I fired the first shot, no hole to be seen. I fired another round, no hole. I pulled the bolt out and looked down the bore. when I found the target and looked back though the scope it was off about 5 inches high and 4 inches to the left. No problem the Vortex scope has target turrets and 1/8 adjustments. I move the top turret down 5 inches and the side over 5 inches. Replaced bolt and fired again. No hole, I fired again No hole What the heck is wrong? I pulled the bolt again and looked down the bore. Lined up the target, I looked back through the scope, Still of the paper. Now what the Heck? We talked the problem over, not one answer that sounded right. Then like a lighten bolt it hit me, the turrets are 1/8 at 100 yds, the target is at 25. You need more adjustments. This time I didn't bother with the numbers I just set the rifle up on the bags lined up the bore with the target and went to turning the turrets. It worked, next shot on one inch low at 25 yds. I set up a target at 100 yds., fired a round. A hole appeared about 2 inches high, I fired another round, another hole about an 1/8 inch from the first. Both holes were directly above the target dot. I moved the turret down two inches and fired again, hole inside of dime circle. I fired again, hole center of dime circle. I fired again, hole half inside of first hole. The 250 is sighted in and ready to go.

I am impressed with the load because it is a great shooting load made with a cheap powder and cheap bullet.

Now the 6 mm story. Todays bullets are Sierra 70 gr. Match Kings. Ten loaded with IMR 4064 and Ten loaded with IMR 4895. I shot 5 of the 4064 first. The five shot group covered about and inch. I let the barrel cool down for 15 minutes, then fired the other five 4064 rounds. Just about the same size group. Another 15 minute cool down. I fired the first 4895, hole center of dot. I fired second round, no hole to be seen. What happened? I fired another round, hole about 1/8 inch from first hole. I fired another round, hole touching third round hole. I fired fifth round, hole about 1/4 inch about first hole. I walked down to check target and find second shot location. I found the second shot and first shot made one big hole. All shots within a dime size dot and two making one hole. I was happy and pleased with my rifle and my shooting.

Another good day at the range with my friends. Oh, they shot good too. Two of them shot a lot better groups than I did, but their rifles and scopes cost a lot more than mine.
 

chuckdog

Senior Member
Well I'm back. We had a great time today. It was a little cool but we could shoot without worrying about the barrels over heating. As I have said I changed the scope on the 22-250 and I needed to get it sighted in. I throw together a load of 33.2 gr. of 2520 and 55 gr. Dogtown bullets for a cheap sight in. First I placed by target at 25 yards to help get the scope on the paper. This scope had been on another rifle so it was off the factory center. I fired the first shot, no hole to be seen. I fired another round, no hole. I pulled the bolt out and looked down the bore. when I found the target and looked back though the scope it was off about 5 inches high and 4 inches to the left. No problem the Vortex scope has target turrets and 1/8 adjustments. I move the top turret down 5 inches and the side over 5 inches. Replaced bolt and fired again. No hole, I fired again No hole What the heck is wrong? I pulled the bolt again and looked down the bore. Lined up the target, I looked back through the scope, Still of the paper. Now what the Heck? We talked the problem over, not one answer that sounded right. Then like a lighten bolt it hit me, the turrets are 1/8 at 100 yds, the target is at 25. You need more adjustments. This time I didn't bother with the numbers I just set the rifle up on the bags lined up the bore with the target and went to turning the turrets. It worked, next shot on one inch low at 25 yds. I set up a target at 100 yds., fired a round. A hole appeared about 2 inches high, I fired another round, another hole about an 1/8 inch from the first. Both holes were directly above the target dot. I moved the turret down two inches and fired again, hole inside of dime circle. I fired again, hole center of dime circle. I fired again, hole half inside of first hole. The 250 is sighted in and ready to go.

I am impressed with the load because it is a great shooting load made with a cheap powder and cheap bullet.

Now the 6 mm story. Todays bullets are Sierra 70 gr. Match Kings. Ten loaded with IMR 4064 and Ten loaded with IMR 4895. I shot 5 of the 4064 first. The five shot group covered about and inch. I let the barrel cool down for 15 minutes, then fired the other five 4064 rounds. Just about the same size group. Another 15 minute cool down. I fired the first 4895, hole center of dot. I fired second round, no hole to be seen. What happened? I fired another round, hole about 1/8 inch from first hole. I fired another round, hole touching third round hole. I fired fifth round, hole about 1/4 inch about first hole. I walked down to check target and find second shot location. I found the second shot and first shot made one big hole. All shots within a dime size dot and two making one hole. I was happy and pleased with my rifle and my shooting.

Another good day at the range with my friends. Oh, they shot good too. Two of them shot a lot better groups than I did, but their rifles and scopes cost a lot more than mine.

Makes up for a lot of frustrating days.

Glad to see you have both shooting.

Shooting great cheap is even better!
 
i kinda did that the other day...I called for the adjustment in MOA...but the scope moves in Mils...smh

just remember next time you are trying to tighten the 4895 load to foul it with 10 shots of 4064 1st ;)
 
Thread starter #275
Mighty gratifying range trip there @Nimrod71

Sounds like you had a super day and ended with the confidence of having your rifles dialed in nicely. (y)
 
What issue(s) were you experiencing?

I have only noticed that dropping one in from the top ain't too likely to load smoothly. It seems to operate more like a controlled round feed from the magazine.

I'm no proponent of detachable mags on a hunting rifle to start with. I much prefer a floorplate or blind mag. More times than I like to admit I have arrived at the hunting land only to discover the magazine didn't make the trip! (Tikka T3 at least twice)

That said, with maybe a total of 10 function cycled when assembling the ammo and what few I shot Friday, so far if I load three in the mag it has cycled without issue.

I just read where the .308's were shipped with 4 round mags. Mine is marked something like .308/.243 Multi Cal, but it only holds 3 rounds. I wonder if this is Ruger's answer to past magazine/feed issues?

It loads more like a typical pistol mag. Start in at the front of the magazine and slide the round back as you push down.
With the factory supplied magazine the rifle wouldn’t hardly feed well at all. I had to work the bolt back and forth to chamber a round. It was like the angle from the top of the mag to the chamber was to great. There is a lot of info on these magazine feed issues on line. The .450 bushmaster mag makes them basically a straight shot from magazine to to chamber.
The .450 mag will only hold 3 rounds I believe but is a more conventional type magazine.
 

Attachments

chuckdog

Senior Member
With the factory supplied magazine the rifle wouldn’t hardly feed well at all. I had to work the bolt back and forth to chamber a round. It was like the angle from the top of the mag to the chamber was to great. There is a lot of info on these magazine feed issues on line. The .450 bushmaster mag makes them basically a straight shot from magazine to to chamber.
The .450 mag will only hold 3 rounds I believe but is a more conventional type magazine.

I'll try to get a pic up of mine. From your description it sounds like Ruger followed the public's response and changed mags. Mine is a 3 round staggered.

Thanks for letting me know.

I changed the scope on mine last night. I ended up going with what I had on hand. I left the factory P rail and used Warne Maxima Vertical rings to mount a Zeiss 3X9.

It feels a lot better. I loaded a box of the 165gr Speer to get it zero'd again.
 
I'll try to get a pic up of mine. From your description it sounds like Ruger followed the public's response and changed mags. Mine is a 3 round staggered.

Thanks for letting me know.

I changed the scope on mine last night. I ended up going with what I had on hand. I left the factory P rail and used Warne Maxima Vertical rings to mount a Zeiss 3X9.

It feels a lot better. I loaded a box of the 165gr Speer to get it zero'd again.
Excellent choice of scope sir. Mine has a Zeiss 3x9 on it as well. I am really happy with it. Good luck on the range!!
 

chuckdog

Senior Member
I shot the Predator with the newly mounted scope Wednesday at lunch.

I was shooting off my portable front rest and a bag at the rear. I used the Speer 165gr BTSP, new Winchester brass, CCI 200 primers, and 45.5gr of Varget. The rounds appear long in the pics, but fit and feed fine in the mag @2.800".

To me the rifle looks and feels a lot better with the Zeiss and Warne rings.

I also have a side and top view of the 3rd staggered mag that mine came with.

Either the barrel took a couple of fouling shots, the scope a couple of shots to settle in, or I was sliding the rifle a bit on the leather rest. As noted on the target pic the first shot is at the top, 3" above POA. I moved the elevation down 4 clicks and shot the next three.

I had two appointments to keep so that was all I was able to shoot.

I'm really pleased with this little Ruger.



Ruger Conquest.jpg


MagazineTop (2).jpg

MagazineSide (2).jpg



Conquest Target (2) Annotated.jpg
 
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